How much would you charge to do this?

[jibspark]

As the designer it's your decision, but you must take into account 'external influences' so although direct splash is unlikely there is condensation to consider, the additional cost is minimal and all the DL's will look the same so worth it

That's a fair point.

 

[Theorysparky]

joists

i would notch them and then use safe plates over the cable then plaster

is it any different from under floorboards,,,,mechanically protected

 

[NozSpark]

Here's the problems as I see them...

Hi All!as im sure most of you are aware by now i dont do alot of my own work, i mainly subcontract for larger contractors, However, im tring to do more of my own work.

anyway, ive been asked to quote for this job and wondered what you would all charge for labour.

Install Mains Powered Door Bell

replace light fitting in downstairs hall

replace light fitting in upstairs hall

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #1 (Fire Rated)I assume there is a loft above so why fire rated

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #2 (Fire Rated)I assume there is a loft above so why fire rated

Remove Light In Bedroom #1

Remove Light In Bedroom #2

Remove Light & Pull Cord in Bedroom #2

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #1

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #2

Replace 6 x LV Spot Lights in BathroomIP65 required,, got to stop humid air getting into loft space

Remove Light fitting in kitchen

Install 2 light fittings in KitchenIf difficult access you're going to have to cut holes as said earlier

Chase Ceiling In Kitchen

Replace 22 Double sockets with flush fit Chrome& replace knock out boxes with 35mm

Replace 1 x 3G Dimmer with flush fit chrome& replace knock out boxes with 35mm

Replace 6 x 1G Switch with flush fit chrome& replace knock out boxes with 35mm

Replace 1 x 3G Switch (2 x 1way 1 x 2way) with flush fit chrome

Replace 1 x TV Ant Socket with flush fit chrome& replace knock out boxes with 35mm

Replace External Light fitting

Test & Inspect all work carried out & issue certificate

The ceiling in the kitchen is in accesable so the only way i can think of wiring is to chase the ceiling, is this how you would all do it?

any help on this would be very useful! i told the client i would send the quote in the next day or so.

 

[NozSpark]

Just done a rough and ready totting up and got 42 1/2 hours.... but the reality of it is that only you can tell as we haven't seen the job,,

 

[jibspark]

Here's the problems as I see them...

 

[jibspark]

Just done a rough and ready totting up and got 42 1/2 hours.... but the reality of it is that only you can tell as we haven't seen the job,,

is there any chance you could post up how you got to 42 hrs? just so i can see where else i went wrong.

 

[Stevie h]

Once you try to take out the original back boxes to replace with 35mm ones , you will more than likely have bits of repair work to do round each skt which will add time , flat plate skts/sw are a pain, if you could convince them to go with none flat plate, your price may not be so bad .

 

[NozSpark]

Here you go... mine in red

Install Mains Powered Door Bell1 1/2

replace light fitting in downstairs hall1/2

replace light fitting in upstairs hall 1/2

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #1 (Fire Rated)3

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #2 (Fire Rated)3

Remove Light In Bedroom #11/4

Remove Light In Bedroom #21/4

Remove Light & Pull Cord in Bedroom #2

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #13/4

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #23/4

Replace 6 x LV Spot Lights in Bathroom4

Remove Light fitting in kitchen1/4

Install 2 light fittings in Kitchen2

Chase Ceiling In Kitchen

Replace 22 Double sockets with flush fit Chrome3/4ea =16 1/2

Replace 1 x 3G Dimmer with flush fit chrome3/4

Replace 6 x 1G Switch with flush fit chrome4

Replace 1 x 3G Switch (2 x 1way 1 x 2way) with flush fit chrome1

Replace 1 x TV Ant Socket with flush fit chrome3/4

Replace External Light fitting3/4

Test & Inspect all work carried out & issue certificate2

ISH...

There you go,,,, Thinking about it I'd prob add a bit more time for the switches/sockets..

 

[Andy™]

Dont forget to add cost for some materials, odd terminal block & case for lights, 35mm boxes etc. all stuff that customer wouldnt think you need when they turn up with just the socket etc

 

[jibspark]

ok i need to practise at this! i worked it out on the following.

