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Hi Greengardener,

Ah, now therein lies the problem. None of us understaood really where you were "coming from" as it were. I for one did not realise your level of skill..

Soooo, Sorry for that, welcome to the forum, and hope you stick around!!!!!

P.S. Do you have any motorbikes, lathes, milling machines or welders??? [Cos we like them things here!!]

john..

 
Hi Greengardener,

Ah, now therein lies the problem. None of us understaood really where you were "coming from" as it were. I for one did not realise your level of skill..

Soooo, Sorry for that, welcome to the forum, and hope you stick around!!!!!

P.S. Do you have any motorbikes, lathes, milling machines or welders??? [Cos we like them things here!!]

john..
No worries probably my fault with my writings. As previously said its to ensure that the job is going to be done correctly with regards to what is proposed by sparky. And with knowledge that I can have and that I can maybe gain I will know everything is above board i.e installed correctly!!!!  :Blushing  Motorbikes too scary for me Im afraid  :signthankspin:

 
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Are you affectively saying if you have changed many lights switches 1/2 way multiple intermediates, installed consumer units, understand problems that arise from ccu change i.e (N-E fault/Borrowed N), understand current carrying capacities for cables including voltdrop, breaker selection, test single/3 phase i.e (ZS,PFC etc) max disonnection times, Max ZS per breaker type, fault find, Main bonding/Supp bonding, install TT system, Class1/2 fittings. Then you are still not "worthy" to enquire about something you may not be familiar with?. And you would have to have done every single thing electrical to be "worthy to ask" a question that you would already know the answer too  :facepalm: .  Ps I was working in the trade for 6 years but never had to deal with a external subboard  never obtained NVQ but got to 2391 stopped 6 years ago hence why Ill get someone to do the work who through their tickets is allegedly competant but still want to make sure it is done correctly!

cheers!!!


we can only go by the information we have available. in your case, that was just about nothing

 
we can only go by the information we have available. in your case, that was just about nothing
Fair enough I did not provide my credentials but did state I was getting someone to install and wanted to make sure what they were going to propose was correct!

 
Am i dreaming this, many years ago when plastic plumbing was just a twinkle in the manufacturers wallets , even a outside tap on a new build house  ( which would be TNCS) was meant to have an insulating link  to avoid any 'export'  ?

 
Nothing in GN5 now about oil except basically you can't use an oil pipe as an earth electrode.

Basically the same in GN8.

With a few flowery bits about pipes between buildings.

 
OK, outside taps:

GN5.

14.6.11 PME and outside water taps

Under an open circuit supply neutral condition, the potential of an outside water tap (with metal pipework bonded to the main earthing terminal) will rise above Earth potential. A person coming into contact with the tap could receive an electric shock, which could be severe if that person were barefooted. The probability of these two conditions occurring together is considered to be small so that the use of PME where a metal outside tap exists is not precluded.

It is recommended, however, that a plastic insert be provided in the pipe to the outside water tap or the tap be plumbed with plastic pipe. Care should be taken to ensure that simultaneous contact with metal pipework on each side of the insert is not possible if there is likely to be a potential across the insert under this condition.

GN8, nothing about outside taps.

 
those who insist that all pipes under the boiler are linked in a bit of 4mm?
Or as I saw a while ago...

4mm across the water inlet to a gents urinal header tank down to the flushing downpipe

and then another onto a yellow lug on the Stainless trough

or at a customers of mine where every room has a 6mm from the ceiling grid to the metal trunking behind

 
I remember a story back in the old "bond everything" days, back then they even bonded aluminium window frames, apparently a window cleaner was electrocuted when cleaning one of said windows. There was a fault in the property and the earths were live, not a problem for those inside however it didn't do the window cleaner any good. I seem to remember some years back there was talk of outside lights being earthed via a rod as they were outside the zone, there was much joking about having a nice fitting on the front of the house with a lump of GY running from it to a rod, recently I believe I heard mention of it again but can't remember where.

 
why dont we do the installations like tnc where its rodded and tied to neutral at the same time that way if earth goes live its ground by rod and if the rod degrades to a bad point the the neutral bonds it aswell best of both worlds or am i thinking again.

 
I've worked on a couple of installs that way Badge ,  but Home Office Approval is required .

The Neutral & Earth are the same conductor through out the installation  . 

One job was as an apprentice , Halls of Residence for B,ham University.   The object is to save money .     A sockets say, were wired in single core pyro with earth tail pots & extra long tails. 

Centre core is Live ...the earth tail looped from the box to the neutral term  ... to the earth term but must be continuous not cut .  

Distribution boards were metal ...no Neutral bar , just the earth bar .

The other job was a depot & workshops ...instead of pyro it was a flexible butyl concentric cable ..single core with a braided sheath .  Never seen the stuff before or since .   job was a nightmare   , specially light fittings ...pratting about with all the bare braids .

Some of these places had Crown Immunity and when it was removed they had to work to the IEE Regs  ..erm..14th edition I suppose. 

 
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