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Vote for Texecom Elite here. Wired up and can always add wireless zones if you forgot something.

Systems can be setup in many ways. And different models of inverters have differing levels of flexibility. Generally though, the battery will be charged by surplus generation that would normally be exported to the grid.

At least you're on the right understanding mate. Just making sure you weren't expecting results in the thousands of amps like those typical of other earthing systems. Not 100% sure how the megger conducts it's tests. Low current results can be a bit flakey at times anyway.

out of curiosity, what PFC reading would you expect?

Test before the RCD? What is the Ze reading. 20 amps could be a reasonable reading on a TT. Hence the requirement for upfront RCD on TT systems as the fault current won't always be high enough to trip / blow fault protection. If you're doing a Zdb / Zs reading, going to have to be on lo current.

Same again here mate regards being the sole income for the house. Have to keep a tight ship.

This is the Sheffield zone I'm talking about, not the London. I have no idea of the rules down there tbh. If you look at sheffields info site though, it states it up near top of page. Clicky

They don't have anyone on the cards mate, just subbies. Another option for me is to get a 'car'. Something like the 'car' of a berlingo / partner and try set it up like a van. Basically a sneaky van as personal cars are exempt from this ULEZ. I personally don't like the idea of lease /...

I'm a bit like you work wise. Subbed to same complany now for 4 years. 3 years ago I bought a 11 plate combo van for £1800. Speant a few hundred quid straight away changing 2 front legs and discs and pads all round. Been driving it round since. Done about 35k in it, I service it once a year and...

Somebody mention DC? Deffo needs an A type RCD :ROFLMAO: Looking good @Badger

The other half of the battle is figuring out what the question is actually asking. It's worse than reading shakeshpear sometimes.

By fire clips, do you mean the metal fold-in ones that go in PVC trunking? or thinkgs like the linian clips for round cable? or.....

Easiest way to tell if capacitor has gone is the drum wont start turning when you switch machine on, but if you give the drum a push start, it will carry on as normal.

Yes, device like the Solic typically use PWM to regulate power output, hence I would put that on the N/C contact adn trigger the relay coil with the Nest which is a standard 230Vac output. Also, changes are the OP wants to use solar generation where possible as default and Boost with Nest. So as...

Why a relay AND contactor? could do it with a DPDT relay with 230Vac coil. Unless I've miss understood the requirements, which happens alot according to the wife.

Thinking more about it.What about putting the Solic through the Normally Closed connection. Then Nest to Normally open with a link to to power the relay. So Nest switches on (assuming you're using it to boost}, activates the relay / contactor, isolating the Solic and allowing the Nest power...

Never seen one with 2 coils. an option would be an 'double throw' one. In fact, probably need to be a relay. Only ever seen contactors as Normally open or Normally closed. In you get a double throw. You could put your 'default' supply on the N/C contact and the other on the N/O. The the Common...

It's up to you really, but horizontal rails are generally easier. Only time vertical rails are better is if your panels are stacking up the roof on top of each other. If the panels are laying side by side then you just have 2 long runs of rail rather than lots of vertical bits.

Components such as energy meters are usually RS485 MODBUS too. Can't say ever seen a CANBUS version, though I'm sure they will exist by now.

Absolute pain in the rear doing vertical rails. At the end of the day you can only work with what you have. Have you checked if the panels can be clamped on the short edge? Some allow it, many dont.