Assistance with a faulty Brook Motors manual starter switch for Phase 1 5Hp motor for grain milling machine

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Have you checked the centrifugal switch is not stuck ? First prove the centrifugal switch is normally closed with a meter/test lamps .
Try lubricating this, as this has to be closed then opens when motor shaft spins ?
Let me Know if this cures the operation procedure from Start to Run .
 
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Just found someones description of operation which might help :-
Capacitor-start motors use a capacitor in series with a winding and a centrifugal switch. At start-up, the cap is in the circuit to produce a phase shift, relative to the main winding, in the start-up winding. When the motor reaches some speed, the centrifugal switch will open, disconnecting the start-up winding. The overall effect is high torque at start-up, so the motor starts the load quickly. The current during startup will typically be several times the running current. The switch is a reliability concern, causing grief if it either fails to close or fails to open.

Permanent Split Capacitor motors have two windings, one directly across the line and one that always operates with a capacitor in series. Again, the capacitor produces a phase shift so that there is a "rotating" magnetic field to make things spin. PSC motors don't have great startup torque, but a blower isn't a difficult load to start and it doesn't matter if it takes a few seconds to come up to speed. The startup current isn't much higher than the running current. Reliability is improved because the mechanical switch is not needed. For a motor that starts up frequently, like a furnace blower, this is a big plus.

Capacitors are used for phase shifting for motors to run on single phase AC power. If three phase power is available (very rare for residential in North America), a motor that doesn't require caps can be used.
 
All true, but this particular motor also has the run winding split in two.
Whilst I can't easily follow the switch contacts operation I think it puts the two windings in parallel to start, then in series to run.
From the original posting I understand that it starts ok but won't latch itself in the run position, so not really a starting problem as such..
 
All true, but this particular motor also has the run winding split in two.
Whilst I can't easily follow the switch contacts operation I think it puts the two windings in parallel to start, then in series to run.
From the original posting I understand that it starts ok but won't latch itself in the run position, so not really a starting problem as such..
It's a long shot but just possible one or both capacitors are faulty. Capacitors especially electrolytic are normally the first to suspect as they look of a certain age. Could be just enough to start but not quite enough to run? Alternative if the fault cannot be found, of course is replace with a soft start inverter. But would still need the capacitors.
 
Hello

Thank you for your helpful comments.


Re: centrifugal switch

I have checked the centrifugal switch and this appears to be working fine. It can be easily moved by hand and with the cover off and the motor in the ‘start’ position, the centrifugal switch opens up okay.


Re: Overload device

I think I have found (part of) the device, but it appears there may be some cabled at the back of the board (between the board and the back of the case).

Attached are some photographs showing the ‘thermal indicator knob’ and what appears to be some sort of switch gear. I’m not entirely sure of what all parts are don’t know where I would put the multi-meter to check continuity of the overload device.

Some of the photographs were taken when the coil was removed and also the spark cover over the live and neutral inputs was removed.

If the photographs are unclear, I could try and draw a diagram of that it looks like.

Perhaps I need to remove the component board from the cabinet to see what is at the back?



Thank you for your help.

Please let me know if you require further information.
 

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Hello

Thank you for your helpful comments.


Re: centrifugal switch

I have checked the centrifugal switch and this appears to be working fine. It can be easily moved by hand and with the cover off and the motor in the ‘start’ position, the centrifugal switch opens up okay.


Re: Overload device

I think I have found (part of) the device, but it appears there may be some cabled at the back of the board (between the board and the back of the case).

Attached are some photographs showing the ‘thermal indicator knob’ and what appears to be some sort of switch gear. I’m not entirely sure of what all parts are don’t know where I would put the multi-meter to check continuity of the overload device.

Some of the photographs were taken when the coil was removed and also the spark cover over the live and neutral inputs was removed.

If the photographs are unclear, I could try and draw a diagram of that it looks like.

Perhaps I need to remove the component board from the cabinet to see what is at the back?



Thank you for your help.

Please let me know if you require further information.
Firstly, where is the screw from the terminal with the red wire? If that isn't connecting you may have found the issue. (Perhaps too easy!)
That is the overload device. Those horse-shoe shaped strips will be bi-metal, which bends as warmed by the current passing through it. They appear to push the horizontal paxolin strip which in turn engages with the overload device. Guessing, now, the visible contacts above the setting dial are probably the trip contacts in the circuit to the coil. Are they simply connected to the red and yellow wires ? Are the red and yellow traceable to the coil circuit ? If these guesses are correct there should be continuity between them.
 
Thank you.

The red and yellow cables attach to the STOP button on the rear of the cabinet door.

One black cable from the coil was connected to the red wire.
One black cable from the coil was connected to the top part metal strip of the vertical bent arm above the overload device.

The locations the two black cables from the coil terminate are shown by the pink circles on the attached photograph.
The coil is attached to the cabinet at the two green dots on the same photograph.

The screw and coil were removed to allow inspection and photographs.

See attached photographs
 

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