Kitchen Ventilation

[jase1976]

I have a small kitchen with only one external wall. There is a door to the left of the wall and a window in the middle - and my cooker sits between the two.

The cooker has its own grill at the top and I've been told not to use a extractor hood with this type, so have bought an exhaust fan.

I have 2 questions:

1) Where on the wall would be the bsest place to put the fan.

2) I would like to wire it myself, but don't understand the wiring diagram.

Could someone walk me through the follwoing diagram (ie; full paths of each wire including light switch and ceiling rose).

Rest assured the work will be inspected, but I like to get involved.

Diagram is:

Many thanks in anticipation of your help!

 

[sparkytim]

This is a timer over run type Fan for bathrooms.

You would not usually need the timed over run facility in a kitchen.

How are you going to switch it on and off?

 

[ProDave]

What you really want is a cooker HOOD that sits over the cooker and extracts all the fumes, rather than a simple extract fan.

 

[Doc Hudson]

What you really want is a cooker HOOD that sits over the cooker and extracts all the fumes, rather than a simple extract fan.

Hello ProDave, I think you miss read that Jase1976 pointed out, that it is a standalone cooker with a grill mounted at the top, (typically eye-level), thus would block the air-flow to any cooker hood. Welcome to the forum Jase.

Doc H.

The cooker has its own grill at the top and I've been told not to use a extractor hood with this type, so have bought an exhaust fan.

 

[Doc Hudson]

Hello Jase, as Sparkytim said, we would need to know how you intend to switch this on/off, e.g. with lights, or separate independent switch?

Doc H.

 

[matt.leung]

i would take a live feed from the lighting circuit, run it straight to the isolation double pole switch with is located above the kitchen door frame (outside of the kitchen) then run it so a FCU located somewhere in the kitchen at socket level (this is my on/off switch) then to the fan. job done.

OK there is a lot of chasing involved but this is one option that i would do...

 

[batty]

What ever you do will need to be notified as it comes under the part p.

 

[ElectekAir]

If you are putting a FSU in the kitchen then i dont see the need for an Isolator outside.

Just spur the FSU off the kitchen ring then connect fan to it

(you may need to bridge the L and SL at the fan)

and like said already part P

 

[Doc Hudson]

As ElectekAir said probably best to ignore the timer feature of the fan, just use as a simple manual on/off control. As most extractor hoods don't have any timer function, you just turn them off when you are finished.

Doc H.

 

[jase1976]

What an amazing response - thanks to all.

Regarding the switching on/off. I'm not fussed really - the timer I can do without, but ideally I'd like the power to come on with the lights - and then operate it by its own built in pullcord switch.

Also - sorry to go over it again, but whereupon the wall would you recommend placing the fan? Would over the cooker as high as possible be dangerous? The replacement air would come from an internal door on the opposite side of the room.

Many thanks once again all.

 

[matt.leung]

u need to fit the fan on an an external wall indoors to get the flow of air... fitting it on an internal wall indoors with not give u air flow for the fan.

 

[Doc Hudson]

Location may be limited by external drainpipes down walls, or an acceptable style of outlet vent i.e. front facing wall may be bit more critical of appearance. As near to cooker as practical would be good, but remember without a hood many of the cooking smells will remain in the room.

Doc H.

 

[jase1976]

Thanks again guys.

Just to clarify then:

1) If I put the fan directly above the cooker at ceiling height that will be okay? If I did that, the external vent would be in my back yard so there's no issues there.

2) Assuming I wanted to wire it so it oparated via its own switch with no timer and no humidistat, can someone write down the wiring in this kind of format for each:

Live (Ceiling Rose) > DP Switch > LH (Fan)

Also, which DP switch should I use to wall mount?

One more thing. In the event of there being no earth in the lighting circuit, will I have to go the fused spur route?

Many thanks in advance.

 

[ElectekAir]

Like i said before i would simply install a fused spur next to a socket ( to get power from) then chase up to the fan.

I however would not celing mount the fan over the oven because you will have a problem with fat and other Cr*p dripping from it in time, would be best to be wall mounted.

Hope this helps

 

[ianmacd]

I think he meant wall mounted just above the cooker not in the ceiling. How are you going to notify LABC about this work?

 

[jase1976]

I think he meant wall mounted just above the cooker not in the ceiling. How are you going to notify LABC about this work?

If I'm honest, I'm not mad keen on chasing out the wall and having to redecorate right now - especially as the nearest socket is at least 2 metres away from the proposed fan installation.

I guess my plan is as follows:

1. Spur from socket on adjacent wall.
   
2. Lay trunking under cupboards until the corner.
   
3. Feed the wire through the gap in the corner behind the cupboards.
   
4. More trunking from top of cupboards to ceiling, round the corner and straight to the fan along the top of the wall.
   
5. install fan
   
6. leave both ends of wire disconnected and trunking cover off.
   
7. Call Part P qualified sparky to complete the job & make connections.
   

If you see any problem with that, I'd better know now before I start. Any idea how much that would cost me (ball park figure - what would you charge?)

Thanks again in advance.

 

[ElectekAir]

If I'm honest, I'm not mad keen on chasing out the wall and having to redecorate right now - especially as the nearest socket is at least 2 metres away from the proposed fan installation.I guess my plan is as follows:

1. Spur from socket on adjacent wall.
   
2. Lay trunking under cupboards until the corner.
   
3. Feed the wire through the gap in the corner behind the cupboards.
   
4. More trunking from top of cupboards to ceiling, round the corner and straight to the fan along the top of the wall.
   
5. install fan
   
6. leave both ends of wire disconnected and trunking cover off.
   
7. Call Part P qualified sparky to complete the job & make connections.
   

If you see any problem with that, I'd better know now before I start. Any idea how much that would cost me (ball park figure - what would you charge?)

Thanks again in advance.

To be honest mate i would not do it for you as part P is self Certification and it is 90% your work and not mine!

Best thing to do is get a qualified spark to quote it for you and suggest what you have said here if he is happy with it then fine.

He may then let you run the trunking and get the kit to save a Little money

 

[green-hornet]

I think he meant wall mounted just above the cooker not in the ceiling. How are you going to notify LABC about this work?

Probably the same way builders do, but at least this guy has had some very good advise which he will follow, which is more than the general handyman come builder would do.

Just take a look at the black museum at what the pro's do

I have been to a job this week where a previous electrician told the clients they needed a Cu change and rcd protection before he could do the job they wanted.

The job? take electric cooker out, put new electric cooker in!

I told them they would need a full rewire, new roof, the drains will need lifting and building control would need to know that the 75m sattalite dish would need to be placed in next doors yard.

Seriously though any new circuit should be reported to labc, because it comes under part p of the building regulations due to the fact that the kitchen is classed as a special location.

Also any circuit installed should be tested as per BS 7671:2008 the wiring regulations.

 

[steptoe]

in all honesty,

and I think we all know,

jase1976 isnt going to notify this, but at least he is asking for advice as to how to do it right.

sometimes for things like this, (I know I do), we need to climb down and just try get stuff done right(even if its not to the letter), done safe is sometimes better than done legal,

had a look at the kitchen fitters recently have we?

 

[green-hornet]

I have to agree with you and as this is a forum for all I think doing the job right is better than letting some odd job man do it for a fee and do it wrong.