DIY Question - Splitting off bathroom lights mains

[Ashielli]

Hi all!

First up - I'm not an electrician, this is purely DIY. I have a *little* bit of electrical knowledge (degree in computer networking) but I'm not a qualified electrican or even one in training - please be aware of that when replying .

So the situation is - My bathroom has a light, an extractor (which comes on / goes off immediately when the ceiling pull-switch is pulled; it's not on a timer), and the extractor also has an isolator switch.

My bathroom was not wired with power/shaver points and I'd like to add power to the bathroom, as safely as possible obviously.

My first thought was to simply run some 3-core mains from *before* the light switch (pull switch) and put that into a waterproof box.

The issue is that I cannot figure out how the wiring here actually works in terms of what lead goes to where.

I've looked inside the pull-switch rose and while earth terminates inside the switch box, live and neutral go through a simple switch to break the circuit. I'm concerned that my original plan will just leave mains on to the light/extractor all of the time and I'm trying to figure out which cables actually go where so that I can figure out the best place to run a mains lead from.

Ideally I want the mains power that I'm running to be "always on", not affected by the switch or isolator, whilst letting the light/extractor fan still function as intended.

I have a diagram of what I can currently see (solid lines) and some guesses at what is going on "behind the scenes" (dotted lines) as well as before/after diagrams.

There's also a photo of the inside of the light switch - the only "exposed" part of the mains here that I can easily get to

I can't post those images here but I've uploaded them online if you want to see: https://imgur.com/a/EopVdxY

Essentially what I had is three places that I could potentially take power from - The switch, the light or the extractor. I figured the switch is the only place where there should currently "always" be live mains. My plan was to replace the current pull switch with a junction box that would go back into the pull switch (which would be moved to next to the junction box), but *also* split the power here into a second mains lead and put that into the back of a waterproof box, to hold the plug etc. See diagram

My questions are - would this work? How is the mains likely wired through my switch/light/extractor? And what would be the best way to achieve what I'm trying to do.

Thanks!

 

[UNG]

The only answer to your question is get an electrician in as you are clearly out of you depth from what you have said and the pictures you have linked to

 

[Fleeting]

Sorry @UNG but does no one ever respond to questions on here. I am a new member but this place seems like an empty void.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Hi all!

First up - I'm not an electrician, this is purely DIY. I have a *little* bit of electrical knowledge (degree in computer networking) but I'm not a qualified electrican or even one in training - please be aware of that when replying .

Degree in computer networking has as much relevance as a degree in dress making or quilting...

A lot of electrical work in bathrooms/shower rooms, falls within the remit of Part-P building regulations..

which require it to be correctly designed, installed, tested and certified by a competent person..

You seem to be struggling with the concept of how a light works..

A light switch MUST have a live in, a switched live out and an earth..

A light fitting MUST have a switched live in, a neutral and an earth..

How they are looped and/or connected in the real world can be achieved in numerous ways..

But you are wanting a Live, Neutral And and Earth..

which may or may not be in either of the locations you assume they are..

The location of Bathroom accessories MUST also comply with the Zones defined in BS7671 wiring regulations..

So as UNG said the best solution is to get a competent electrician in to ensure it is all electrically safe and compliant..

Although any one doing DIY can get things to work..

ensuring safe and correct installation of a product that can kill a healthy adult in less than a second is of upmost importance in areas where risks are higher..

such as bathrooms!

I would recommend professional assistance.

Guinness  

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Sorry @UNG but does no one ever respond to questions on here. I am a new member but this place seems like an empty void.

Clearly they do...    As both UNG & you have..

to a post only added 4hrs ago..    on an Easter weekend..

Not all members are scanning the forum on a 24/7 continual check for posts..

Some only pop on once or twice a day..

when they have some spare time..

opcorn

 

[UNG]

Sorry @UNG but does no one ever respond to questions on here. I am a new member but this place seems like an empty void.

The OP clearly has extremely limited electrical knowledge and no test kit and wants advice on modifying a circuit in a bathroom.

So what is your answer / response to the OP's question then or do you consider giving a how to do it answer / response may result in a potentially dangerous wiring modification as well.

Please, disengage your empty void before hitting the keyboard criticising a reply made in the best interests of the safety of the OP and any visitors to his property

 

[revjames]

As others have said its easter weekend. Not everyone is on here ready to jump in with advice. Bathrooms are special locations and specific considerations have to be made. Best consult a spark for the best solution.

 

[binky]

Hi all!

First up - I'm not an electrician, this is purely DIY. I have a *little* bit of electrical knowledge (degree in computer networking) but I'm not a qualified electrican or even one in training - please be aware of that when replying .

So the situation is - My bathroom has a light, an extractor (which comes on / goes off immediately when the ceiling pull-switch is pulled; it's not on a timer), and the extractor also has an isolator switch.

My bathroom was not wired with power/shaver points and I'd like to add power to the bathroom, as safely as possible obviously.

My first thought was to simply run some 3-core mains from *before* the light switch (pull switch) and put that into a waterproof box.

The issue is that I cannot figure out how the wiring here actually works in terms of what lead goes to where.

I've looked inside the pull-switch rose and while earth terminates inside the switch box, live and neutral go through a simple switch to break the circuit. I'm concerned that my original plan will just leave mains on to the light/extractor all of the time and I'm trying to figure out which cables actually go where so that I can figure out the best place to run a mains lead from.

Ideally I want the mains power that I'm running to be "always on", not affected by the switch or isolator, whilst letting the light/extractor fan still function as intended.

I have a diagram of what I can currently see (solid lines) and some guesses at what is going on "behind the scenes" (dotted lines) as well as before/after diagrams.

There's also a photo of the inside of the light switch - the only "exposed" part of the mains here that I can easily get to

I can't post those images here but I've uploaded them online if you want to see: https://imgur.com/a/EopVdxY

Essentially what I had is three places that I could potentially take power from - The switch, the light or the extractor. I figured the switch is the only place where there should currently "always" be live mains. My plan was to replace the current pull switch with a junction box that would go back into the pull switch (which would be moved to next to the junction box), but *also* split the power here into a second mains lead and put that into the back of a waterproof box, to hold the plug etc. See diagram

My questions are - would this work? How is the mains likely wired through my switch/light/extractor? And what would be the best way to achieve what I'm trying to do.

Thanks!

so you are planning on putting a socket in the bathroom for an Alexa? 

Your light switch only has lives, no neutral. somewhere above the ceiling will probably be a juction box of some sort for lighting that could be utilised a a source of a permanent feed. If there isn't then you would need to tap into the feed for the lights. But your lack of knowledge wuld also suggest you should get someone in to do the job. 

 

[Geoff1946]

If you really want Alexa in the bathroom with you plug the low voltage adaptor in in the hallway and if necessary use a low voltage extension lead.

I wouldn't recommend it though as I doubt if they are made to cope with the humidity, but at least you won't electrocute yourself.

 

[Fleeting]

The circuit will also require additional rcd protection if not already in place and likely notification to Building Control under Part P of the Building Regulations. 

 

[boltonsparky]

Without intending to cause offence this has all the ingredients to make up one of the DIY nightmares that we've all come across.

Forgetting anything safety/regs/Part P related having an IP65 box with an alexa coming out is going to look horrendous and as mentioned how do the alexas fair up in a steamy environment?

You'd be far better installing a bathroom ceiling speaker and somehow connecting the alexa into this. 

You definitely need to get an electrician on board to asses your existing installation and advise accordingly.