How much would you charge to do this?

[jibspark]

Hi All!

as im sure most of you are aware by now i dont do alot of my own work, i mainly subcontract for larger contractors, However, im tring to do more of my own work.

anyway, ive been asked to quote for this job and wondered what you would all charge for labour.

Install Mains Powered Door Bell

replace light fitting in downstairs hall

replace light fitting in upstairs hall

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #1 (Fire Rated)

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #2 (Fire Rated)

Remove Light In Bedroom #1

Remove Light In Bedroom #2

Remove Light & Pull Cord in Bedroom #2

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #1

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #2

Replace 6 x LV Spot Lights in Bathroom

Remove Light fitting in kitchen

Install 2 light fittings in Kitchen

Chase Ceiling In Kitchen

Replace 22 Double sockets with flush fit Chrome

Replace 1 x 3G Dimmer with flush fit chrome

Replace 6 x 1G Switch with flush fit chrome

Replace 1 x 3G Switch (2 x 1way 1 x 2way) with flush fit chrome

Replace 1 x TV Ant Socket with flush fit chrome

Replace External Light fitting

Test & Inspect all work carried out & issue certificate

The ceiling in the kitchen is in accesable so the only way i can think of wiring is to chase the ceiling, is this how you would all do it?

any help on this would be very useful! i told the client i would send the quote in the next day or so.

 

[Andy™]

you will need to work out roughly how long it will take. depending on access etc, there may be too much variations to give a proper guide

for downlights, if you can get above then chasing the ceiling where joists are is the only way. this can be very time consuming. and if there is insulation in there, can make getting cables accross even more awkward

 

[jibspark]

they are surface mounted lights in the kitchen.

Do you think approx

 

[Robojin]

Hi All!Replace 6 x LV Spot Lights in Bathroom

Don't forget these would need to be IP65 and covered by RCD, personally I'd stay with 230v, transformers are a PITA!

Probably best think in day(s) and a daily rate, don't feel obliged to rush, work at your pace and safely, as GH has said a number of times, your price needs to reflect your overheads + profit, don't worry too much about if the customer might think the jobs worth only

 

[green-hornet]

I would not chase anything into a ceiling.

Best way is to crop circle!!

Use a hole cutter the size you can easily work with, I have no problem working with 4"

Make as many holes as you need to rod the cables through, save the cut outs, and replace when the cables are in, slate batten or a peice of 3x2 screwed into place, filler to fill the gaps and bobs your auntie job done.

Pricing work it out per day, and what you need to earn for that day.

If it takes you 3 days, then two days is for wages and 1 day for bills, or visar versa

Remeber the new regulations for energy efficiency, and the up comming ban on the use of energy guzzeling lighting systems.

 

[Andy™]

i use the holesaw method too. but often, the pieces done go back in!

 

[Robojin]

and the up comming ban on the use of energy guzzeling lighting systems.

GH care to expand on that comment please

 

[green-hornet]

Yes there is legislation out now for a phased ban on non efficient lighting.

Starting in 2010 the first types to go are the gls 100amp, followed by any coated lamp filament ie soft lights or pearl as they are commonly named, all Fluorescents, which will be replaced with triphospherous.

I will try to find a link for you.

 

[Apache]

Yes there is legislation out now for a phased ban on non efficient lighting.Starting in 2010 the first types to go are the gls 100amp, followed by any coated lamp filament ie soft lights or pearl as they are commonly named, all Fluorescents, which will be replaced with triphospherous.

I will try to find a link for you.

They would cost a lot to run! How do you terminate the 25mm in the ceiling rose

sorry :|

 

[green-hornet]

They would cost a lot to run! How do you terminate the 25mm in the ceiling rosesorry :|

:^O LOL just seen what I typed I did mean 100watt not amp lordy lordy I am going to bed my head is frazzeled.

I have some pdf documents but they are too large to upload, and I can not find the original site that posted the graphics for the phase out of the lights.

 

[Apache]

:^O LOL just seen what I typed I did mean 100watt not amp lordy lordy I am going to bed my head is frazzeled.I have some pdf documents but they are too large to upload, and I can not find the original site that posted the graphics for the phase out of the lights.

I thought you mean watts

Goodnight GH - I need sleep too

:z

 

[jibspark]

Don't forget these would need to be IP65 and covered by RCD, personally I'd stay with 230v, transformers are a PITA!Probably best think in day(s) and a daily rate, don't feel obliged to rush, work at your pace and safely, as GH has said a number of times, your price needs to reflect your overheads + profit, don't worry too much about if the customer might think the jobs worth only

 

[jibspark]

I would not chase anything into a ceiling.Best way is to crop circle!!

Use a hole cutter the size you can easily work with, I have no problem working with 4"

Make as many holes as you need to rod the cables through, save the cut outs, and replace when the cables are in, slate batten or a peice of 3x2 screwed into place, filler to fill the gaps and bobs your auntie job done.

Pricing work it out per day, and what you need to earn for that day.

If it takes you 3 days, then two days is for wages and 1 day for bills, or visar versa

Remeber the new regulations for energy efficiency, and the up comming ban on the use of energy guzzeling lighting systems.

That makes alot more sense but what do you do when you get to a joist or nogin?

 

[ianmacd]

Drill a pilot first to check.

 

[jibspark]

Drill a pilot first to check.

What I meant was what about getting past them.

 

[ianmacd]

If you can't go over it then part M, centre holes blah blah blah....

 

[jibspark]

If you can't go over it then part M, centre holes blah blah blah....

Do you use an angle drill for that? Because there is no way I'm gonna fit my drill and a wood bit in a 100mm hole in the ceiling!! LOL

 

[Robojin]

Would they need to be ip rated as they are outside the zones?

As the designer it's your decision, but you must take into account 'external influences' so although direct splash is unlikely there is condensation to consider, the additional cost is minimal and all the DL's will look the same so worth it

 

[ianmacd]

Do you use an angle drill for that? Because there is no way I'm gonna fit my drill and a wood bit in a 100mm hole in the ceiling!! LOL

A right-angled one yes. Can you not get into the floor void above?

 

[jibspark]

A right-angled one yes. Can you not get into the floor void above?

no, it's a flat roof single story extension.