Floodlight

[m4tty]

Hi,

Ive attached (hopefully) some pictures of a floodlight which was on the outside of a warehouse.

What im looking for is for someone to explain exactly how it works. This one doesnt work but im looking for a way of testing the gubbins inside to check what is broken and hopefully fix it.

Any information is appreciated or any links which explain how these work.

Thanks

 

[m4tty]

Nope cant attach pictures (dont worry)

 

[m4tty]

Try again lol

 

[m4tty]

And again lol

http://s1201.photobucket.com/albums/bb346/m4ttyd/

 

[m4tty]

Its worked for me but im signed in to photobucket. Hopefully it will work

Cheers

 

[Sidewinder]

m4tty,

I can see the pics but they are really small on my screen.

It looks like a discharge lamp, a ballast in there?

 

[m4tty]

Thanks for the reply. There is a ballast in there with a Capacitor. Just wanted to know if there was any way of testing these so I can find out what the problem is with this fitting and maybe fix it.

Cheers

 

[septiclecky]

Could be either a Son or Mercury.

Change the lamp making sure you are using a external ignitor lamp, if that don't work it's then change ballast and ignitor together. Capacitor is for PF correction.

Some wholesalers you can buy a control gear tray for a straight swop.

 

[Andy™]

very easy how they work....

you have 2x ignitors in that pic. there is an unconnected one next to the cap (poss failed & replaced?).

wiring diagrams are on the ignitors. most common are semi-parallel & superimposed. those types in the pic are superimposed.

incoming L goes into ballast and out of other side. this then goes into L of ignitor. L out goes to your lamp. neutral goes to ignitor & lamp. all discharge requires an ignitor. some are built into the lamp (I in triagle on lamp), other require external starter (E in triangle on lamp). dont use external ignitor on lamps wth one built in. or no ignitor

you can test ballast by measuring resistance accross the terminals. there are usually 4 terminals. older have term 4 as an earth, newer has term 4 for 240v. term 1 is live in, 2 is for semi-parallel ignitors, 3 is 230v (240v on older). you can test ballast by measuring resistance between terminals. cant remember value, but i have some 70/150/250/400 ballasts if you want the readings. if ballst ok and new lamp, most likely new ignitor req'd

if it doesnt work, its often easier to change both ignitor & ballast at the same time. also remind user that a blown lamp left in fitting will damage the ignitor, so replace lamp soon as

yours looks like 250w going by ballast size?

 

[moose man]

[quote name='Andy

 

[Andy™]

depending on style of lamp its sometimes easier replacing the gear. and some its easier replacing the fitting

 

[moose man]

the type we have are mini flood light sector if thay were more exspensive units then as you said replace the switch gear

 

[m4tty]

[quote name='Andy

 

[Andy™]

the ignitors are usually DI. the nut is simply a fixing point. some ignitors do have a metallic case. not sure if they actually need an earth or not

cant remember the reading for 250w, but it sounds about right. ill check a new ballast tomorrow for you

ignitor is wired incorrect. you have the neutral where the live from ballast should be. swap the 2 outer. middle is correct. but this may have already destroyed the ignitor

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

I had exactly the same problem last week except it was an expensive designer bollard. I got a good deal on all 3 components so i didnt bother testing them.

I thought most new discharge lights used internal ignitors but recently have had quite a few with external ?

 

[Andy™]

depends on the make / quality / price - external ignitor are much better, and cheaper lamps, so over the life cheaper. but internal ignitor is cheaper to make

IIRC, council streetlighting will only install fittings with external ignitor, and wont 'adopt' streetlighting with internal ignitors

 

[m4tty]

Thanks alot guys much appreciated

 

[Andy™]

im surprised you didnt spot the L&N reversed m4tty

and if you do get a new ignitor, make sure you check the wiring diagram incase its different

 

[Ian Speirs]

Also before changing expensive parts, just check the connections are still ok. Loose or burnt out terminals are also a common cause of flood light failure. Especially in the lamp holder.

 

[m4tty]

[quote name='Andy