Sparkys And Shed Builders Unite, Guide Me.

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If you spur from the back of a socket on a ring to another socket and then onto a fused spur you are souring off a spur,,,, if however you add a fused spur at the origin of your addition then you aren't.

An extension lead has a fused plug at its connection hence this will (eventually) blow if it's overloaded

 
Quick question can you have an Rcd at both ends ie all garage or shed consumer units have a built in Rcd.

​Not best practice as you will not achieve discrimination as to which will trip first in the event of a fault

now from off my head i don't have any Rcd on my house consumer unit.

If you have a TT supply you may want to rectify this as a mater of urgency.

So once i take feed from the back of an interior 2 gang switched socket then hole to outside of house once that's sealed up i can run straight up the garden or first run into a weather proof outside box then run up garden. Weather proof unit with or without built in Rcd.

You'll need an RCD as it isn't a distribution circuit (definitely if it's a TT supply, unless you can satisfy some other regs)

[SIZE=12pt]Choice 1. This is what i will be doing. Permanent power[/SIZE]

A. Take feed from rear of interior 2g sw. Skt with 2.5 mm 2 core armoured cable on a 32 m run up the garden to shed.

Hmm as it is coming off the socket circuit, can it be classed as a distribution circuit? I'd say no, so that them leads into you'll be spurring off a spur once you get into the shed so far better to put a fused spur (rcd fuse spur if no rcd at house cu on socket circuit) to the socket then swa from the spur to the shed.

Also I assume you'll be using the supply (socket) earth to gland the armour as the circuit extension cpc?

B. connect to gland then connect live/ neutral to RCD 2 way consumer unit with 6amp/ 16 amp mcb's

Ok, check the upstream rcd/no rcd, you may be able to bin the shed rcd.

C. Connect earth wire to earth rod/ clamp buried in garden - connect other end to brass tag on wire by consumer unit.

Rod enclosure? 

​Dependent on the house supply type will you be isolating the circuit extension swa armour from the TT system at the shed end?

D. Run 2.5 mm TWE to 2g sw skts x 3 daisy chained.

Called a radial circuit.

E. run 1.5 mm TWE to light switch then to light fittings that are daisy chained.

Ok

Am fully aware about Part p.

Spot on so you'll be aware that it needs testing & certificating the notifying

The reason why I'm going from the back of a socket in my back room is because I can't go straight from my house consumer unit as its under the stairs. Get a sparks in he may be able to offer a route that will enable you to use a larger csa swa, such as splitting the meter tails rather than going to the consumer unit.Hence coming off the back of a none used socket. is this ok.It doesn't matter if we say it's ok or not ok, your the one planning to do the design/installation/testing/certification & notificating ..... history tells us here if we say dont do it, most diyers bimble on regardless then post back when it's gone wrong or the rcd's keep tripping.
Firstly see my red above.

Let me tell you of my day on Sunday.

It starts last Wednesday I get a call 

"I need a water heater putting in the garage/office, I put the electric in some months ago so that needs signing off as well" I agree to take a look.

I go there & yes it's a nice 2.5mm swa socket circuit extension from the back of a kitchen socket to the garage where it terminates into a 3036 board.

3036 board serves a 30amp ringmain with spurs off spurs & a lighting circuit consisting 6x 50w halogen & 2x 100w gls lamp posts.........the new water heater is a 9Kw unit.

I explain the swa is not suitable for the job & the installation method leads a lot to be desires & customer goes into panic as the consumer unit is under the stairs central of the house.

No problem I shall do it properly & split the meter tails in the external box.

"It's urgent & needs doing asap so the wife can start her beauty salon, she has customers pre booked for next week"

So sunday I:

Split meter tails.

put in a 100mA S type (TT system) &  50A mcb.

16mm 2 core swa down the drive to the garage.

new SBS cu with 20A ring / 6A lighting / 40A water heater.

new rod & enclosure.

Changed halogens for 9watt LED's 

Nw 10mm circuit for water heater + switch for local isolation.

What I'm trying to say is there is a diy get by way & then there is the correct way, but for some reason diyers tend not to like being told.

 
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Oddly enough Apache isn't far off a fully legal version. Install RCD socket on outside wall and plug very long extension lead into it, then do what you firkin like cos its legal, and not notiifable, bar the outdoor socket. Plug top will have 13A fuse in it so no danger of overloading socket circuit. Never did really understand how this isn't illegal, bar it's 'non-permanent' but there you go. No-one says your extension lead can't be SWA either. Would I advise doing this, NO, but that doesn't stop cat666 doing this if he wishes.

 
Let's for a minute think about this,

Suggest the OP has TNS with a Ze of 0.63 (random)

'resistance' of ring to point of spur, +32m to shed,

Anyone want to state the obvious once OP has changed the B16 to a D cos it keeps tripping on inrush.

