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Blue Fox

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Hello all,

Been and done a visual inspection for a landlord this evening. Found a couple of problems and wanted to check I've got the coding right. I've put the fault and codeing below. Also could do with some help with a BS number. The fuses were the pop out type made by wylex and are in a metal clad box.

Gas bonding only 6mm - code 2

Water bonding not visible - code 1

Main earth to fuse box 6mm - code 2

Front fuse cover missing from fusebox - code 1 (small fingers could touch live parts)

Kitchen lighting 2 way switching causing 1 light to flash as switch is changed over probably a strapper problem - code 3

Oven cable from oven switch in 2.5mm T+E - code 1 (its on a 30A fuse, could see it as kitchen being refurbed and cooker not connected)

No RCD - Code 4

No supplimentary bonding in bathroom - Code 3

No supplimentary bonding at boiler - code 3

Also several of the socket covers in the kitchen have had the screws removed and are hanging off as its all being retiled - do I need to put this down as they are all going to be refitted properly once the tiles have dried?

 
Hello all,Been and done a visual inspection for a landlord this evening. Found a couple of problems and wanted to check I've got the coding right. I've put the fault and codeing below. Also could do with some help with a BS number.generally BS 3871, isolator is probably BS 5943 The fuses were the pop out type made by wylex and are in a metal clad box.

Gas bonding only 6mm - code 2id go with 4 if it shows no signs of thermal damage, otherwise 2. but if its TT, then 6mm is acceptable so no code (unless damaged)

Water bonding not visible - code 1not visible doesnt mean not done. code 3 unless you are cetain it isnt done

Main earth to fuse box 6mm - code 2what size are the tails?

Front fuse cover missing from fusebox - code 1 (small fingers could touch live parts)definitely code 1

Kitchen lighting 2 way switching causing 1 light to flash as switch is changed over probably a strapper problem - code 3

Oven cable from oven switch in 2.5mm T+E - code 1 (its on a 30A fuse, could see it as kitchen being refurbed and cooker not connected)for a fixed load, you dont need overcurrent protection. fault protection is by 30A fuse. no code (unless signs of damage)

No RCD - Code 4no RCD for what?

No supplimentary bonding in bathroom - Code 3how does it require further investigation? code 2, or if all circuits are RCD'd (which im guessing there not), code 4

No supplimentary bonding at boiler - code 3never been an electrical regulation. no code

Also several of the socket covers in the kitchen have had the screws removed and are hanging off as its all being retiled - do I need to put this down as they are all going to be refitted properly once the tiles have dried?code 1 as is, although if your satisfied they will be screwed back properly, ignore this
my red

 
so if an oven pulls 27amps it can be 2.5 t+e and 32mcb?

 
zee spark.i know just an example cus 2.5 is rated at 27amps

45amp hob would be 25.5 amps with socket, not that it would ever pull it.

russell i would say the same but andy c has it in his quote

 
nice one, i thought u take load of the appliance, get the closes mcb (this can be higher but not lower) then put in cable rated no lower than the fuse

 
433.3.3 is ommissions of devices for safety reasons. (i.e fire alarms, sprinkler pumps etc)

oven would be 433.3.1 (ii). this would also apply to an electric shower

 
Haven`t got my BRB handy, Andy (I like the sound of that!!)

Whats 433.3.1 saying? I can`t envisage a scenario where that would be acceptable.

Scrap the above. I`ve got it here. wait 1

KME

 
Last edited by a moderator:
433.3.1 A device for protection againt overload need not be provided:

(ii) for a conductor which, because of the characteristics of the load or supply, it not likely to carry overload current, provided that the conductor is protected againt fault current in accordance with the requirements of section 434

 
Ah! So Christmas with all the family, oven`s been on since yesterday evening, all four hotplates going - would not constitute "overload current". The reg. doesn`t specify a duration - it says it isn`t likely to carry overload.

Same for electric shower. If I use your reasoning, a borderline cable is actually ok?

I`m afraid, in my opinion, 433.3.1(ii) does not include cookers, instantaneous showers and the like.

Sorry to be argumentative

Martyn

 
Ah! So Christmas with all the family, oven`s been on since yesterday evening, all four hotplates going - would not constitute "overload current". The reg. doesn`t specify a duration - it says it isn`t likely to carry overload.Same for electric shower. If I use your reasoning, a borderline cable is actually ok?

I`m afraid, in my opinion, 433.3.1(ii) does not include cookers, instantaneous showers and the like.

Sorry to be argumentative

Martyn
why doesnt 433.3.1(ii) include showers etc? depends how you interpret it i suppose, but when i done my 16th (all those years ago!) this is what lecturer said about it

if something cannot possibly overload (like a shower), then it does fit into 433.3.1 by characteristics of load (in my opinion)

 
I see where you are coming from, but to me except where 433.3.3 applies, wouldn't it be better to back the cable with a suitably sized mcb or fuse ?

That way if the cooker or shower is swapped out then the worst case is a tripped breaker.

However back to the original point I guess it is a question of interpretation on how it is coded.

 
probably easier to have cable rating higher than MCB (and if its a new design that how it should be), but if its a modification to existing system, then sometimes its the easiest way

 
why doesnt 433.3.1(ii) include showers etc? depends how you interpret it i suppose, but when i done my 16th (all those years ago!) this is what lecturer said about itif something cannot possibly overload (like a shower), then it does fit into 433.3.1 by characteristics of load (in my opinion)
Lecturers can be wrong - or just as self-opinionated as the rest of us :D .

I would have thought any power hungry device like a shower or cooker very much represents a potential overload, especially under fault conditions, or when people change appliances. Something like an alarm panel drawing less than 1Amp then I think you would have a point.

 
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