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dodgy element. you need them hot to IR test properly

so what testing has been done? did ecerything work before the switch was added?

they do exist... usually a quick pull for on/off, hold for dimming

and i bet you didn't take a photo of the wiring before you moved them into the wrong terminals

how dare you say such a thing about the scams

exactly. do your safe isolation and test all is dead, all good. break a neutral connection and that neutral is now live. yet many 'electricians' & DIYers can't understand this

im sure they will make up for it with the next book

they may have 'contributed' to it, but maybe everyone else thought their ideas were bad and ignored them?

either 10/16a if the lighting can handle it, or put the lighting on a fused spur on the kitchen circuit. still not ideal, but far safer than leaving them on different MCB's but either way, some basic I&T before changign the board would have alread highlighted the issue so the price to put it...

exactly. since the wiring is mixed then it can only be one circuit so one MCB / RCBO. leaving it on different MCB's is not an acceptable solution

so what would you like? reply stating 'you're right, that is a 30 minutes job and should only cost you £50 inc parts. clearly they are ripping you off' or the truth of their expectations are not realistic and far from how it works in the real world

do you think the van full of materials magically appeared on their own? still time involved in keeping stock quoted over the phone is still time taken. and he still has to travel even if its local get a few more estimates

might take 30 minutes to do the job. what about travel time to get there? time spent going for materials? time spent giving quotes?

as much as i don't like landlords, why? what's there is prefectly good with a few modifications. there is no need to replaced just because you think it should be replaced

not many daft enough to buy from B&Q

er.. no. a borrowed neutral is not compliant. what you are suggesting is a bodge. do the job properly or not at all and you can easily argue that a split load board doesn't comply anyway

if you did all your checks, why did you not notice the shared neutrals? this is why a full EICR should be done before a board change. then its just a case of swap the board and limited further testing required for the EIC

doesn't need replaced. swap the 2x MCB's for RCBO and you're done think you need a better sparky

higher load, higher neutral voltage with reference to earth. more current flows N-E and trips the RCD/RCBO. see it more with higher loads like showers & electric cookers

N-E fault on the lighting circuit most likely