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If the wire got that hot the last few inches won't be suitable for re use.    Nor will whatever the "Junction box" is (Switch Outlet plate etc ?)  Either cut (carefully) into the wall until you have a freed some of the cable and cut off 3 inches and put a new Immersion heater switch/outlet ...

Unless you really like pulling floors up I'd have turned off the boiler, closed isolator valves (or removed and  linked the boiler flow and return pipes) with a gauge in line and pressurised that arrangement to 2 bar.   If it held its not the external piping Otherwise/then close/cap the...

Will the movie start after the adverts ? 

IP44 really isn't very waterproof - remember that even 'breathing in and out damp air ' as the lights go on and off will start to cause the fittings to deteriorate.    If you  have that many matching fittings outdoors I'd buy a few spares now while you can  . . 

Just to say that in terms of RF performance a wall socket that is effectively a back to back connector with an inside and outside F plug will have superior performance to a screw terminal /hoop terminated cable into the back of the socket.  I only use the terminal type when the cable entry angle...

Whatever the problem it's the landlords to fix not yours . 

Its allowed, but go for as deep a box as your can to give extra air space around it.  

Darn. That’s where dads went ! 

It’s a twist on a bodge but if the heavier equipment at the far end can survive on the too low voltage (a big if!) a separate lighting cable run alongside won’t suffer much drop If using LEDs etc.     Ideally add a proper much larger cable for the power feed and use the one you already...

Most are low power 'relays' so if you're close to them and with a still fairly decent signal from the router  they are good (in terms of throughput speed)  They all make the device show strong wifi even if the actual throughput may be  crawling.    Most effective in drywall rather than metal...

Back to the DIY section then . . . 

In the rush for "more efficient LEDs" the approach of overdriving the LEDs, underspec'ing the drivers  and inflating the light output and lifetime specs appears to be the chosen route for many.  Rarely have I seen a LED taking it's full rated current , especially the far eastern variety . . 

Yep   Separate supply to the other side of the road and get the overall design checked and updated as suggested.   

If you do indeed have 16 x 7Watt LED fixtures that is a total specified of 112 watts and at 230V that is theoretically 0.5A.  In practice Amps or VA matters and so it could all run at somewhat more or a bit less then 0.5A ... More important is that Each fitting will take a great big gulp of...

😂😂

Possibly some sort of programmable security light timer ?

Yep,  I now have a collection of the supplied Wiska terminal block in case I ever need the full uncensored grief of large cable-connecting in a small wall box on a ladder 😂😂

I now fit them using a Wiska box and lever Wago's as having to change the darn thing for another sometime soon is a near certainty! Also missing is the on-off-on routine for manual on, presumably because the drivers and/or LEDs burn out fairly quickly when run continuously  . . 

An apprentice . . . . 

Make that WHEN . . .