Danfoss 'Y' plan problem

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NozSpark

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Just been out to 2 CH faults today (both of them danfoss) and have come across a problem.

I cannot for the life of me get them to work with only a CH demand. HW works fine, but CH will not work unless the programmer is set up as a gravity.

I have checked the wiring against the Danfoss wiring diagram and they seem to be wird correctly.

The second one that I visited had a room stat wired incorrectly

L to L

N to NO

SW L to NC

Not only did the stat fail, but it took the programmer with it; and now after replacing the stat and programmer it won't work as above!

Any help would be great

:_| :_|:_|God I hate Y plan and anything Danfoss:_| :_| :_|... give my a Honeywell system (especially 'S' plan) any day:)

 
do you have a HW OFF to the mid position? i had a fault similar a while back, turns out when it was installed, they never wired that part so couldnt have CH without HW

 
from the screwfix instructions, have you followed 'diverter' or 'mid position'?

and what did you do with the link marked 'wire if programmer has heating only position'

 
apart from a loose connection somewhere, im not sure what i might be. ill have a look over some other diagrams tomorrow and see if i can work out what it may be

 
if wired correctly should be fine,

danfoss are crap, i always replave with a metal head either tower or honeywell..

check the head is working usually the motor/micro switch is goosed,

on heating only is the power to the valve,? if yes is there power to the boiler/pump?

if yes and to the valve and no to the boiler/pump will be the head.

if no, work back... power to and from room stat ? power from programmer on heating only.

you can test everything in the 10 way usually.

hopefully all the wires are identified.. usually not though . :(

 
It must be a day for heating faults, mine today was on a 2 year old megaflow system, the problem started yesterday.

Danfoss timer indicated CH on but boiler doesn't fire up, only way to get CH to work was to advance the HW & manualy open the honeywell CH port valve.

Knacker'd Valve.

While there I rectified a diy induced fault on the BT line. "since we installed 3 extra outlets the phone is quiet & sound weird when ringing".

Cutting out the the cap on the 3 master sockets used as extensions did the trick.

 
Cheers jl,

I was starting to think that the head was goosed, it is actually an ASL ?? valve so it is pretty old.

You say the wires are easy to identify in the 10 way

Well if it had a 10 way I might have half a chance:_| :_| , but they all have individual bits of choc block and are then all crammed into a 1 way box with a blank lid. Going back on Monday afternoon with a 10way wiring centre which should hopefully simplify things and if it still doesn't work then I will get my plumber friend to replace the valve (see if I can get him to go honeywell 'S' plan) :D :D

 
Cheers jl,I was starting to think that the head was goosed, it is actually an ASL ?? valve so it is pretty old.

You say the wires are easy to identify in the 10 way

Well if it had a 10 way I might have half a chance:_| :_| , but they all have individual bits of choc block and are then all crammed into a 1 way box with a blank lid. Going back on Monday afternoon with a 10way wiring centre which should hopefully simplify things and if it still doesn't work then I will get my plumber friend to replace the valve (see if I can get him to go honeywell 'S' plan) :D :D
I have had them like that myself as you say start again with a 10 way jb and at least then you no where you are going.

Batty

 
Cheers jl,I was starting to think that the head was goosed, it is actually an ASL ?? valve so it is pretty old.

You say the wires are easy to identify in the 10 way

Well if it had a 10 way I might have half a chance:_| :_| , but they all have individual bits of choc block and are then all crammed into a 1 way box with a blank lid. Going back on Monday afternoon with a 10way wiring centre which should hopefully simplify things and if it still doesn't work then I will get my plumber friend to replace the valve (see if I can get him to go honeywell 'S' plan) :D :D
tower are cheaper and have the same inserts ie: switch and motor.

usually same centers to so you jut leave the nuts on and swop the whole thing.

 
if i have a wiring centre i rip it out and drop a 10 way block in .

seriously

 
I did one a couple of months ago for a plumber I do some work for and I wish I had done that. In the end though it all worked perfectly on the first go even though the boiler and programmer were 15 meters away from the wiring centre, 2 port valves, and tank stat (as usual the room stat was remote from both!!) and the boiler required pump run on!!

 
Got to say Andy, that I find those honeywell wiring centres more complicated than a simple 10 way block. At least with a 10 way block you can see exactly where things are connected.
definatly agree there. did a job a while back with one of those and it turned out to be a nightmare.finally got the problem sorted, but at one stage i was about to go get some connector block out the van. they do have their uses tho

 
3171266421


here

had this little beauty today . :) and yes it did work.

 
That link doesn't seem to work jl;

however looking at your gallery it looks just like the one I went to see, but mine was in a 1 gang box!!

Went back to it today, across the ice rink of a road, and put in the wiring centre. In the end the blinking thing still didn't work...... needs a new 3 port valve (leave that to the plumber though)

 
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