Shipping containers

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lilman

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I need to get a supply to a steel shipping container (used as storage) for a customer. Not something I've done before - anyone got any tips or relevant links? For instance, what's best method of fixing accessories/ lighting etc; where's the best access point to feed the SWA in? It will be fed from a TT supply approx 10m away. Need to install a socket or two, dehumidifier, PIR/ lighting.

 
you can get sticky pad cable tie mounts.

or you can weld some brackets and fix wood to that. or bolt form outside. and run cables on that. if using metal accessories, weld direct to container

and dont forget the earthing. if exporting TNCS was ever a bad time, this is it

 
We have just finished a compound with about 80 of these units, all wired. As shelving was been knocked up out of 2x2 & ply they extended extra lengths across the roof for us to fix the lighting to, all was wedged in so no drilling of the container. We used enclosed (splashproof) fittings due to the low ceilings and possible damage & the dampness. On the units with paperwork, cardboard boxes etc they lined the ceilings with fibreboard to stop the damp dripping down. These containers really do sweat so make sure you fit rustproof and possibly IP rated equipment.We fitted IP rated pir sensors to operate the lights. We did TT the lot but you could use TNCS for the odd one if no metal pipework was connecting them

 
Did a lot of these for MOD was all done it pvc trunking at ceiling height and drops down to sockets in pvc conduit metal clad sockets and light switsches.

Usual method to bring supply in was from either of the corners about 2-3ft in then up in to large adapta box metal one the 25mm ovc conduit to the trunking cable feed around to didst board.

Hope it helps

 
Cheers all - some useful ideas. I think welding is out of the equation. PVC trunking/ conduit seems sensible. Couple more questions - how to attach light fittings to roof (internally)? Type of drill bits for this?

 
Ok, trade secret here. We bolted a 4x4 galvo box to the opening lip of the door frame. This had all the armoured's connected in and the pir detector bolted to the lid. So no drilling of the container where water could get in. I wouldnt trust self adhesive trunking or gripfill/silicon due to the moisture.

Lights were screwed to 2x2 battens wedged side to side above shelving. No drilling of the structure

 
Ordinary sharp HSS twist drill should drill the steel OK, slow"er" speed, as long as it is not made of chocolate HSS!

Need to be careful about holes becoming stress raisers, IF the unit is to be "Handled" after wiring.

I would avoid drilling it if at all possible.

Battens wedged sounds good to me you could even wedge legs under each end, use some builders ready made perforated steel brackets to fix together.

Taking that one step further, with a little thought a good eye and tape, a chop saw, hammer some screws & some corner brackets you could perhaps even knock up and jam in a skeleton frame to fix all your stuff to?

 
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