Your thoughts - water damaged swa

[kme]

Here`s the scenario:

Some wazzock installs two ground-mounted external luminaires, wired in SWA. the 2 swa feeds are taken to an IP box, mounted to the side of the building, along with the feed swa (all bottom entry).

HOWEVER - he doesn`t seal the fixing holes. When box lid unscrewed, lots of water emerges. baaaaad ****!

Because all swa cables are bottom entry, they`re full of water.

Question is:

Do you

a. discard existing swa altogether, and replace with new.

b. unearth, and cut back x distance to find clean (dry) point for cold resin connection? If so, what value is x?

c. other?

I`m tending towards a, but welcome my esteemed colleagues` feedback and viewpoints.

Thanks in advance.

KME

 

[Zeespark]

Martyn, I would rip it all out and replace it personally, but thats just My opinion. No guaruntees that it wont happen again if you dont buddy.

Andy Guiness Drink

 

[Apache]

c) solar powered lights?

 

[Zeespark]

In the UK? behave Apache this place isnt exactly the Sahara desert

AndyGuiness Drink

 

[NozSpark]

I've done a bit of "b" in the past on a holiday park!! It had been wet for so long that the armour was rotten through!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All you can do is keep on cutting back till you find a good bit!

 

[kme]

Aye. My thoughts too.

Always good to make sure you`re not the only one on the bus, isn`t it?

 

[Badger]

c) solar powered lights?

what about a sloar powered fuseboard :^O :^O :^O :coat

 

[a1]

I'd go with 'A'.

 

[Badger]

I think 'D'

 

[avinalarf]

Folks, I'm afraid I'm too green to give advice, but KME's OP mentioned "cold resin". I'm about to embark on a garden installation with some 15+ luminaires!

What's the easiest/best way to terminate the SWA before branching off for the fittings?

 

[ABC Technical]

Martyn, I would (if possible) replace the lot, then show the numpty how it should have been done in the first place.

 

[batty]

Always good idea to put drain hole in a waterproof box, sockets and switches have them. If there is enough cable reterminate if not just replace cable a lot cheaper than joining I think depending how long cable is.

Batty

 

[green-hornet]

Folks, I'm afraid I'm too green to give advice, but KME's OP mentioned "cold resin". I'm about to embark on a garden installation with some 15+ luminaires!What's the easiest/best way to terminate the SWA before branching off for the fittings?

You could use this type of connector

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15995/Electrical-Supplies/Cable-Accessories/Waterproof-Cable-Joints/IP68-Waterproof-Junction-Box

There are others I have seen with up to 6 outlets but I can not find them on line just now.

 

[PC Electrics]

I'd replace the lot. If the ends of the SWA have been immersed in water for any significant amount of time, then water could have moved along the cores and armour quite some distance by capillary action. This water will become trapped in the cable and corrosion will continue.

 

[a1]

I'd replace the lot. If the ends of the SWA have been immersed in water for any significant amount of time, then water could have moved along the cores and armour quite some distance by capillary action. This water will become trapped in the cable and corrosion will continue.

Hello PC, Nice to see back on here Mate. Haven't seen you online for a while.

 

[NozSpark]

Bearing in mind that resin joints are ITRO

 

[M107]

I'm with the rip it out & replace the lot crowd.

 

[Andy™]

Folks, I'm afraid I'm too green to give advice, but KME's OP mentioned "cold resin". I'm about to embark on a garden installation with some 15+ luminaires!What's the easiest/best way to terminate the SWA before branching off for the fittings?

are you wanting to use a resin joint to branch off to each light?

 

[Andy™]

a. discard existing swa altogether, and replace with new.

b. unearth, and cut back x distance to find clean (dry) point for cold resin connection? If so, what value is x?

c. other?

possibly A. depending on which way cable is etc, water could be pretty far down the cable and give problems in future. Had to replace a SWA a few month ago because it had acted like a hose and switch inside (IP rated) was full of water. being IP rated the water couldnt get out.

Could go with B, but you would have to cut a bit off, test and keep going back til you get decent readings, but any water may give problems in future (like armour rusting and going O/C)

 

[a1]

Folks, I'm afraid I'm too green to give advice,

No you're not - Thoughts were asked for, and there is no reason why you can't put your in.