Cutting a back box in tiles

[meady]

Hi chaps...I have got a small job on later and it requires me putting a switched fused spur in for supplying an outside light. The easiest place to take power is from the kitchen socket ring. My only problem is the kitchen is fully tiled so I will need to cut a hole in the tiles to get a back box in.

Can anyone suggest the best way of doing this and what tools will make the job easier.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Masking tape,

permanent marker, (draw round edge you want to cut.)

NICE NEW DRILL BITS!

there are proper tile bits, but TBH 90% of the time unless the tiles are megga posh thick, heavily glazed jobbies...

a bog standard drill bit will go though then.

But DONT put hammer on, until you are through the tile!!!!

Tile file can be a help to tidy up the edges.

e.g.

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do;jsessionid=V5M42LX3SMC4UCSTHZOCFFY?_dyncharset=UTF-8&fh_search=tile+file&searchbutton.x=7&searchbutton.y=9

Small tub / tube of ready mixed Fix & grout tile adhesive, just in case you need to patch or fix a loose bit.

some tiles aren't always stuck proper to the walls...

when you start cutting.. bl00dy things fall off!!! :^O

makes it easier to cut the back box hole though.. then re-stick tile back on after! :|

 

[spinlondon]

A 4" angle grinder can be quite usfull as well. Make certain it's got a stone blade in though.

 

[300TDI]

If you have a dremel these are worth their weight in gold, just set it to required depth and follow the line that you have marked out

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=19681&src=froogle

 

[kme]

If you can, utilise an edge of a tile, to make either an "L" cut, or, at worst, a "U" cut in the tile. If you can, try to remove the tile (carefully), by removing the grout around it FULLY with a dremel or stanley knife, etc. Cut the tile with a wet-cut tile cutter ideally, as this leaves better edges. Then re-grout.

Optionally, drill a large-ish hole, at an angle from an adjacent tile toward the socket you want supply from. Themn put your F/S on as a surface unit, with the cable travelling out the back to the socket you`re using for supply.

HTH

KME

 

[Andy™]

step 1: 'accidentally' break tile

step 2: get on with job

 

[NozSpark]

I'd use my PMF180 with a riff blade

http://www.mtmc.co.uk/product.asp?numRecordPosition=10&P_ID=34399&strPageHistory=&strKeywords=&SearchFor=&PT_ID=12732063

although the blade didn't cost me that much from B&Q

 

[kme]

You`re just showing off now!

 

[NozSpark]

If you've got it flaunt it

TBH I bought this tool hopeing that I'd use it,, now I use it on nearly every job I go to.. It's a great tool and if it breaks I'll probably get a Fein; now I know how much I use it

 

[batty]

I would check to ensure cables do not go vertically but I am sure you have already done that when checking you can spur of said socket. I always ask if they have a spare tile just in case it gets broke when drilling. I would then drill series of small holes around where box is going break tile out and then cut into material below for box.

Batty

 

[Apache]

New, sharp drill bits for tiles. If you rotate the chuck by hand backwards and forwards (with a little forward pressure) you crack the glaze and it stops things skidding around.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

I would check to ensure cables do not go vertically but I am sure you have already done that when checking you can spur of said socket. I always ask if they have a spare tile just in case it gets broke when drilling. I would then drill series of small holes around where box is going break tile out and then cut into material below for box.Batty

That is another very important point Sir Batty!!!Applaud Smiley:x

Can be easier doing the job knowing you have patching tile(s) to work with!

 

[batty]

That is another very important point Sir Batty!!!Applaud Smiley:xCan be easier doing the job knowing you have patching tile(s) to work with!

Thats the worst thing if you break the tile when cutting it and they don't have any spares you'll have to:coat and do a runner.