Honeywell Accenta Mini – Tamper Fault Lockout Problem

[kwano888]

Hi all,

Newbie looking for some assistance and feedback please

Just had my second floor 2 Bed flat refurbished and upgrading my alarm system in the process. New cables have been installed. Trying to install the system and save a few pennies whilst gaining some knowledge for future projects. It’s just a basic system, 1 door contact and 2 PIR’s.

The hardware :

Honeywell Accenta Mini G4 with LCD remote keypad

TEXECOM Odyssey external bell box

1 x front door contact

2 x PIR’s (Hall and kitchen)

I am not concerned with Tampers being a domestic property on the second floor so I have not connected any of the Tampers on both the PIR’s and door contact ( I have left the original links in PA and TAMP on the panel)

I have a couple of known issues

1)      The strobe doesn’t work on test (Bell sound test works)

2)      I am getting Tamper Fault Lockout displayed on the LCD keypad ?

I would upload pics but cannot yet being new to the forum.

The wiring on the Texecom Odyssey panel :

RED – A – 12 v – Positive permanent supply

WHITE – B – BELL – Negative applied output to activate siren

GREEN – C – TAMP – Negative removed on tamper input

BLACK – D – ov Permanent negative supply

YELLOW – S – Strobe – Negative applied output to activate siren.

The wiring on the Accenta panel for the external siren side of things :

YELLOW connected to ‘–‘ (minus) marked STROBE

GREEN connected to ‘T’

WHITE connected to ‘A’

RED connected to ‘D’ (positive)

BLACK connected to ‘B’ (negative)

I am not sure if this is 100% correct as the manual refers to a different board wiring layout.

I am also tempted to bypass the Tamper on the external bell box as its high up on the second floor but I am not sure whats the best way in doing this ?

The other possibility could be a wiring fault with the remote keypad. I have wired this as follows :

KEYPAD & ACCENTA BOARD (wired straight through)

BLUE  - COMMS

YELLOW – SOUND

RED  - +13V

BLACK – 0V

GREEN – TAMPER

WHITE – TAMPER

Thanks in advance !

 

[Richard-the-Ninth]

Does your siren have a jumper with positions scb sab?

It should be on SAB

 

[kwano888]

Yes I've checked the photo which I took of the wiring and the jumper is on SAB.

 

[Richard-the-Ninth]

If your panel is showing tamper fault and the strobe does not work, I would ask what is the voltage at the bell?

I am guessing the voltage is wrong because of a blown fuse.

 

[kwano888]

Ok had a quick look today.

I linked 'T - A' connections on the Accenta panel for the external siren part of the board. The Tamper Fault Lockout error went away and the LCD displayed  * System Reset * which I understand is the correct display. It appears the problem looks like something with the external bell ?

 

[Richard-the-Ninth]

As I said, what is the voltage at the bell?

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

The strobe probably needs a + connection  either linked to the bell + in the sounder or by using the 6th core in the cable and connecting to + at the panel.

You obviously have an open tamper circuit on the external sounder. The cable could be damaged or not correctly terminated but my bet would be on the tamper switch not adjusted correctly between the backplate,wall and cover. By linking T & A  you have bypassed the tamper. Do you also still have the other cables connected in to those terminals ?

 

[Richard-the-Ninth]

I don't agree.

External bells / sirens have been working for years using only 5 cores, no need for the 6th wire to be connected. There is a possibility its the sounder tamper, but if the "hold off" voltage at the sounder is wrong it will never work properly, (and neither will the strobe) which is why I want to know what the voltage is at the sounder.

 

[kwano888]

Hello,

Not had chance to check the voltage at the bell as it's a little more effort getting the ladders up and the weather hasn't been great. I will, as soon as the opportunity arises. Sorry if its stupid question, I assume I should test this with the Accenta panel powered up. Also, all the fuses looks good in the panel.

When I linked connections 'T & A' I did not have any other cables connected (previously GREEN & WHITE). Possibly there could be damaged cabling. Whilst high up installing the external siren I did double/triple check all the connections and tamper switch to ensure it was working properly avoiding the need to get the ladders back out and up again !

