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andy_spark

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A customer is having a new kitchen fitted and has selected the Get Ultimate flat plate Stainless Steel accessories to compliment their stainless steel splash guards etc. They've selected them from the screwfix book, GET 2-Gang 13A Switched Socket Black Ins Black Nickel | Screwfix.com I've never fitted this range before, has anyone had any experience? are they easy to fit?

Thanks Andy

 
Used it recently and only a 25mm box required. Went for the screwless ones (well they have them but they are not seen)

Just seen the link they are the same ones

 
Used it on a local refurb [F Huge.....]

Deep boxes are better if possible

touch dimmers are carp and burn out after 6 months

touch dimmers on a 2 way use a retractive switch so only 2 wires neede to remotes not 3

grid switch stands proud of wall 3mm due to the plastic frame behind the plate , can look sh!te

screws are not long enough...get studs

other than that it is ok, but I have used better............... :coat

 
I'll be using deep boxes to keep things easier and no dimmers required so that avoids that problem.

Only sockets, 13A FCU and cooker switches to be used.

Just double checked screwfix book and that says sockets are DP, website says SP:shakehead!!!!! I'll have to check GET technical website/catalogue.

Thanks.

 
I used some from screwfix - I think they were these ones. IIRC you need to make 100% sure that the box is mounted dead straight at the sockets have a plastic rim which sits tight inside the edge of the box.

 
I'd echo the need for 35mm boxes.

Also make sure you mount your boxes so the edge of the box is no more than 2 - 3mm below finished surface level so that the tiler cannot cut his tiles so that the edges overlap into the box area or you'll have trouble fitting the faces.

Make sure the tiler is well aware of this requirement and make the customer aware that if you have to 'fettle' any tile edges it'll cost him dollar.

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AND make sure the back boxes do not end up even slightly proud of the surface or the socket will gap to the wall. They have no tolerance for this.

These sockets are fantastic quality and really look the business, but I dislike them because they are so fickle to fit.

 
another point, I dont know if these are prone or not, but most flat plate are,

leave more than 1"centres between your boxes, most flat plates overlap too much and wont fit on a standard centre.

 
another point, I dont know if these are prone or not, but most flat plate are,leave more than 1"centres between your boxes, most flat plates overlap too much and wont fit on a standard centre.
Good Call!

Forgot about that one, c0cks up the use of spacer bar boxes and those new funky 2+1 boxes! I actually spotted this and spaced all my boxes using a coupling an 2 bushes. Money was not really an issue on this job,,,i like them like that! and when they ask you at the end of each week what they owe you AND you get paid on the following monday you don't mind going that bit extra! These are the only type of domestic that I like!!!!

 
AND make sure the back boxes do not end up even slightly proud of the surface or the socket will gap to the wall. They have no tolerance for this.These sockets are fantastic quality and really look the business, but I dislike them because they are so fickle to fit.
I anticipated this would be the case with the tolerances, and I wasn't expecting them to be straight forward to fit. I'll make sure they sit just behind the surface as all the sockets, switches and cooker switch are in new position I'll be chasing them out. Then the walls will have a laminate type splash guard in the same style as the worktop, I'm guessing it is just a few mm thick, but I'll make some enquires.

Thanks for the note about leaving a big enough gap between switches etc to cover the overlaps and for using 35mm boxes, I'm all for keeping things simple.

Thanks for the replies

 
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