Safe Zone On This Wall

[PeteDel]

Hi all, im going to convert the light in my kitchen to a two way light. I know that if no accessories are on the wall that the safe zones are 15cm along the top and sides. 

bit unsure of this though as the wall isn't square and has a piece covering the top left corner, does the safe zone end where the top of the unpainted wall meets the red wall or does it come down and underneath the red area?

 

[PeteDel]

forgot to mention, the reason im running cables in walls is that I live in a ground floor flat so unable to go into the ceiling as its concrete. not going under the floor as got tiles.

 

[Evans Electric]

The "Safe Zones"  are as shown in the Regs  or On Site Guide  , fitting a cupboard or whatever doesn't change them .

 

[PeteDel]

I know the cupboard doesn't change the safe zones.  What I needed to know is does the red section above the cupboard create a step in the safe zone or does it mean that the corner of the safe zone is hidden behind it?

 

[ProDave]

Well I would say running a cable in the top 15cm of the red bit is in a safe zone. Is that what you mean?

 

[PeteDel]

Sorry if ive not explained it well, ive added lines onto the picture.  Do the safe zones run along the solid blue line and then disappear behind the red section of wall or does it run along the green. 

 

[steptoe]

what is the red section constructed from?

is it a part of the fabric of the building, or could it be removed?

 

[PeteDel]

the part of it that goes from floor to ceiling with the light switch on is a solid wall, the part which runs over the cupboard feels like plasterboard it sounds hollow

 

[steptoe]

sounds like its part of the building,

Id say the green line is the zone.

you also have a zone along the top of the red part too.

 

[ProDave]

The debate appears to be does the safe zone extend UNDER the red bit where you have put a green line.

But why would you even want to route a cable there?

If the red bit above the cupboard is hollow, then it's easy to fish a wire through inside the structure of that.

Or are you really contemplating trying to get into the gap and chase the wall along the opt of the cupboard? Why do things the difficult way?

 

[PeteDel]

I agree with you Dave that chasing straight up from the light switch and fishing cable through the hollow part would be quickest way to do it, however im trying to avoid the need to repaint the red walls.  On either side of the cupboard there is a space approx. 3 inch wide covered by a piece of wooden to give the cupboard the appearance of stretching wall to wall.  I was considering drilling through the wall behind the lightswitch, then surface mounting in trucking to top of cupboard and across to other side before burying in the wall on the unpainted wall

 

[ProDave]

I agree with you Dave that chasing straight up from the light switch and fishing cable through the hollow part would be quickest way to do it, however im trying to avoid the need to repaint the red walls.  On either side of the cupboard there is a space approx. 3 inch wide covered by a piece of wooden to give the cupboard the appearance of stretching wall to wall.  I was considering drilling through the wall behind the lightswitch, then surface mounting in trucking to top of cupboard and across to other side before burying in the wall on the unpainted wall

there's nothing wrong with that. Surface wiring does not need to stay in safe zones, and if you have infill panels to hide it, and a bit of trunking along the top of the cupboard, I don't see an issue.

 

[steptoe]

^^^^^

what he says,

+1

 

[PeteDel]

Thanks for the replies, im going to try get this done over the weekend

 

[NozSpark]

What type of light fitting do you have??

If its a pendant (or you're willing to change it to a pendant) then just use a Byron HE208 kit.... just found one on eBay for <£15.... needs an permanent supply and can be connected to existing switch to make it 2 way 

 

[steptoe]

Ive fitted a couple of byron dimmable units recently,

I think they were about 8£ each with the remotes coming in just under 7£

the non dimmables are a tad cheaper.

 

[PeteDel]

Job nearly done, cable + grommets fitted, boxes secured, all tested just needs the chases plastering over