Wiring Diagram Barn / Workshop

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"Was Beetyboop44"
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Hi

I am wanting to get some re-wiring in my Barn / Workshop , I wanted to do a design myself to show who ever is going to do the work , a lot of it is to re-do and upgrade sizes of old Red n Black cable with the same route that is there , the Workshop has 3 Phase to it , I am going to use 2 of the Phases , 1 Phase is for the House .

Could anyone on here have a look at my design / Plan and comment on it pls .

ps: am having a prob trying upload the drawing from my pc ! .
cheers

Anne.W

 
You are showing two socket spurs as 1.5

Why a 16A circuit for some of the lights?

Why the two single phase CU's I would just have the one 3 phase board.
 

 
I’ve seen the drawing before and I’ll echo what others have said before “rethink your layout plans and then leave it to the electrician to work out the details”.

 
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There's so many things on that drawing that are a bit WTH but there is no point in expanding on any of them as they would be sorted in 5 minutes by whoever is doing the job so no need to teach you all about the regs etc here. Like why 2 submains and CU's from the main DB? How dod you arrive at 16mm² cables? There is no such thing as 83A. The note about the board not being the DNOs, well yes, obviously. They don't own anyones 3 phase DB, that's not how it works.... etc.....

Just mark where you want sockets etc and leave it at that. Don't try and design the socket locations around what circuit you think you need, like where you have 2 sockets on a wall and you think you need a ring to have more, and you also say that there is a spur at the end but it isn't because it is a radial. All nonsense, just mark the sockets and hand the drawing over.

I do a lot of work for someone that gives me things like this, absolute nightmare, you have to back it up a few steps and work out why he is doing some of the things he is doing then you find out the whole thing is designed around a laymans misunderstanding of some technical point.

You've said in your profile you are time served, hopefully this is not true? The more I look at this the more I think I'd turn the job down.

 
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I’ve seen the drawing before and I’ll echo what others have said before “rethink your layout plans and then leave it to the electrician to work out the details”.
Hi

Thanks for your reply , no "others" have said anything yet on this forum , I am asking for help on this forum  , Don't need any remarks regarding what has been posted on other sites ! 😬

 
You are showing two socket spurs as 1.5

Why a 16A circuit for some of the lights?

Why the two single phase CU's I would just have the one 3 phase board.
 
Yes , I thought that was ok to use 1.5mm2 for a spur ! , there is no 16A for any light circuits ,  it is the light circuit going across the 16A , I am only using 2 of the phases ! .

 
I'm thinking like Lurchio & Tony  TBH ,  just mark where the sockets & light switches  go and let the sparks get on with it . 

And like Prodave  , why bother with the sub-main & small board  , just work from the TPN board  that doesn't belong to the DNO. 

 
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There's so many things on that drawing that are a bit WTH but there is no point in expanding on any of them as they would be sorted in 5 minutes by whoever is doing the job so no need to teach you all about the regs etc here.

Just mark where you want sockets etc and leave it at that. Don't try and design the socket locations around what circuit you think you need, like where you have 2 sockets on a wall and you think you need a ring to have more, and you also say that there is a spur at the end but it isn't because it is a radial. All nonsense, just mark the sockets and hand the drawing over.

I do a lot of work for someone that gives me things like this, absolute nightmare, you have to back it up a few steps and work out why he is doing some of the things he is doing then you find out the whole thing is designed around a laymans misunderstanding of some technical point.
Hi 

Thanks for you heeeeellppp , not , I thought I would be helping the sparky to price the job , I am paying so I will want whatever I need as long as it is within current specs , 

That is why I am posting on here , asking for any constructive opinion , not negative remarks , how can you say if you were given this drawing it would a " absolute nightmare" you would definitely not be asked to do any work for me .

 
You seem to have  good basic electrical knowledge ,Beety , would you not be doing it yourself ? 

All this knowledge about cable sizes , radial circuits , SWA , RCDs  sounds like someone from the trade. 

  However you show a 4core  X 16mm  SWA  feeding that RCD Consumer Units  ...I'm assuming they are SP  so only 2core needed .

I also assume that the 3ph box is a switch panel as opposed to a distribution board , my mistake,  so you will have each CU on a different phase , I'm up to speed now .        

