Domestic Meter resite

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claret73

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Hi

Have been to look at a job that involves a Meter move, from inside of house to opposite side of wall to the outside. He is speaking to EON to get guidance on this & pricing.

Anybody have any info on what a Meter resite is likely to cost?

If he goes ahead with this, I'm having to relocate CU into Hallway, again just a case of installing new board other side of the partition wall it is currently on. Apart from a few things I need to investigate further, I'm wondering on the routing of the Tails out of the DP Isolator within the Meter back into the house.

If I back entry through the cupboard & it's a cavity wall (?) best bet would be in 20mm conduit per Tail. My main concern is zoning the cable? If I came straight out & down to go under boards chased in, would this be acceptable? The zone being the meter on the outside wall?

Cheers

 
Obviously I can't see the job but I'd do it in surface trunking myself. You have the pain in the ass 50mm deep stuff to account for or fit an RCD as a main isolator by the meter ,which you need to avoid if posible.

By zones I presume you mean Safe Zones, which are fine except that in reality only other electricians know where they are. I have never met another tradesman , householder , DIY,er or kitchen fitter who knew they existed .

As for cost of moving meter, if it includes re-routing the supply cable as well, I'd guess at around �400 but you need to ask the network company.

Customer will have to supply and fit a meter box and hockey stick by the way.

Deke

Edit :

 
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By zones I presume you mean Safe Zones, which are fine except that in reality only other electricians know where they are. I have never met another tradesman , householder , DIY,er or kitchen fitter who knew they existed .
Indeed. My aunt seemed supprised that they managed to hit a lighting cable when putting a hook for a pic up right above a 3 way light switch.

 
That about sums it up Ian .

I noticed on a new build house about 3 years ago, two plastic water pipes came up out the floor then split to curve diagonally upwards to the floor above, before being covered with the dry lining. You wouldn't have a clue when hanging that picture.!!!

 
That about sums it up Ian . I noticed on a new build house about 3 years ago, two plastic water pipes came up out the floor then split to curve diagonally upwards to the floor above, before being covered with the dry lining. You wouldn't have a clue when hanging that picture.!!!
few years ago put up an outside light. gas meter outside, pipe heads through wall. other side of wall is some boxing. pipe leaves gas meter and looks like it does into this.

i drill my hole 800mm to the side of the boxing, and about 200mm to the side of meter box, and hit gas.

 
Great !!! Don't you just love it sometimes ?

Years ago I rewiring a small guest house in Llandudno, its Sunday afternoon, I'm fitting the very last twin surface socket box in a rear utility. Bench height ,middle of wall ,drill two fixings, one of them is no good, drill a third one, last fixing on the job, water is now gushing out of the wall all over the drill and me.

Customer dashes into the street and spends 20 mins trying to turn the gas off !!!

The water stopcock is on the corner of the road and shuts the whole road off!!!

It turned out to be a lead pipe ,flush in the wall, run from the top right corner of the room,diagonally to the bottom left and then out to the outside loo .

Always when you think you are on your way home with the cash in your sky rocket, it happens.

 
Well, after it all went off Topic from Post 2, I've sorted out the conundrum & it isn't wiring in YT2...

Am going to await EON's response, might never happen & if it does will agree with them to fit a switched fuse in cupboard & run out SWA externally back into house, adaptable box then Henley 25mm Tails into Board.

Seems the best & neatest option I've found. Too many issues taking Tails through Cavity & chased in.

 
Why not use 25mm 2 core swa? take it out of the meter box straight down on the outside and then in through the wall at the right level. No buried cables with zones or RCDing to worry about.

The armour only needs to be earthed at one end, so do that at the meter end. Cut the armour off just below the CU and just take the 'twin' inner into the CU. Alternatively cut one end out of a galv box and use it like a bracket to terminate the armour just below the CU and just take the twin inner into the CU as suggested above.

Run a seperate 16mm earth alongside it.

Last meter move I was involved with it cost

 
Was it Andy who posted a picture of drawing pins stuck fully in surface trunking
it was me. almost forgot about that

here it is again

DSCF2800.jpg


 
I've had one just like that in an office is was pricing some work in..

I took it out and stuck a "post it" on it saying "This is not a pin board... live electric cables within" (or something to that effect)

Didn't get the job in the end:(

 
Round my part of the world EDF are the network operators, so any provider has to go through them. They now ask to have to a 'flow chart' check on any service alteration, even if its moving an existing service head with no additional loading.

An insider told me it because a couple of guys have recently got caught doing illegal connections and one kept a diary. They did not realise how wide-spread the illegal jointing was so now when ever possible (such as a request for additional meters or service head move) they check every service against what is registered, even though legitimate meters may have been fitted. This now adds additional costs and time to a job enquiry.

 
I had met one of the main culprits on a job. I did not realise he was moonlighting till i was told after he had gone. EDF have been going through his diary and cutting off all the connections he made and charging double for a reconnection. One of the other dodgy guys was using stolen meters. The sh*t hit the fan when tenants applied to a different provider.

 
if you are going to get it done on the side you may as well ask for a joint and no meter:D

 
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