Install Mains Powered Door Bell 1

replace light fitting in downstairs hall 0.5

replace light fitting in upstairs hall 0.5

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #1 (Fire Rated) 1.5

Install 4 x GU10 Spot Lights in bedroom #2 (Fire Rated) 1.5

Remove Light In Bedroom #1 0

Remove Light In Bedroom #2 0

Remove Light & Pull Cord in Bedroom #2 0.25

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #1 0.25

Install Remote Control Light Switch in Bedroom #2 0.25

Replace 6 x LV Spot Lights in Bathroom 1

Remove Light fitting in kitchen 0.5

Install 2 light fittings in Kitchen 1.5

Chase Ceiling In Kitchen 1.5

Replace 22 Double sockets with flush fit Chrome 0.25 each

Replace 1 x 3G Dimmer with flush fit chrome 0.25

Replace 6 x 1G Switch with flush fit chrome 0.25 each

Replace 1 x 3G Switch (2 x 1way 1 x 2way) with flush fit chrome 0.25

Replace 1 x TV Ant Socket with flush fit chrome 0.5

Replace External Light fitting 0.5

Test & Inspect all work carried out & issue certificate 3

 

[Andy™]

with flush fitting stuff, you often need to play around with the wiring and make it very neat to get socket back, and if the box is sticking out a little, it will need chased in. and often need changed to 35 as previously mentioned. for removing lights, you have 0 hours. this will still take time once you get ladders out, check wiring is dead, connect though and looped cables etc

also, for changing spots, if the hole is the same size, the great. but if it isnt, your then goin to spend time making hole bigger for new

 

[jibspark]

without a doubt gonna have to back out of this one! what makes things worse is i thought i had allowed to much time!

its the first job ive propery had to quote for, all the other private jobs ive done have been either fault finding or just really small jobs. i know this one would seem pretty small to most of you but to me its a big one! lol

im not a complete tool! im just used to industrial over domestic. Honest!

 

[NozSpark]

Don't right it off just yet,,

If they get back to you, be honest and tell them that I could be more because of the backbox issue.. you never know the lighting might already be in 25mm (you could just about get away with this), but I doubt that the sockets will fit 25mm..

Also flat plate (esp screwless) can be a right PITA to get on right..

When submitting a quote NEVER.... always an estimate with "E&OE" (errors and ommision excepted) on the bottom, or with your terms... that means that if you've forgotten something it's easier to add it to your bill (in the eyes of the law)...

If you ask most pros on here, if they are honest they will tell you that it is very rare to quote/estimate a job accurately.. there's always something that comes along to bite your bum.. X(

I had one, said

 

[jibspark]

Don't right it off just yet,,If they get back to you, be honest and tell them that I could be more because of the backbox issue.. you never know the lighting might already be in 25mm (you could just about get away with this), but I doubt that the sockets will fit 25mm..

Also flat plate (esp screwless) can be a right PITA to get on right..

When submitting a quote NEVER.... always an estimate with "E&OE" (errors and ommision excepted) on the bottom, or with your terms... that means that if you've forgotten something it's easier to add it to your bill (in the eyes of the law)...

If you ask most pros on here, if they are honest they will tell you that it is very rare to quote/estimate a job accurately.. there's always something that comes along to bite your bum.. X(

I had one, said

 

[Andy™]

maybe a slight get-out clause, but if the backboxes are sticking out slightly, use that as the reason for needing to change them

 

[green-hornet]

Welcome to the world of realism:^O

Do not beat yourself up over any quote, you will always make mistakes we all have.

The work you have quoted for is not all lost, you do have some options like andy has suggested and others.

This is how I would quote.

First is materials, I always include screws,wall plugs, tape etc etc normally on the quote if listed or itemised as sundries.

Once I have the cost to me for the materials I add 15% to 25%, this figure can be checked against places like B&Q, homebase or screwfix as the places most likely to supply the DIYer.

Then estimated time, you have already broken down the times so no great detail required from me on this one, however I always over estimate the time to allow for mishaps and unforseen problems.

If anything unforseen eats away at the allowed time for the job I always inform the customer, and get it in writing that it was not quoted for.

I have never been refused any extra charges from a customer, but I do explain every thing before hand.

I never, ever do anything extra unless the customer has given me permission.

 

[a1]

If they get back to you, just be honest with them.

Tell them that you have under-quoted on the price, But you would be happy to re-quote, giving a little discount for inconvenience, Perhaps?

Also explain that if it was just a little under-quoted then you would have done the work, at no extra cost.

 

[wozz]

as admin said.

are we talking screwless sockets here?

if you can talk them into having something like Hamilton Hartland stuff you might be ok, it has screws and is not quite flat, theres a few mill to play with, if the boxes were chopped in and then bonded and skimmed you might get away with it. I would take a few off and have a look.

If its screwless or if they want completely flat acessories its got to be thirty fives,

 

[sparkyrj]

Also important, are you registered with a part p scheme because some of this is notifiable, so you would have to allow for building control costs.

 

[jibspark]

would the parts in the bathroom, outside and kitchen not just be classed as replacing like for like?