cables not in prescribed zones

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Reading OSG page 60, I'm a little confuzzled.

Basically what I have is a kitchen with a socket on one wall, I want to come off this socket to feed 2 spurs on the wall next to it. Unfortunatley I can't keep the cables at the accessory height as there is a window in the way and they will need to drop 150mm at least.

I know I would be safe using galv conduit but Isn't there something that states you can go out of a prescribed zone if using and RCD or have i dreamt this.

 
Reading OSG page 60, I'm a little confuzzled.Basically what I have is a kitchen with a socket on one wall, I want to come off this socket to feed 2 spurs on the wall next to it. Unfortunatley I can't keep the cables at the accessory height as there is a window in the way and they will need to drop 150mm at least.

I know I would be safe using galv conduit but Isn't there something that states you can go out of a prescribed zone if using and RCD or have i dreamt this.
I'm afraid you have!

 
Basically what I have is a kitchen with a socket on one wall, I want to come off this socket to feed 2 spurs on the wall next to it. Unfortunatley I can't keep the cables at the accessory height as there is a window in the way and they will need to drop 150mm at least.
providing the new socket is lower than the existing, there is nothing with going down from existing to new height, then along to new accessory

 
like this?

if so its still in the zone

.

zone.jpg


 
you can only run in any direction out of zones when using a method where the cable has high mechanical protection such as tube or its greater than 50mm deep

 
I am meaning when inside zones lost, I apologise if I have rattled anyones cage.AndyGuinness
that wasn't to you Zee ;)

agree tho that horizontal runs are not liked :x

 
floor is concrete, ceiling is a no go, this house is odd, very big and old, take up the floor boards upstairs and theres a 1m void then the existing ceiling, then under neath that a new false ceiling.

The sockets are all at 1100mm, but drop down to about 950mm to go underneath a window. I was hoping to cut out the plaster board and fish it through as its dot and dab with quite a bit of room, looks like I'll have to cut it out and put some tube in!

 
floor is concrete, ceiling is a no go, this house is odd, very big and old, take up the floor boards upstairs and theres a 1m void then the existing ceiling, then under neath that a new false ceiling.The sockets are all at 1100mm, but drop down to about 950mm to go underneath a window. I was hoping to cut out the plaster board and fish it through as its dot and dab with quite a bit of room, looks like I'll have to cut it out and put some tube in!
no all you need do is fit a blank plate at the height of the horizontal run if your new socket is not at that height

either above the work top or below if the blank plate will be "ugly"

.

zone2.jpg


 
no all you need do is fit a blank plate at the height of the horizontal run if your new socket is not at that heighteither above the work top or below if the blank plate will be "ugly"

.

zone2.jpg
would look a bit rough blank above the worktop,

if it drops below the worktop clip direct behined the unit and chase in above

 
would look a bit rough blank above the worktop,if it drops below the worktop clip direct behined the unit and chase in above
exactly why i mentioned below :x

yes then could go surface too Guinness

 
no need for the blank if its surface either
Because the cable would run down from 1 accsesory and across from the other

 
like this?if so its still in the zone

.

zone.jpg
I`ve got no issues with the drawing you`ve got there. Have done this previously.

Other common one is to chaase to just below the worktop, then let the cables run on the surface; as the cupboards will cover `em. Solves many a problem.

KME

 
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