Difficulty of connecting 45A DP shower switch using 10sqmm cable

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says-les

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Re the above, using the deep pattern box, I find it is almost impossible to fit the wires into the box and mount the switch. Considerable force is required thus creating potential compression faults in insulation resistance tests. I refer to the standard square switch. Is it the case that the rectangular style switch should be used which has the greater length. If so, what about a ceiling switch? This is just as bad to connect, and there seems to be no larger or deeper mounting box.

Les

 
+ 1

crabtree 50A should make life easier

 
Thanks, Andy and Steptoe, but is there sufficient space to "lose" the tails, without great force?

 
you dont need to push anything back, plenty room inside to fold conductors over, into terminals, then fit cover (the cover is just that, the connections are on the bit on the ceiling)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks, Andy I understand you now - cheers!

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 22:11 ---------- Previous post was made at 22:09 ----------

OK, Guys sorry to ask such a basic question. It was bad enough before they made the 9.5 kW shower where 6Sqmm was sufficient.

 
If you have the 2 x 10mm T&E entering the pattress with L&N for supply and load lined up correctly (on the right side) it is a lot easier. If you have any cables crossing over it's much harder.

 
Assuming a ceiling mount try to get the cable in such a position that they disappear up the centre cutout when you put the switch in position.

Assuming surface mount - oh dear! Cut cables as short as you dare and pre-form as far as possible - and hope for the best. Can be a swine to get terminals tight - but if you don't you know what happens!

Wall mounted - use a 2G switch to give yourself more play.

Otherwise call a plumber and run it off the gas boiler!!!

Good Luck

 
i agree with the above

but am i the only guy who think they are flippin' ugly

good prep and getting the cables fed correctly isnt that tight...practice

Andy,Steps,Tom1 Kerch look at the easy quick option but i expect all could do a cheapy when required ( now 'like' me you people ! )

 
As everyone else says the crabtree switch is excellent no messing whatsoever. Other switches are a menace and you should bring a spare for when you throw the first out the window.

 
Pull switches are a menace full stop and old fashioned remember a normal switch can be in a bathroom these days in certain zones not that I would put one in.

 
i agree with the abovebut am i the only guy who think they are flippin' ugly

good prep and getting the cables fed correctly isnt that tight...practice

Andy,Steps,Tom1 Kerch look at the easy quick option but i expect all could do a cheapy when required ( now 'like' me you people ! )
i like u:x

 
As everyone else says the crabtree switch is excellent no messing whatsoever. Other switches are a menace and you should bring a spare for when you throw the first out the window.
and a spare patress box

 
As the others have said , go with the Crabtree 50A .

But if using the square type pull switch , as we've said before on here, make sure you bring the two Twin/Earths into the box lining up opposite each other in their L-N and Live - Load positions, there is not the room to swop them around .

Lets face it ...10mm is a PITA .

 
Lets face it guys nearly every provided manufacturers terminal is too small for the job, I never use any lighting terminals simply because they are far too small,I rip them off the lighting and apply my own sensibly and adequately sized terminals.

The crabtree 50 amp pull switch is an exception to their range, other terminals they provide are very poor just like all others. I use 2.5mm more and more for lighting circuits and I am almost forced to use the click system just so I can terminate cables within a single enclosure.

 
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