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alworth26

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hi all i want to hard wire 3 out door lights on a radial circut , can i break in to the lighting circut in the house conect a jp run a suppy from the jb to a switchable fuse spare then from there to my 3 out door lights useing the fused spare as my light swith, would that be ok, chhers al

 
Sounds reasonable to me...

Just need to make sure the outside cabling bits are suitable for the environment..

e.g.

are there any long runs along the outside

will there be any outside joint between the 3 lights

anything susceptible to UV' rays, mechanical damage, excessive damp.. etc....

;)

AND..

if any bits are crossing the garden it is notifiable to LABC for compliance with Part-P.

:Salute

 
Yes, but much of your terminology is wrong, gave me a headache reading it.

What is the MCB/fuse on the circuit, what is the current loading, what is the expected additional load?

If you wanted to add 3 X 500W flood lights that's more than a 6A breaker can take.

 
hi all i want to hard wire 3 out door lights on a radial circut
No problem with that.

can i break in to the lighting circut in the house
Yes you can, so long as (already pointed out by patch) the circuit can take the extra load & dont forget about the possibility that an rcd may need to be installed (depending on cable installation method).

conect a jp run a suppy from the jb to a switchable fuse spare
By jp I assume you mean JB as in junction box? if so then yes that would be one way of joining to the existing circuit.

Switchable fuse? do you mean a switched fused spur, if so I cant see the reason why youd want to if you are comming off the lighting circuit, that should be rated to 5 or 6amp in most domestic enviroments. You would need to fuse down if you came off the socket circuit.

then from there to my 3 out door lights using the fused spur as my light switch
Use a normal light switch if you have extended from the existing lighting circuit.

And not forgetting all the usual stuff that DIYers tend to ignor about part P & notifiable work + testing & certificating the work.

 
Sounds reasonable to me...Just need to make sure the outside cabling bits are suitable for the environment..

e.g.

are there any long runs along the outside

will there be any outside joint between the 3 lights

anything susceptible to UV' rays, mechanical damage, excessive damp.. etc....

;)

AND..

if any bits are crossing the garden it is notifiable to LABC for compliance with Part-P.

:Salute
cheers mate im going to be runing the cables in the loft space and comeing out the cavity at each light so all the cables are hidden, the lights are 50 watt each, the lighting circut im breaking in too has a 6amp breaker, im going to run the new lights in 1.5mm flex and in my fuse spare i was going to put a 3amp fuse

---------- AUTO MERGE Post added at 00:06 ---------- Previous post was at 00:02 ----------

No problem with that.Yes you can, so long as (already pointed out by patch) the circuit can take the extra load & dont forget about the possibility that an rcd may need to be installed (depending on cable installation method).

By jp I assume you mean JB as in junction box? if so then yes that would be one way of joining to the existing circuit.

Switchable fuse? do you mean a switched fused spur, if so I cant see the reason why youd want to if you are comming off the lighting circuit, that should be rated to 5 or 6amp in most domestic enviroments. You would need to fuse down if you came off the socket circuit.

Use a normal light switch if you have extended from the existing lighting circuit.

And not forgetting all the usual stuff that DIYers tend to ignor about part P & notifiable work + testing & certificating the work.
thanks for the help im not a DIYers lol;)

 
cheers mate im going to be runing the cables in the loft space and comeing out the cavity at each light so all the cables are hidden, the lights are 50 watt each, the lighting circut im breaking in too has a 6amp breaker, im going to run the new lights in 1.5mm flex and in my fuse spare i was going to put a 3amp fuse
No need to fuse down. Might be an idea to fit a DP isolator instead of the fused spur - that way you have complete isolation if moisture got into a fitting and you couldn't reset the RCD.

 
No need to fuse down. Might be an idea to fit a DP isolator instead of the fused spur - that way you have complete isolation if moisture got into a fitting and you couldn't reset the RCD.
thankyou for your help

 
method 2 anyone?

default_tongue%20in%20cheek.png


:p

:C

:coat

 
No problem with that.Yes you can, so long as (already pointed out by patch) the circuit can take the extra load & dont forget about the possibility that an rcd may need to be installed (depending on cable installation method).

By jp I assume you mean JB as in junction box? if so then yes that would be one way of joining to the existing circuit.

Switchable fuse? do you mean a switched fused spur, if so I cant see the reason why youd want to if you are comming off the lighting circuit, that should be rated to 5 or 6amp in most domestic enviroments. You would need to fuse down if you came off the socket circuit.

cheers so how would you wire the

Use a normal light switch if you have extended from the existing lighting circuit.

And not forgetting all the usual stuff that DIYers tend to ignor about part P & notifiable work + testing & certificating the work.
cheers so how would you wire the switch

 
Welll...................

NO!!!!!

I`m NOT going to say it.........................

Yes, I am......................

1. Live in

2. Switched Live out.

Job ist komplete, ja?

 
Welll...................NO!!!!!

I`m NOT going to say it.........................

Yes, I am......................

1. Live in

2. Switched Live out.

Job ist komplete, ja?
:)

would you put earths in terminal block

 
Welll...................NO!!!!!

I`m NOT going to say it.........................

Yes, I am......................

1. Live in

2. Switched Live out.

Job ist komplete, ja?
What if the switch is marked 'C' and 'L1'????

:eek:

 
:) would you put earths in terminal block
Not if the switch is class 1

Not if the switch / back box have an earth terminal.

Otherwise - ..................................still no. I`d probably crimp `em through, IF I had taken 2 cables to it - if only one, and it wasn`t required to terminate there; I`d oversleeve it, and fold it up in the box.

---------- AUTO MERGE Post added at 00:14 ---------- Previous post was at 00:11 ----------

What if the switch is marked 'C' and 'L1'???? :eek:
it is, what would you advise :)
Oh, sorry. I didn`t realise this was a "wind-up"

I thought it a serious question.

Can I please request all future members` "joke scenarios" are put in the joke thread. Thanks.

Why do I bother??????? :coat

 
Not if the switch is class 1Not if the switch / back box have an earth terminal.

Otherwise - ..................................still no. I`d probably crimp `em through, IF I had taken 2 cables to it - if only one, and it wasn`t required to terminate there; I`d oversleeve it, and fold it up in the box.
right ive broke in to lighting circuit with a jb and creating a radial with 4 lights on it ive broke it to it again with a switch before the first light, switch will turn all 4 lights on there is no switch wires, so ill have a cable comeing in to my switch with a line neutral and earth and will have to connect the same going back out to compleast the circuit my question is how do i wire that in to a 1gang 2way switch, :)

 
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