Changing immersion heater

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evening all,

ive been asked to quote to install new feed for immersion heater - this im fine with, but also to change the actually heater too.

im pretty competent and plumbing and usually do all my own but this is a new one on me. i would like to do it for the experience but wondered if anyone can give me a step by step method..

the way im looking at it the tank needs emptying a little then using one of the immersion spanners undo it then change and re tighten. connect supply.

am i way off?

is there any type of sealant ill needand also what sort of time should i allow for doing the change?

thanks wayne

 
Have you got to replace the tank or just the element ?? if its just the element all you need is a box spanner to get element out (about 4 quid from Toolstation) and some PTFE to put new one in with. HTH

Ive just replaced heater element in mine and draining the tank took 3 hours ffs with drain valve fully open

Matt

 
Have you got to replace the tank or just the element ?? if its just the element all you need is a box spanner to get element out (about 4 quid from Toolstation) and some PTFE to put new one in with. HTHIve just replaced heater element in mine and draining the tank took 3 hours ffs with drain valve fully open

Matt
hi matt its just the element, would the tank need totally emptying or just a bit (the element is just off centre at top of tank) could you just turn the valve off that feeds the tank then turn hot taps on to drain? did it take long to actuall change the element after the 3 hours of draining the tank?

 
My plumber friend says no PTFE tape, just a little silicone lubricant on the threads until seated fully home. A tiny ooze of water swells the fibre washer and causes your seal.

Box spanner better than the ones with the single handle. If it's an old tank some can be a bugger to remove, especially if corroded or sealed tight with Boss White. You can crease the copper cylinder and need to replace it. Warn owner first!

A gentle tap on the box spanner better than continued twisting force when you are trying to break the seal. Beware the cylinder installed with immersion in-situ that is impossible to remove without removing ALL the pipework.

If it looks old proceed with caution!

 
Sorry I may have mislead you there a bit my 3 hours draining was because the tank is on the same floor as all the taps so there was no head on the tank so it took so long to drain. sorry. Also you may not need to drain the tank right off. The tank supplying my immersion heater is right on top of it so i had to un-plum the tank to replace the element. Badly designed but as im all on one floor-no other option. After draining it is a simple job but remember to leave the hot taps open (all of them) when refilling the tank to avoid airlocks.

HTH and sorry for the confusion I may have caused. Im no good at explaining things, but just glad to help someone for once. If i helped at all

Cheers

 
Whenever I've changed an element I've always cracked the thread open a touch with the tank full, then drain down enough to remove the element.

When you are refitting the new element all you need to do is clean the joint and face and fit the new element using the new gasket that is supplied.. you should not be using any other sealant or PTFE tape.

If the tank looks very old or deforms when I try and crack the thread then I call a plumber out to remove the element.

 
Whenever I've changed an element I've always cracked the thread open a touch with the tank full, then drain down enough to remove the element.When you are refitting the new element all you need to do is clean the joint and face and fit the new element using the new gasket that is supplied.. you should not be using any other sealant or PTFE tape.

If the tank looks very old or deforms when I try and crack the thread then I call a plumber out to remove the element.
Concur..

Perfectly water tight seal with just clean joint & new gasket! ;)

no need for extra cank to make it hard for the next poor sod who has to replace it next time!

 
evening all, ive been asked to quote to install new feed for immersion heater - this im fine with, but also to change the actually heater too.

im pretty competent and plumbing and usually do all my own but this is a new one on me. i would like to do it for the experience but wondered if anyone can give me a step by step method..

the way im looking at it the tank needs emptying a little then using one of the immersion spanners undo it then change and re tighten. connect supply.

am i way off?

is there any type of sealant ill needand also what sort of time should i allow for doing the change?

thanks wayne
You are on the right wavelength....

just be careful the cylinder don't buckle & crack cuz you are over zealous with your elbow grease trying to shift the element! :(

As Noz said try to loosen the joint first with Cylinder still full of water..

helps stop buckling! ;)

oh new bits :xApplaud Smiley

Just to add...

no need for any
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calcs or tests with getting the element out...

{just had to use the new bits admins added!Blushing:p:coat}

 
if a gentle tap doesnt loosen it then heat it up this wont take long

then put a damp cloth on it

the 'shock' breaks the seal and away ya go

i was showed this last week by a plumber genius

 
Just one small point to consider check if your insurance will cover you for doing this work before you do it. The reason I say that is if you are insured for electrical work and then you flood a house doing plumbing work then will they pay out? Don't want to be left to pay for all that. I've been and fault found a couple of times and diagnosed a faulty immersion and told customers both times to get a plumber to do it - too much hassle and potential for problems for me to be bothered with for what I'd make out of it.

 
stick a hose in the top of the tank (often with something like a hammer taped to it to weight it down) with other end outside - suck the water through and it will empty on its own

 
will it need draing totally down or just abit ie below the immersion element hole. will opening the taps be enought to drop water level lower then the hole?
the tank will never empty by opening the taps. you may be lucky and have a tank with a drain valve. there will always be water to at least half the volume after no water coming from taps, its just the way they work

is it an ellison tank or cylinder?

 
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