Changed bathroom pull switch

[wanders1981]

Hi all

My bathroom light stopped working this morning, I popped down to screwfix to pick up a replacement and changed it myself, didn't think it was a difficult or dangerous task.

I've got 4 spotlights in the bathroom and there is also an extractor fan that turns on (separate isolater switch).

I changed it over today and when I pulled the cord there's no lighting.

I've checked for power with a non contact voltage detector with power cut off (no beeping) and turned back on (beeping) so I'm thinking maybe it's the wrong type of pull switch?

The old switch was a dimmer pull switch, I'll add pictures of the old as well as the new. Is it a case of the wrong switch or an electrician needs to be called out?

Any advice appreciated, thanks

 

[wanders1981]

 

[wanders1981]

I've also realises that as well as the bathroom lighting which is upstairs, the other 3 bedroom lights are not working either. The upstairs hallway light is working though. Could be getting it in the neck from the wife when she gets home

 

[Andy™]

and i bet you didn't take a photo of the wiring before you moved them into the wrong terminals

 

[Murdoch]

Whoops ................

Photo of connections into said switch?

 

[wanders1981]

No I didn't

 

[wanders1981]

No I didn't

 

[binky]

was there only 2 wires?

 

[Murdoch]

If other lights aren’t working then you have a bigger problem to sort

 

[wanders1981]

There is also an earth which is behind in a sleeve but not attached to anything

 

[ProDave]

When the bathroom light stopped working, did you check the other upstairs lights were still working?

What made you think it was the bathroom light switch at fault?

Are you SURE nothing has tripped in your consumer unit? Post a picture of that please?

Random part substitution without proper testing seldom results in a quick fix.

I bet your spotlights are 12V and the transformer has blown and there was nothing wrong with the switch.

 

[wanders1981]

The pull cord in the bathroom has become more and more unreliable over the past few weeks, it worked last night but then this morning I yanked it and yanked it and still nothing, so I assumed it was the switch. To be honest it was early and light so really don't know if any of the other lights were working at that point. I'll send a pic of the consumer unit now.

The upstairs landing light is working so if all the lights are on a circuit could it be that it goes to the bathroom next and then on to the other lights? I can go into the roof tomorrow and have a look at the wiring.

Thanks to everyone so far offering their help!!

 

[wanders1981]

 

[wanders1981]

I've just beenn told by the wife that the bedroom light didn't work this morning either, so it looks like the problem was before I changed the light switch and affected all upstairs lighting other than the upstairs hallway

 

[binky]

I've just beenn told by the wife that the bedroom light didn't work this morning either, so it looks like the problem was before I changed the light switch and affected all upstairs lighting other than the upstairs hallway

hopefully you have easy access pendants, look for loose connections at each fitting, then go for a fight through the attic insualtion looking for junction boxes and loose connections.

 

[wanders1981]

Thanks Binky, I'll get on it first thing and update

 

[poni]

pullcord dimmer switch ! what next tartan paint and long weights, these were thing's we used to ask the appearances to get from the stores !!

 

[Andy™]

pullcord dimmer switch

they do exist... usually a quick pull for on/off, hold for dimming

 

[Richard-the-Ninth]

Also available in black, chrome, brass, smoked bronze etc

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Hi all

I've checked for power with a non contact voltage detector with power cut off (no beeping) and turned back on (beeping) so I'm thinking maybe it's the wrong type of pull switch?

Non-contact voltage detectors have very limited value during fault investigation...

A proper two probe voltage tester is far more reliable at both detecting actual voltage and dead circuits...
e.g. this type of item.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/kewtech-kt1780-ac-dc-2-pole-voltage-tester-690v/53370

( NOTE: numerous other brands / costs are available.. This is just to provide an image so you can see what I am talking about.. )

If you had used one of these type of testers you could have quickly and easily proved if the original switch was actually faulty..

The forum has a considerable number of historic DIY questions from people who have randomly swapped the wrong bit(s), without actually proving that something was faulty before replacing it!!

Non-contact testers can be used by someone who knows their limitations to assist various aspects of electrical work...
But they are NOT an industry standard tool to verify if a circuit is live or dead to allow safe working..
Whereas the two probe-devices are recognised as an effective means to verify a circuit is dead and thus now safe to work on.

Basic rule of fault finding.. Assume everything is wrong and/or faulty until you have proved otherwise...

Your next step IMHO is verify if your new switch is working i.e.
Is there is a permanent live coming in.. and a switched live going out..??
But this can be difficult to prove with a non-contact tester due to the proximity of the incoming & outgoing conductors!

If you consider yourself competent to do further investigations.. (some DIY electrical work is legally permitted within the UK)..
Then I would suggest you invest in a better voltage tester..

But if not... the cheapest and fastest solution is to get a local electrician in to investigate and fix it for you!