If you employ someone registered with a scam provider (like most electricians), you do not need to involve LABC. LABC is only involved if someone not scam reg'd does the work (i.e electricians not reg'd and DIYers)
extractor fan
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I think 'sparktobe' was being deliberately argumentative and unhelpful because someone asked for general advice.
I think it was a facetious answer, not at all helpful!
If we go with Steps point that he's going to do it anyway, why not guide him to do it correctly and NOT use flex's earth as a sw live.
'sparktobe' is new and maybe doesn't realise we are a friendly forum, not one that berates the general public and/or each other?
Just my opinion :|
I think it was a facetious answer, not at all helpful!
If we go with Steps point that he's going to do it anyway, why not guide him to do it correctly and NOT use flex's earth as a sw live.
'sparktobe' is new and maybe doesn't realise we are a friendly forum, not one that berates the general public and/or each other?
Just my opinion :|
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Is anyone going to have a go at answering OP?
I am prepared for correction or to be told that I am wrong but here's what I'd do...........
I would use a voltage detector to make sure they both remain live when the switch is operated. Also is there an existing fan? Could one of these go to the fan? If there's no fan AND voltage remains despite what you do with the light switch, It is likely these two are the feed in and out of the light.
You need to cut one of the red and black wires somewhere there's some slack and install a junction box (4 way). Red is live, black is neutral, copper unsheathed is earth. You need some 3 core and earth wire coloured black, brown, grey and unsheathed copper earth and a bit of 2 core and earth with brown (live), blue (neutral) and unsheathed copper earth. Run a length of 2 core and earth from the JB to the pull cord and a length of 3 core and earth from the JB to the 3 pole isolator, and from the isolator to the fan
You need to connect to the two red lives of the existing cable to the brown of the 3 core and the brown of the 2 core. Then connect the two black neutrals of the existing supply to the grey of the 3 core and earth (usual to apply some blue sleeve or even blue insulating tape to identify the cable as neutral. Connect the Black cable from the 3 core and the blue cable from the 2 core into another terminal and sleve both brown (this is the switched live). In the final terminal sleeve all the exposed copper earths seperately in green and yellow sleeve and screw down tightly.
At the pull cord connect connect the brown to the common and the blue (sleeved brown) to L1.
I have now found a diagram I have modified as getting sick of typing
Note the sleeving of the various conductors - makes it easier for yourself and any spark who may come along later.
Basically:
red is old and brown is new live
Black is old and blue is new neutral
If wiring already protected by RCD that should be fine, but push the test button a few times to make sure it's working!
Where is the fan going to be positioned? Is it a 12V or a 230/240V one? There may be a transformer required too.
Don't prat about with 5A junction boxes get a decent sized 20A+ and they are far easier to work in.
I stand back to be corrected...
I am prepared for correction or to be told that I am wrong but here's what I'd do...........
you need to do a bit of detective work - follow some cables etc and try to find out what those two cables are going out of the light. Assuming that you have identified the wire to the switch and discounted it - it is likely that these wires are the feed into and out of the light. Can you see where they go? You could post a pic of the light fitting wiring?
I would use a voltage detector to make sure they both remain live when the switch is operated. Also is there an existing fan? Could one of these go to the fan? If there's no fan AND voltage remains despite what you do with the light switch, It is likely these two are the feed in and out of the light.
You need to cut one of the red and black wires somewhere there's some slack and install a junction box (4 way). Red is live, black is neutral, copper unsheathed is earth. You need some 3 core and earth wire coloured black, brown, grey and unsheathed copper earth and a bit of 2 core and earth with brown (live), blue (neutral) and unsheathed copper earth. Run a length of 2 core and earth from the JB to the pull cord and a length of 3 core and earth from the JB to the 3 pole isolator, and from the isolator to the fan
You need to connect to the two red lives of the existing cable to the brown of the 3 core and the brown of the 2 core. Then connect the two black neutrals of the existing supply to the grey of the 3 core and earth (usual to apply some blue sleeve or even blue insulating tape to identify the cable as neutral. Connect the Black cable from the 3 core and the blue cable from the 2 core into another terminal and sleve both brown (this is the switched live). In the final terminal sleeve all the exposed copper earths seperately in green and yellow sleeve and screw down tightly.
At the pull cord connect connect the brown to the common and the blue (sleeved brown) to L1.
I have now found a diagram I have modified as getting sick of typing
Note the sleeving of the various conductors - makes it easier for yourself and any spark who may come along later.
Basically:
red is old and brown is new live
Black is old and blue is new neutral
If wiring already protected by RCD that should be fine, but push the test button a few times to make sure it's working!
Where is the fan going to be positioned? Is it a 12V or a 230/240V one? There may be a transformer required too.
Don't prat about with 5A junction boxes get a decent sized 20A+ and they are far easier to work in.
I stand back to be corrected...
green-hornet
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I agree and have answered so in another post.
If anyone is going to do it anyway I would rather they do it right than mess it all up.
This is a friendly forum, I would not be here if I thought differently.
Most questions appear stupid to me, because I have done the job for a long time, but I have to remember there was a time when I asked stupid questions.
Remember there is nothing wrong with asking for help, if I needed it I would ask, because I would rather I ask and be told than to assume and get it wrong.
If anyone is going to do it anyway I would rather they do it right than mess it all up.
This is a friendly forum, I would not be here if I thought differently.
Most questions appear stupid to me, because I have done the job for a long time, but I have to remember there was a time when I asked stupid questions.
Remember there is nothing wrong with asking for help, if I needed it I would ask, because I would rather I ask and be told than to assume and get it wrong.
paddy, that drawing is brilliant,
wish i could do **** like that sometimes,
wish i could do **** like that sometimes,
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I stole it and edited out the light and changed the colour of some of the wirespaddy, that drawing is brilliant,wish i could do **** like that sometimes,
sarni31
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I may be wrong here ... so dont shout at me :coat
presuming the feed is from the consumer should the 'next light' line not be connected to 'A' the switched live of the pull cord so as to switch the fan and light on at the same time ? Surely as it is the lights on all the time ?
Guiness Drink
presuming the feed is from the consumer should the 'next light' line not be connected to 'A' the switched live of the pull cord so as to switch the fan and light on at the same time ? Surely as it is the lights on all the time ?
Guiness Drink
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Nah - I was assuming he cut the feed before or after the light.
The glitch is that a switch was wired into the diagram I erased it. OP wants the fan on it's own pull cord independent of the light
paddy, that drawing is spot on, and will turn the fan on and off with the light, including an over run, plus the ability to isolate fan if not required/maintenance,
just how it should be wired.
correctly colour coded too.
just how it should be wired.
correctly colour coded too.
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it could if wired from A to C
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the original
paddy has just posted a drawing of a ceiling rose, where would you suppose the light would be?
and yes, it is a ceiling rose, JBs are somewhat different in there diagram pictures.
and yes, it is a ceiling rose, JBs are somewhat different in there diagram pictures.
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not in my diagrams
We'll be getting him to use wago's next...........................
