Installing a new cooker - various questions

[barkymalarkey]

Hi all

I've got a new cooker coming next week and was considering wiring it in myself. It will be replacing our existing similar(ish) cooker and is going in the same spot as the old one. But it turns out I might have to get in an electrician to do some checks (see my other post today!) and so I might pay the extra to have them install it for me. In case I don't though, and because I'm a curious sod, I wondered if anyone could answer the things I was unsure about....

1. What cable will I need? I'm thinking 6mm but wanted to double check. The cooker is a Belling FS50EDOPC. The specs are as follows: 
- Top Oven. Top heating element 500w... Bottom heating element 600w.... Grill heating element 1400w.
- Main Oven. Top element 1000w.... Bottom element 1000w.... And the circular element 2000w.
- Ceramic hobs.... 145mm Radian 1200W.... 180mm Radiant 1700W

2. The manual says that "‘Twin and Earth 6242Y’ type cable should be used. Is that standard cokoer type cable?

3. Should there be a fuse at isolator switch (there isn't) or just at the consumer unit (there is - 32A). I'm pretty sure that's right but just wanted to check. 

4. Do I need to know what wiring there is going from the consumer unit to the isolator, and from the isolator to the cooker connection unit? All of that cable is in the walls. The only externally visible cable is from the CCU to the cooker. 

5. The manual says I have to use the anti-tilt part that comes with it. Out existing cooker doesn't have one and is rock solid. Do you use the anti-tilts when you install cookers and do you think they are essential. 

Cheers!

Max

 

[Rrrrr]

1. Manufacturers instructions say 4mm but I'd go 6mm 

2. Yes

3. No fuse at isolator but if you have a 32a MCB in place at the moment then leave it as is. If it trips (unlikely) at full load then replace with a 40 IF you have confirmed that you have a 6mm cable installed

4. Yes

5. Yes, if it comes with it, fit it. It'll only be a chain or floor bracket and is for your safety

If you're getting a sparky in to do other stuff anyway, best get him to Check the supply

 

[barkymalarkey]

Hi Jon

1.  Where did you see that please?  

2.  Great

3.  Great

4.  How can I tell what spec the wiring is when it is in the walls?  How does an electrician do it?  With some kind of equipment or just by eye-balling the ends at the socket, etc?

5.  Mine comes with an L shaped bracket which fits to the wall.  I'll make sure I use it.  

Thank you so much for the helpful reply.  

 

[rapparee]

1 electricians just know, it's our job.

4 yeah eyeball it at the consume unit or isolator.

5 i didnt bother using mine. It wasnt going to go anywhere.

 

[Rrrrr]

1.http://www.belling.co.uk/media/626815/444443931-Bel-FS50EDOPC-Sta.pdf

4. Experience, sometimes cable is marked if you can see enough

5. If you don't fit it at least keep it in case you ever call out manufacturer, they'll try anything to get out of warranty and if stability bracket is not fitted they could use that against you

 

[barkymalarkey]

Thanks rapparee.  

4.  Well, as luck would have it I do have some photos of the internals of the isolator and the cooker connector unit.  So would anyone mind taking an eyeball and seeing if they are clear enough to see what's there?  Or at least to judge whether it is the same going in as coming out (which it seems to be to my untrained eye).  Pics below.  

5. You're the first person that's said about not using the anti-tilt.  I must admit, I was surprised that everyone recommends I do.  I am happy to though.  It's just that at 45kg it would take quite an effort to get it to tilt imo.

Many thanks

 

[Rrrrr]

Looks like 4 mm to me

 

[Lurch]

Looks like 6mm² to me.

Couldn't really say with any confidence from some pictures though.

 

[Rrrrr]

Agreed, could be either, should be okay for cooker

 

[rapparee]

Tbh, i think it's 6mm he has. You will get away with both.

By all means fit the brackets, i didn't bother fitting them in my house and my ma hasn't toppled it yet.