Fridge running constant - too cold

[Barx]

I can finally post something, been struggling like mad to connect (as have some others).

OK, so I have a Beko, tall larder fridge and it has been working fine and dandy for 2 yrs +. I then notice the milk was colder than usual 1 morning so I checked if someone had caught the stat and turned up by accident. Nope.

I turned the stat down a bit over time until it was all way down to 1 just it is still the same.The compressor is constantly running, there is frost on back inside of fridge and it is too cold inside.

I have changed the stat but no joy. I also tested bth stats by sticking them in the freezer. Both seem to operate ok and quite quickly.

Turning the stat off completely shuts the fridge down so i dont think itis a wiring issue.

The only thing i can think is that the stat line has detached from the evapourator inside the housing, but i cannot see how to get to it for love nor money.

any ideas?

 

[Sharpend]

Have you checked the model against those that are recalled, didn't Beko have an issue with their appliances catching fire? 

As as for not being able to connect I was having this problem so cleared history and cache and now all is well again. 

 

[Andy™]

any ideas?

use it as a freezer?

 

[phil d]

Just a thought,is the boost switch turned on? A lot of modern units have a boost switch to fast cool the cabinet,for example when you put a lot of food in.The boost button overrides the stat and the unit keeps running until the boost is switched off,there's normally an orange light that comes on when it's in boost mode.

 

[Marvo]

I know it sounds counter-intuitive but depending on the arrangement of the refrigeration circuit being slightly short of gas can cause the symptoms you describe .

 

[Barx]

Have you checked the model against those that are recalled, didn't Beko have an issue with their appliances catching fire? 

As as for not being able to connect I was having this problem so cleared history and cache and now all is well again. 

I'm sure I checked at the time, but will double check, thanks for the reminder

use it as a freezer?

Already got 1

Just a thought,is the boost switch turned on? A lot of modern units have a boost switch to fast cool the cabinet,for example when you put a lot of food in.The boost button overrides the stat and the unit keeps running until the boost is switched off,there's normally an orange light that comes on when it's in boost mode.

No boost switch on it, nor defrost circuit, it's a simple model. Good shout though.

I know it sounds counter-intuitive but depending on the arrangement of the refrigeration circuit being slightly short of gas can cause the symptoms you describe .

I had debated that myself too, but wouldn't it be running constant because it couldn't get down to temp due to lack of gas?, if it is this is a viable fix or a bin and replace job? Think the unit was about £250 in first place.

 

[Marvo]

Not necessarily with a domestic. I don't work on domestic fridges and I don't know your particular fridge so I'm making assumptions here but if the t/stat bulb is physically located at the far end of the evaporator then gas shortage would make that area of the plate relatively warm meaning the t/stat constantly stays closed. The other 90% of the evaporator plate would be cold and still capable of causing internal cabinet temperatures to get too low and eventually freeze your lettuce.

To confirm, ideally you need to use a suction gauge but when the internal temp is very low and the compressor is running you could check the suction pipe at the compressor (the biggest diameter pipe), if it isn't collecting condensation or at least if it's not cool to touch (< body temp) then the chances of gas shortage are high.

Just be careful with more recent generation fridges there's a chance the gas they contain is highly flammable.

 

[Barx]

Not necessarily with a domestic. I don't work on domestic fridges and I don't know your particular fridge so I'm making assumptions here but if the t/stat bulb is physically located at the far end of the evaporator then gas shortage would make that area of the plate relatively warm meaning the t/stat constantly stays closed. The other 90% of the evaporator plate would be cold and still capable of causing internal cabinet temperatures to get too low and eventually freeze your lettuce.

To confirm, ideally you need to use a suction gauge but when the internal temp is very low and the compressor is running you could check the suction pipe at the compressor (the biggest diameter pipe), if it isn't collecting condensation or at least if it's not cool to touch (< body temp) then the chances of gas shortage are high.

Just be careful with more recent generation fridges there's a chance the gas they contain is highly flammable.

This sounds sounds exactly like the problem i'm having. After your answer I checked the temp of the unit low down and it is indeed warmer. And that is the area the stat seems to reside. After making some enquiries it seems for a standard cheap domestic fridge, the cost of finding the leak, repairing and re-filling the gas outways the cost of a new unit. A shame as it has been a great fridge and it still looks pretty much new.

Ah well, wife will be happy.....

Thanks for the answers on the topic guys.

 

[Marvo]

Yeah, it's a waste as you say but with the disposable and built-in obsolescence nature of appliances it's the way things are. Unfortunately in most 1st world places fgas legislation requires that old gas is recovered (not dumped to atmosphere). If the gas is flammable it must be vacuumed or purged from the system and the leak testing takes time etc so it wouldn't be financially viable. Also most of the pipework is buried in the foam that they squirt in between the inner and outer shell of the cabinet making it inaccessible for leak testing and subsequent repairs .

You could visually check for obvious leaks yourself, wherever there's a gas leak there will also be oil leaking because the oil from the compressor travels around inside the refrigeration pipework circuit along with the freon gas. On the slim chance the leak is somewhere obvious and accessible then a repair should be viable.

The highest probability is that the leak will be on the door heater circuit pipework and not accessible. When I reluctantly get fridges from family and friends that have slow leaks that aren't easily evident I disconnect and bypass the door heater pipework entirely and it's about a 50/50 that it sorts out the issue. You may find that doing this in a colder climate like the UK causes the freezer door to stick because of it freezing to the door frame however.

Finally there are some leak-fix solutions that can be added into the fridge that supposedly seal the leak. Many manufacturers often forbid the use of these products and they will void any warranties etc. From experience they're also hit and miss in their effectiveness and to even get them in the system requires recovering the gas charge and fitting a schrader valve so you'd need to get a fridge guy to do it.

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