 
Oddly enough Apache isn't far off a fully legal version. Install RCD socket on outside wall and plug very long extension lead into it, then do what you firkin like cos its legal, and not notiifable, bar the outdoor socket. Plug top will have 13A fuse in it so no danger of overloading socket circuit. Never did really understand how this isn't illegal, bar it's 'non-permanent' but there you go. No-one says your extension lead can't be SWA either. Would I advise doing this, NO, but that doesn't stop cat666 doing this if he wishes.
afaik it would depend as being plugged in doesn't necessarily get it out of being a fixed installation, this would depend on what was done with said extension lead. Permanent and temporary have no bearing.

 
`Pache - I know where you`re coming form with that, and, to a point I agree - but once someone is "plugging something in" - its outside anyone else`s control - doesn`t really matter if its an appliance they`ve just bought, or a lead to a machine they`ve just built themselves - at some point the individual has to take over their own responsibilities & liabilities.

However - in the case of the O/P, there are two distinct parts to the problem; and the areas where I foresee possible problems.

1. The O/P is, as has been pointed out, ignoring the possibility of issues with his existing install - he doesn`t KNOW that this is a ring, a correctly installed & wired ring, with the correct OCPD & associated.  He isn`t even certain of the earthing system  - ergo he cannot correctly design an extension to the fixed installation - and, if he designs it, he has to sign that its compliant..............

2. Leading on from the last point - yes, I agree that 2.5 XLPE will comply on current carrying for his intents, as they stand; and may comply with v. drop ( remembering that the v. drop on the ring would need to be included in the total drop figure - something else the O/P cannot know) ; but the SWA wouldn`t have sufficient OCP, as he`s suggesting - not to mention the "radial" to be installed at the far end.

I have to agree with the majority of other respondants - the O/P ought to get someone in now, to design the circuit, and instruct the O/P in the correct installation method - `cos the qualified guy is going to want to know what he`s signing off ( I would hope). That is the only way I would consider taking this on - I expect most others to have a similar view.

n.b for a submain to a shed, with the info given........I wouldn`t advise 2.5mm. I`d go up to 4 or 6mm; to allow for future "add-ons".

KME 

 
afaik it would depend as being plugged in doesn't necessarily get it out of being a fixed installation, this would depend on what was done with said extension lead. Permanent and temporary have no bearing.
Wrong terminology - should be hardwired / non-hardwired, regs only cover hardwired, soon as you go to plug top, it's not under BS7671. No doubt falls under some other spec, but out of the general scope of electrical safety as far as we generally discuss on this forum.

 
Wrong terminology - should be hardwired / non-hardwired, regs only cover hardwired, soon as you go to plug top, it's not under BS7671. No doubt falls under some other spec, but out of the general scope of electrical safety as far as we generally discuss on this forum.
not referring to BS7671, its a part of the building regs

2.8
Installing fixed electrical equipment is within the scope of Part P, even if the final connection is by
a standard 13A plug and socket, but is notifiable only if it involves work set out in regulation 12(6A). 
 
it will always come under building regs. just not everything is notifiable
Not everything in your homes comes under building regulations, that's why you don't have to get them involved on everything you do.That's why DIY is rife in this country, nobody inspects what you have done as it's not a requirement, so you see Porches and Small Extensions that really are poor and should never be allowed.

 
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not referring to BS7671, its a part of the building regs

2.8
Installing fixed electrical equipment is within the scope of Part P, even if the final connection is by
a standard 13A plug and socket, but is notifiable only if it involves work set out in regulation 12(6A). 

Ok so if he plugs everything in the shed into socket on end of extension lead, and dangles inspection light on a nail, trails 4 gang socket across bench... :innocent

Have to say I wasn't aware of the above - haven't read building regs for ages, except in relation to solar...

 
Not everything in your homes comes under building regulations, that's why you don't have to get them involved on everything you do.

That's why DIY is rife in this country, nobody inspects what you have done as it's not a requirement, so you see Porches and Small Extensions that really are poor and should never be allowed.
Not quite steve, everything, does require compliance with Building Regulations, it's just that you don't need to tell them, you are still legally bound to comply.

Same way all construction related works, even undertaken by a sole trader comes under CDM, it's just that works below a certain amount of "effort" don't require notifying to HSE.

 
It's interesting that that "Wiring Matters" document is still widely available and indeed on the IET site:

http://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/2005.cfm

Not sure what the deal is there.....are they recognising that there are loads of installs still with old boards put in to the 16th etc and someone wanting to power a shed etc might not want go to the "trouble" of a whole new board etc. If someone with an old board was to follow the "Wiring Matters" document NOW they would just end up with an install the same as so many others out there.

 
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