Anyone Know Anything About Dynastart

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NozSpark

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I've been replacing the auxillary switch panel (along with some rewiring) in a friend's boat and he's just tried the engine,,, the charging light wouldn't go out when the engine was running.

I did notice that the DF wire had come off the unit and it says that you shouldn't remove a wire (can't remember which one) while the engine is running or it'll permanently dammage the regulator.

So,, do you think that the regulators toast?

 
There must be something on line about them.

It's basically a motor / generator all in one so the same thing acts as the starter motor to get it going then the generator to charge the battery once started.

The usual trouble with alternators is running them with the battery disconnected as that can fry the rectifier pack. Is that what they are referring to?

Also (I only found this out recently) on a standard alternator, the "charge" light excites the field winding and a blown lamp in the charge light will stop an alternator charging.

I would check with a volt meter or ammeter to see if the thing is actually producing any charge or not.

 
I do believe they were a thing called a "Siba Dynastart" manufactured by Siba obviously!! I think quite a few things had them including those blue 3 wheeler invalid carriages that AC used to make.

Anyway, you can get bits...

http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/siba-and-bosch-dynastarts.php

Found this too!! ;

"If it is a reversing dynostarter it will not earth through the engine but through the black box. So first check is that the dyynostarter does not have a common contact with the engine otherwise when you connect the battery you will damage something. So there is the clue to work out the cabling in the absence of a wiring diagram, though sometimes the black box loom is illustrated in the lid of the black box.

Anyway the test for forward is connect the thick black wires B2/D+ to HE/92L and put B1/92+ on to the negative terminal of the battery and A/30b, the power cable from the regulator, to positive. This should rotate the engine forwards.

Leave A/30b where it is and swap B1/92+ into connection direct to HE/92L and place B2/D+ onto the negative terminal of the battery and the unit should now rotate in reverse, mimicking what the change over switch does.

The small black, UB, and red, UR, wires with are the points so should form no part of this circuit. The other thinner black wire with the removable tabbed terminal, DF, is the charging control wire back to the regulator. Lastly there is an earth wire purely as a convenient way to ensure a good common earth between the black box and engine when the units are in place. The battery is normally wired with earth to where that black box wire is connected to the engine on the cars I have owned using these type dynostarters. That does not mean it will always be the case though as I have not run all the odd Villiers machines up"

And even better!!!!!

https://anthonywillmott.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/getting-the-best-from-your-dynastart-practical-boating-magazine.pdf

john..

 
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Sorry about the earlier post,,,, I was just about to sit down to eat... I haven't eaten all day as I haven't been feeling too well :(

1. The engine starts and runs fine

2. The battery voltage (not running) is 13V

3. The voltage taken at the battery (engine running) is 12V

4. When the engine is running after the batteries have been charged (with a battery charger) the battery charge light remains lit

I haven't taken any current measurements as my mate was there bending my ear the whole time

It's not a reversing Dynastart BTW..... those links are interesting John :)

 
Don't know this particular DynaStart thing but a '12V' Lead acid battery on charge will quickly show between 12.5 and 14.4 volts according to the level of charge at that point. 

If it's really 12.0V engine running it's either not on charge or charged with one cell internally shorted.  

If It's 13V not running we can conclude no cells are shorted therefore the charge circuit is not operating correctly - probably the DF wire is the problem.

 
So, this, seems to be a dynamo & starter motor in one?

DF = Dynamo Field +Ve connection?

You also have D+, 30 & an battery negative connection probably through the engine block?

It has a separate charge controller & starter solenoid, and it's permanently geared to the engine flywheel?

 
Yes,

Yes,

Yes......and

Yes

I'm thinking of telling him that I can't do it..... I really haven't got the time... It needs to be done within a week or two at latest and with other jobs already being put on hold (see below) i can't fit it in.... I've already spent far too much time rewiring his 12V lighting and replacing his switch panel... just need to replace 2 x Navigation lights now (port [red] & starboard [green])

I'm 3/4 through a rewire (now doing the last 1/4 which will probably take 1/2 the time as it's in a large flat roof kitchen extension)

 
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