Btw if there possibly is damaged cabling is there a workaround ? I suppose I do have the 6th spare cable not being used.

 

[Sharpend]

You will need to check the cores for continuity, if you are fortunate to have only one damaged core then as you say use the sixth. Failing that you'd have to find where it's damaged and either repair or replace.

 

[kwano888]

What's the best method for checking continuity over long runs given the distance between the external siren and the panel.

 

[kerching]

What's the best method for checking continuity over long runs given the distance between the external siren and the panel.

Take a guess at which single core may be ok

Connect this to one of the othe r 5 cables at one end and test for continuity across this pair at the other end

Do this across all four other cores, making sure that they are disconnected from the bell and the panel

It is a lot easier to do than to attempt to put into writing

 

[Sharpend]

Disconnect from panel and at bell box, now visualise a loop from the panel to bell box and back to panel, this is what you are trying to achieve. So as Kerching has stated, join two ends together at bell box test at panel. Do for each of the cores.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

I don't agree.

External bells / sirens have been working for years using only 5 cores, no need for the 6th wire to be connected. There is a possibility its the sounder tamper, but if the "hold off" voltage at the sounder is wrong it will never work properly, (and neither will the strobe) which is why I want to know what the voltage is at the sounder.

I didnt say the 6th core had to be used . I gave the option that it could or link the + at the sounder as  there has been no + connection made to the strobe.

However, I have since looked at the instructions and note there is an internal factory link so this is not needed. The instructions also reminded me the Odyssey has a particular method of powering up first time and if this is not followed exactly  you can get these problems, i know because i have been there O)   I suggest you have another read through the instructions regarding powering up for the first time.  I am not sure how to 'reset' this once done though.

 

[Robert Horncastle]

By your connections for bell u have the o volts & the bell trigger the wrong way round swap the A & B wires around in panel then u will have a 0 volts returning on your'e tamper return clearing the tamper fault as for strobe it is normally neg applied could be jumper not set to neg or u have a core on cable to strobe down.

 

[kwano888]

Thanks guys for the advice for testing for continuity. Yes I think I've got my head around it !

Thank also Robert, I will try swapping the A & B wires and hopefully that will fix it !

 

[kwano888]

By your connections for bell u have the o volts & the bell trigger the wrong way round swap the A & B wires around in panel then u will have a 0 volts returning on your'e tamper return clearing the tamper fault as for strobe it is normally neg applied could be jumper not set to neg or u have a core on cable to strobe down.

BIG thank you to Robert ! Swapped both wires which did the trick and completely fixed both issues of Tamper Lockout and strobe light. Must have been linked. The strobe flashes nicely ! Can't really tell about the flashing LED's so will have look at night.

Whilst setting up the system I am not sure what is 'Inhibit Zones' ? I am confused as what it does. The manual says :

"This is a zone which, on setting the panel, allows access to the entry/exit zone. However, if the panel is set and a time inhibited zone is triggered before an entry/exit timed zone then an alarm will be generated immediately."

Can anyone explain in simple terms ?

The system seems to work fine without making any changes to this option.

Thanks again Robert. Cheers !

 

[kerching]

Front door as ENTRY EXIT

hallway PIR as inhibit

Open front door ...timer starts BUT hallway PIR is inhibited or locked out so you can get to keypad to stop alarm

Make hole in front door, so door is not opened, entry exit timer will not start as it has not been initiated by door opening, hallway PIR sets alarm off as it has not been INHIBITED by the entry exit timer

Does that make sense?

 

[kwano888]

Front door as ENTRY EXIT

hallway PIR as inhibit

Open front door ...timer starts BUT hallway PIR is inhibited or locked out so you can get to keypad to stop alarm

Make hole in front door, so door is not opened, entry exit timer will not start as it has not been initiated by door opening, hallway PIR sets alarm off as it has not been INHIBITED by the entry exit timer

Does that make sense?

Yes I think I understand what you mean.

My setup is exactly the same, I do have a door contact as first point of entry and a PIR in the hallway. So I need to inhibit the hallway PIR.

Basically, when the Alarm is set if the hallway PIR is triggered without the door contact being triggered first then the Alarm will be generated. 

I think I got how it works now !