1St Fix Checklist

[revor]

I am doing my own build and doing the wiring which will be checked by a contractor appointed by building control.  Whilst doing the first fix all cables and JB's are being numbered and checked for continuity and insulation as per good practice, and marked on drawings for my own use and also to make it easier for the checking contactor. What I want to know is how far to take the first fix i.e. how much can I do within this first fix. Traditionally to me this is known as pre plasterboard checks and it was to check that cables were correct rating grommets in boxes securely fixed etc. The nature of what I am doing means that there will be some plasterboard in place. Building control do not have a checklist but have indicated that if it is obvious where the cable goes then that would be acceptable. Does anyone have a list I can work to as I cant find one on net.?

Any pointers welcome.

Thanks

 

[ProDave]

Why are there JB's at first fix? Shouldn't it be designed so that ALL junctions are at accessories?

I write on each cable with a fine tip permanent marker what it goes so when you second fix some time later you know what they all do.

If they are clipped to the wall in safe zones, they will stay in safe zones and won't move, so what's the issue?

take photo's of anything that gets covered before BCO gets there.

 

[Andy™]

as above, why do you have junction boxes? i wouldnt expect any on a new build

 

[Blue Duck]

Hmmmm yes as the others have said there should really be no jb's they are so 80's don't you know?

 

[samson337]

May be he means jb's on the lighting curcuit, if spots are fitted on lighting, with flex down to lamp. But I wouldn't expect to see it otherwise.

 

[NozSpark]

as above, why do you have junction boxes? i wouldnt expect any on a new build

My thoughts exactly

May be he means jb's on the lighting curcuit, if spots are fitted on lighting, with flex down to lamp. But I wouldn't expect to see it otherwise.

On a new build surely you'd loop at the switches where down lights are planned???

Well I would anyhow.....

 

[sparkytim]

MF Junction boxes I hope !

 

[pewter]

I am interested to know if building controll want to send someone out and check all the cable routes before they are covered up, and how much they charge for this.

I assume they defiantly want someone to check everything at the end. That could take a day or 2 depending on the size of the house. Again what is the cost for this.

My local BC charge £2-300 a day for a visit.

Out if interest who has done the design and calculations?

Will you be testing and completing a certificate also?

If not does it mean you will not have a EIC? Just a EICR from the appointed contractor by BC.

What kind of list are you after?

My list would be,

Back boxes

Cables

Capping

Money

 

[samson337]

Yep exactly, i always look at switches, but my point was the op may have been referring to second fix by mistake, re jb's as I never take 2 twin to down lights only flex. but you have to loop one light to the other and that means using some kind of jb, mine are wago, end of. Sorry so my point being at some point there will be a jb at second fix. But I do add that some don't

 

[batty]

I took a job on once chap had wired it himself there were rakes of JB's under floor ended up rewiring most of it. Problem is people read DIY books and think that is the way its done.

 

[revor]

Thanks for the feedback so far it is much appreciated. To answer and clarify points raised.

Its not a full new build but an extension and refurbishment of the existing house.

JB's (WAGO)are on light circuit, loop in at light switches have advantages but can crowd the back box particularly where there are dimmers. Have had to put in some temporary fixed lighting as now getting too dark to work safer than extension leads everywhere.

Got the picture about first fix just basic cabling trunking etc but any more info welcome on this.

The fee for the inspection is in the building control payment I made at time of BC approval, pre 2010 LABC were responsible for carrying out Part P and were not allowed to charge extra if done by non registered folk. Many LABC's did try to make an extra charge but were pulled up by the dept of the Deputy Prime Minister that the charge was illegal and rules were changed for 2010. My BC approval was granted in 2008 hence LABC responsible My LABC now charge £300 for part p but the BC approval is less so cost works out about the same in total.

I have done the design which evolves as we realise that switches etc. are maybe not in the correct location or we need 2 way and intermediate switching. Where necessary also done the calculations but for the majority of circuits the specification is already done in the various tables in the published guides.

I will be doing my own testing to satisfy myself and keep the grey matter functioning but as I am not authorised to issue the relevant certificates then LABC are responsible, and as they do not have the in house skills to do the work themselves, have to ensure via their appointed contractor that the installation meets the requirements of the regulations.

 

[batty]

I generally use deeper boxes to get over crowding issues even use 47mm deep boxes sometimes.

 

[Nicky Tesla]

I have used 35mm surface boxes with a number of 1.5s to create a wago box fixed to woodwork in the loft of a bungalow so that only a single cable was needed to go to each fitting including switches; kitchen light ; outside light; kitchen unit lights and ex fan instead of looping in and out at each position.  Much easier.

 

[batty]

I hate lofts less  time spent up there the better. I will carry on looping at switches.

 

[Nicky Tesla]

i put it right near the hatch just in case.   You have to go up there anyway to run the cables

 

[Steve3948]

I have used 35mm surface boxes with a number of 1.5s to create a wago box fixed to woodwork in the loft of a bungalow so that only a single cable was needed to go to each fitting including switches; kitchen light ; outside light; kitchen unit lights and ex fan instead of looping in and out at each position.  Much easier.

Or you could just use a J701 or in old money RB4    :innocent