Downlighters in overboarded/skimmed ceiling

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m4tty

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Hi,

I'm going to look at a job tomorrow which is putting in 6 downlighters in an upstairs bedroom (loft above).

The current ceiling is being overboarded then skimmed and I've got to fit downlighters after.

1) What downlighters are best as the ones I've used in past will only fix nice onto a single plasterboard? Any advice

2) The insulation used in loft is very old which has been poured between the joists ontop of plasterboard. It's like sawdust tbh but is not flammable as owner took some out in garden and tried to light it when he moved in in 1982. He doesn't want this insulation pouring through the downlight holes when he changes bulbs. He spoke about fire hoods but I explained these are not needed and would work out expensive way of doing it especially when they're not needed. I said a plasterboard box would be better or old clay flowerpots. What do you guys recon?

Thanks in advance for any pointers/advice.

Cheers

Matty

 
Just clear an area around each down lighter. Anything you put over the down lighter will increase the heat contained within, and lamp life reduced ...significantly in some cases.

In loft area's, the surrounding through air will keep these types of fittings from heating anything up to a point of combustion. But always best to measure to ensure fixture is away from any joists etc....

 
JCC downlighters (and others) have three positions for attaching the side springs , choose one of the upper ones for double boarding.

To keep the insulation carp off the fittings Denmans are now selling a plastic box (

 
Now you know Sandra why I don't bother with this type of work

All I have to worry about is some MP's daughter not putting up a TV correctly and it falling on her toenail spoiling the new red lacquer, then the .gov will likely introduce Part TV

 
Fire rated downlighters are built to fit into a double thickness plasterboard ceiling, as that's what building regs require when making a ceiling above say a garage.

 
Fire rated downlighters are built to fit into a double thickness plasterboard ceiling, as that's what building regs require when making a ceiling above say a garage.
Not completely true your meant to use a fire line plasterboard ( the pink one) although you are right double board with 12.5mm does the same job.

 
Had an extension with 300mm of insulation in the roof void, so made up some plasterboard lined box's as fire hoods just to keep the downlighters from overheating, would never use anything else, think I used some TLC cake tin ones on another job.

Mike

 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm pretty sure this place has no cpc in the switch drops which are in conduit. I was planning on trying to pull a single down the conduit to give the switch an earth. Ideally it would be a 1.0mm but I've got some 2.5mm single green and yellow. Would you class this as rough if I pulled in the 2.5mm?

If I can't manage to pull an earth in and the customer doesn't want the wall chased, can I still fit the downlighters and note on cert that switch not earthed and no metal switches to be used?

Thanks

 
Not completely true your meant to use a fire line plasterboard ( the pink one) although you are right double board with 12.5mm does the same job.
This does also depend on the local council/building and they all seem to vary.

---------- AUTO MERGE Post added at 19:30 ---------- Previous post was at 18:27 ----------

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm pretty sure this place has no cpc in the switch drops which are in conduit. I was planning on trying to pull a single down the conduit to give the switch an earth. Ideally it would be a 1.0mm but I've got some 2.5mm single green and yellow. Would you class this as rough if I pulled in the 2.5mm?If I can't manage to pull an earth in and the customer doesn't want the wall chased, can I still fit the downlighters and note on cert that switch not earthed and no metal switches to be used?

Thanks
Rather than trying to pull in a single for the earth would it not be easier to pull in new 1.5 t&e? you might also have to change the back boxes as some older properties have back boxes with no earth lugs. you would have to do this on all switches/lights on that circuit tho. if customer doesnt want that done cant see a prob with the down lighters as they should be double insulated (class 2 ). note on the cert that the circuit has no cpc and only class 2 fittings/switches can be used and also put a warning label on ccu that the circuit (with circuit number) has no cpc and only class 2 fittings are to be used. think wording for label for ccu can be find in on site guide, have printed my on in the past as have never seen any to buy.

 
Using 2.5 earth for your switches is not "rough" ,if you have some in stock. As said, might be easier to pull a new 1.0 T/E down . Some of those old switch drop tubes are not very big !!

 
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