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Is that right?!
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<blockquote data-quote="Evans Electric" data-source="post: 479848" data-attributes="member: 1408"><p>You'd need to know the length of the run to work out the volt drop .</p><p></p><p>Then decide on the design current for the garage / man cave . </p><p></p><p>The stuff you describe would give a design current of about 6A say , so a 4mm SWA is looking OK but there may be heating to include . </p><p></p><p>Your guy would need to reduce the size of the breaker to anything between 10A 16A or 20A say. </p><p></p><p>If he fits an RCD you could just wire to a couple of plugs and a 3A spur off to a light . In my opinion a DP isolator should be fitted at the house to isolate sub feeds leaving the building . </p><p></p><p>So to re-cap you need to start with the design load and the length of run and do the sums . The breaker that you worried about needs to be a size that protects the cable. Nothing wrong with jointing a cable that is already there . Why is it condemned ? </p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Evans Electric, post: 479848, member: 1408"] You'd need to know the length of the run to work out the volt drop . Then decide on the design current for the garage / man cave . The stuff you describe would give a design current of about 6A say , so a 4mm SWA is looking OK but there may be heating to include . Your guy would need to reduce the size of the breaker to anything between 10A 16A or 20A say. If he fits an RCD you could just wire to a couple of plugs and a 3A spur off to a light . In my opinion a DP isolator should be fitted at the house to isolate sub feeds leaving the building . So to re-cap you need to start with the design load and the length of run and do the sums . The breaker that you worried about needs to be a size that protects the cable. Nothing wrong with jointing a cable that is already there . Why is it condemned ? [/QUOTE]
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