Cooker control?

[Foxmeister]

Currently doing a re-wire and the kitchen will be on its own ring. Cooker setup is seperates, gas hob with leccy ignitor, leccy oven and an extract hood. Which is the best way to incorporate the cooker into the ring??? Obviously just a spur for the hood, low level skt for the oven, but does this have to be controlled by a cooker switch of some sort at worktop level, or just a double pole switch even, or does it even have to be controlled from a worktop switch at all??? If so does said switch have to be marked "Cooker" or anything???

 

[ElectekAir]

The cooker is a heating appliance and must be on its own cct (you cant put it on the ring)

You can however put a switched fused spur off the ring for the ignitor and one for the extractor

 

[Foxmeister]

The cooker is a heating appliance and must be on its own cct (you cant put it on the ring)You can however put a switched fused spur off the ring for the ignitor and one for the extractor

Ok, thanks mate. So ideally, the hood and igniter can be supplied as normal from ring, but just need a radial circuit to supply the actual oven itself and make it cooker cct?

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

The cooker is a heating appliance and must be on its own cct (you cant put it on the ring)

Not according to BS7671 Big red! or the On site guide...

Its ALL about the rating of the appliance NOT what the appliance is!

Ovens rate no more than 2k CAN go on a ring..

check note (iii) on page 362

and

Cooker circuits can supply Multiple cookers..

check 8.4 page 160 of on site guide!

Personally myself I would always put a dedicated circuit in for a cooker..

allows for a higher power oven to be installed later when the owners find 2K is carp when trying to do Christmas dinner!

(as they always do) when they need a Double Oven!

Guinness

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

...........does this have to be controlled by a cooker switch of some sort at worktop level, or just a double pole switch even, or does it even have to be controlled from a worktop switch at all??? If so does said switch have to be marked "Cooker" or anything???

If my heads working right..

I don't think there is an actual wiring reg stating that an item of equipment MUST have a switch...

537.4.1.1 is sometimes referenced but it can be debated either way.

This is in the same category as do you need a shower switch or can an MCB be used?

They do need a means of isolation... but an MCB is an acceptable means of isolation table 53.2 page 117 big red..

But the building regs do require suitable means of isolation and/or operation to be accessible even when built-in appliances are fitted...

Personally I alway fit a worktop height isolator of some sort.....

Always consider the hypothetical scenario...

My elderly parents are in the kitchen and smoke and spark start coming out of an aplliance... I want to know that they can quickly and easily kill the power to the said-faulty item before the house burns down...

so I don't want them to have to shift all the pots and pans and cereal packets from the cupboard to have to get to a concealed switch!

But that said tis up to you!

:|

 

[Foxmeister]

Would always usually fit a switch myself just debating with a colleague as he reckons you have to which i was sure wasnt stated. Thanks for the info guys.

 

[ProDave]

Personally I would feed the oven AND the hob from the same dedicated cooker circuit and isolating switch, with a CCU behind the oven and the hob.

Then from the hob's CCU I would connect a 13A socket, via an unswitched FCU if you feel necessary, for the hob to plug into (igniter only in this case)

This has two advantages. Firstly both parts of the "cooker" are isolated by the same switch labelled "cooker", and secondly if they, or a future owner want to change the gas hob for an electric hob, the wiring is already in place.

 

[Foxmeister]

Personally I would feed the oven AND the hob from the same dedicated cooker circuit and isolating switch, with a CCU behind the oven and the hob.Then from the oven's CCU I would connect a 13A socket, via an unswitched FCU if you feel necessary, for the hob to plug into (igniter only in this case)

This has two advantages. Firstly both parts of the "cooker" are isolated by the same switch labelled "cooker", and secondly if they, or a future owner want to change the gas hob for an electric hob, the wiring is already in place.

Thanks for input, personally this is how i would normally have done this myself on all installations, but had worked with some guys who seem to vary slightly, just wondering if i was being too set in my ways.

Wouldnt bother with the FCU then socket for hob, just socket and internal fuse to protect would be enough id have thought.