 
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I am paying so I will want whatever I need as long as it is within current specs


Exactly, you are paying an electrician to design the installation. You are clearly not good at it as most of your drawing is wrong/weird/odd. There is no way would anyone wire the place exactly to your drawing so why bother doing it?

I am posting on here , asking for any constructive opinion , not negative remarks


Erm, that was constructive criticism.

how can you say if you were given this drawing it would a " absolute nightmare"


Because it makes little sense and is generally wrong.

 
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Well here is my take on it....bearing in mind I would not do a job in this way.

at the end of the job there needs to be a certificate....are you prepared to accept full responsibility for the design section of the Cert and as such sign it?

the spark only signing the installation and test sections

best option....mark,the points you want and let the spark get on with it

just saying

 
Beetyboop44,

As a qualified electrician and a registered professional engineer, amongst other things, if you provided me with a drawing like that then the conversation would go one of two ways.

Option 1 would be, yes I will install & test exactly to your specification, and you would have to sign for the design and any deviations from the requirements of BS7671 and accept any and all of the legal ramifications of them.

Option 2, would be for you to find another fool to do the work for you.

Now please, calm down and think about what the others are saying.

Have you looked at the fundamental design requirements for compliance with BS7671.

It's not just 1.5mm sq for lights and 2.5mm sq for sockets.

There is a lot more to it than that, the designer has to consider volt drop, earth fault loop impedance, ADS, supply type, selectivity, diversity, affect on the remainder of the installation.

I would suggest that you decide what you want where, and let an electrically competent person (as defined in law), undertake the design and specification of the details.

This does not have to be the installer if you want to look for the cheapest price.

I would however, caution you on procuring against the cheapest cost option.

You will always find someone to do a job cheaper, but, will it be safe and compliant with regulations and accepted standards?

 
Hi 

Thanks for you heeeeellppp , not , I thought I would be helping the sparky to price the job , I am paying so I will want whatever I need as long as it is within current specs , 

That is why I am posting on here , asking for any constructive opinion , not negative remarks , how can you say if you were given this drawing it would a " absolute nightmare" you would definitely not be asked to do any work for me .


how can we say you would be an 'absolute nightmare'? easy. we have all had people like you in the past

if you asked me for a price based on your drawing, you would be getting a much higher price than if you gave a drawing of just socket / light locations. you would also be told you will have to sign the design part of the EIC.

 
Exactly, you are paying an electrician to design the installation. You are clearly not good at it as most of your drawing is wrong/weird/odd. There is no way would anyone wire the place exactly to your drawing so why bother doing it?

Erm, that was constructive criticism.

Because it makes little sense and is generally wrong.
Thanks for reply , I am not paying anyone to design the installation , I am going to do myself , it will be done correctly before handing over for a quote , that is the reason I have posted it on here , to get some constructive opinion , were I could alter the drawing  , all I have had on here is that it is a **** drawing , but no help as  to what is wrong with or what can be changed , I am not going to go into circuit testing , voltage drop etc , them tests can be performed by the installation sparky after installation and signed of accordingly .

 
Thanks for reply , I am not paying anyone to design the installation , I am going to do myself , it will be done correctly before handing over for a quote , that is the reason I have posted it on here , to get some constructive opinion , were I could alter the drawing  , all I have had on here is that it is a **** drawing , but no help as  to what is wrong with or what can be changed , I am not going to go into circuit testing , voltage drop etc , them tests can be performed by the installation sparky after installation and signed of accordingly .
They say a little knowledge is dangerous.

Volt drop must be taken into consideration whilst the circuits are being designed, not after they've been installed.

I have to say the only job Ive ever walked away from was similar to this, I know the spark who ended up doing it and it turns out I made the right decision

 
They say a little knowledge is dangerous.

Volt drop must be taken into consideration whilst the circuits are being designed, not after they've been installed.

I have to say the only job Ive ever walked away from was similar to this, I know the spark who ended up doing it and it turns out I made the right decision
Hi thanks for your reply , yes I know the voltage drop has to be worked out for the load n length size of cable , but I could safely say that a 12m run of properly fitted cable would be well within the specs ( I can hear the hardliners shouting , she is guessing her way ) this place all ready had the same cable runs in more or less the same socket points , but it was in old wiring , that has now all been ripped out .

 
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