Rivnut Tool

[OnOff]

Not got a picture but I have a light switch back box where the earth lug screw has sheared off through over tightening (yes, I did it :Blushing ). My only defence is that was it's an ancient back box and I was just tidying it all up in there, thought I'd just make sure it was tight and............ The T&E earth and fly lead are in place and tight. Of course I can change the back box but it's a hair & lime plastered wall  so guaranteed I'll end up with a big hole and finger plates. So................I was wondering whether a "rivnut" like in the video would be acceptable as a fix, then use a suitable brass or BZP bolt & ring crimp(s) on the cpcs? I have the rivnut kit and use them at work often.Thanks.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dkPhGIaPCVs 

 

[steptoe]

Is that the tool that puts a threaded rivet in?

We use them on the bikes all the time, my only concern would be the difference in metals,

Are your rivets aluminium?

Other than that I see no reason not to give it a go.

 

[OnOff]

Is that the tool that puts a threaded rivet in? We use them on the bikes all the time, my only concern would be the difference in metals, Are your rivets aluminium? Other than that I see no reason not to give it a go.

Yep, that's the tool. Great kit. Some people call them "nutserts". I've got zinc plated mild steel ones (and stainless steel ones too, but they're for making the Capri wings bolt on). Got M4, M5 & M6. Just wondering if the nose of the tool will be long enough to reach the bottom of the box as its a 35mm deep job. Cheers.

 

[Apache]

That looks great fun. I need one of those.

 

[OnOff]

This is my one but shop around:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RIVNUT-TOOL-HEAVY-DUTY-ECLIPSE-SPIRALUX-Incl-Assorted-box-of-Steel-Rivnuts-/370683185169?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item564e708811

Spares are easily available for the Eclipse model too! Not that I broke it, just lost the M6 nozzle! 

 

[Apache]

Great - thanks

 

[Bacon]

Very good tool to have especially if you do container based work ideal for holding light fittings on ceilings and sockets on walls.

Also various sizes from 5mm-12mmm biggest i've used but you can get bigger.

Iv'e allways known it a clinch-nut tool.

 

[wozz]

So what's already in the terminal nice and tight?

Is there much of a problem as is?

 

[OnOff]

So what's already in the terminal nice and tight?

Is there much of a problem as is?

Have a picture now. The corner earth screw with the 3 cpc's in is NOW broken off - subsequent to taking this. FYI they're the fly lead from the plate accessory, the cpc from the 3 core &earth and the cpc from the redundant red/black T&E. Everything is tight:

 

[wozz]

so you could have just terminated the earths into the front plate? 

I thought it was a metal accessory as you said flylead.

At least you have a proper terminal in that box unlike that excuse appleby use in their boxes!

 

[NozSpark]

What I tend to do in these cases is crimp a ring on the ends of the earths and put a "Orbix" screw through them

 

[wozz]

What I tend to do in these cases is crimp a ring on the ends of the earths and put a "Orbix" screw through them

done that before on boxes with no earth terminal and two adjustable lugs, although not a posh orbix probably a drywall jack point wafer head.  

 

[OnOff]

so you could have just terminated the earths into the front plate? 

I thought it was a metal accessory as you said flylead.

At least you have a proper terminal in that box unlike that excuse appleby use in their boxes!

I always like to use the back box earth AND the fly lead. Yes, it IS a metal accessory - basically the one gang version of this, hence the fly lead - though it looks YELLOW in the photo:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/volex-10a-2g-2w-sw-blk-ins-pol-chrome-angled-edge/78204

 

[wozz]

I always like to use the back box earth AND the fly lead. Yes, it IS a metal accessory - basically the one gang version of this, hence the fly lead - though it looks YELLOW in the photo:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/volex-10a-2g-2w-sw-blk-ins-pol-chrome-angled-edge/78204

I see personal preference i suppose, I would always take the earths to the frontplate if i could, im not that worried about the back box.

 

[OnOff]

Seems like you DON'T need to spend £60 on a rivnut tool:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverline-633942-Rivnut-Rivet-Nut-Setting-Tool-M4-M8-/170890397983?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27c9dc891f

Though for that price you might find the handles are cast aluminium like on the nasty, cheap rivet guns!

 

[Andy™]

may have to get one of those...

 

[ProDave]

As already suggested, in this case just terminate the two t&e cpc's into the earth terminal of the front plate. Job done.

Alternatively, how about a self tap screw into that spare hole in the bottom of the back box?

P.S, what's with the red & black t&e?  Is that spare?

 

[OnOff]

As already suggested, in this case just terminate the two t&e cpc's into the earth terminal of the front plate. Job done.

Alternatively, how about a self tap screw into that spare hole in the bottom of the back box?

P.S, what's with the red & black t&e?  Is that spare?,

A number of options there. thanks for that. I'm not tbh a self tapper fan though. Might have a go with the rivnut just to see what it looks like! Yep, the red and black and black is "spare" from I guess when the switch was a one way, originally just stuffed into a connector block, I've over sleeved both cores in heat shrink then gone over the pair in more heat shrink (the grey) and marked it with a Sharpie.

 

[kerching]

Pesonally I would go with the Orbix option...got me out of the carp on many an occasion.  F expensive though!

I keep a 'selection box' in the van a;ong with a box of the larger diameter 25mm long version.

I am the only one who is reluctant to use the wood point ones as they are so expensive...even if they are in the box?? :coat

 

[Wilpickard]

Could of changed the bloody back box by now!!