light question

[jackfrosty]

Hi

Ive changed a consumer unit and they have metal chandelers in the living room which are connected to the wires that come through the ceiling with connector blocks. Then the light screws backup over these wires and connector blocks, is this ok if the assessor decides to drop the light down?

Also in the bathroom there is a bathroom light and has no earth wire connected i guess because it is class2 but there is no earth wire in sight is this ok? all other lightings obviously have earths

Cheers for all help

 

[Apache]

Chandelier you could whack the connector strip in a chock box?

If bathroom light class 2 then no need for earth, so long as you are sure it's class 2. Assume if you've changed CU it's all on a RCD anyways?

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

HiIve changed a consumer unit and they have metal chandelers in the living room which are connected to the wires that come through the ceiling with connector blocks. Then the light screws backup over these wires and connector blocks, is this ok if the assessor decides to drop the light down?

Also in the bathroom there is a bathroom light and has no earth wire connected i guess because it is class2 but there is no earth wire in sight is this ok? all other lightings obviously have earths

Cheers for all help

The fancy decorative chandeliers will probably be avoided like the plague by you assessor...

Too much hassle and time consuming...

(he's still got a home to go to and has to get all his appointments done that day!)

So as long as you are satisfied the joints are electrically and mechanically sound and the metal bits are earthed and live bits insulated..

I wouldn't worry too much.

Bathroom light:

Is it actually class2..

or are you assuming its class2 because you cant find an earth wire...

Generally with Class2 fittings it is good practice to still terminate and unused earth wire into a suitable spare connector...

This allows for later use if needed when fitting changed for a non class2.

Also prevents the lose earth wire accidentally touching a live part.

:coffee

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Chandelier you could whack the connector strip in a chock box?If bathroom light class 2 then no need for earth, so long as you are sure it's class 2. Assume if you've changed CU it's all on a RCD anyways?

I doubt a Choc-box would fit inside the actual fitting itself!

I assumed it is the last connection from the light itself we are talking about?

Personally I would use Wago's..

far quicker when trying to hang & connect the light

 

[jackfrosty]

if my assessor asks me to test the light and i have to drop it down and he see's the connecting block will he fail me? I only did a comsumer unit change

 

[Andy™]

if my assessor asks me to test the light and i have to drop it down and he see's the connecting block will he fail me? I only did a comsumer unit change

he can only 'fail' you if its something you dont wrong. f someone else stuck connector blocks where they shouldnt, then thats not your fault, but if you know they are there, you should at least make a note under 'comments of existing installation'

also, connector block inside a light fitting is not a fail. after all, its inside an enclosure.... very different if you push it through the ceiling though

 

[jackfrosty]

thanks for that i will do that. Also on the bathroom light im pretty sure its a class2 light because it looks modern as in not 1960's, its got no earth terminal and is all plastic with a glass dome top which screws onto the base which is plastic, would you agree? How do you test this? a wander lead to ensure intregrity of the line and neutral?

cheers

 

[Andy™]

thanks for that i will do that. Also on the bathroom light im pretty sure its a class2 light because it looks modern as in not 1960's, its got no earth terminal and is all plastic with a glass dome top which screws onto the base which is plastic, would you agree? How do you test this? a wander lead to ensure intregrity of the line and neutral?cheers

class II must have the DI symbol

 

[a1spark]

Hi D. how did you become involved in taking down the chandeleir light when you where only asked to change the C.U. ? . was it as the result of a pre job survey / PIR ? If you didnt fit it then why would the assesor want you to present it for inspection ?

Same questions apply for the bathroom light really aswell !

a1spark.

 

[jackfrosty]

I was taught with cosumer unit change you take on the existing wiring to a certain extent and to do a full test and pretty much check everything? Please put me right with anything not correct i say. Also for some reason with r1+r2 etc i always do it at the light as well as the switch, is testing at just switch adequate? Also when doing insulation resistance is it ok to just switch off the fused spur to the combi boiler? And with an electric shower is disconnection of the cables required to do r1+r2 etc?