Insulation resistance 0.00megger ohm

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I would assume the OP posted without thinking, his reading was 0.00 ohms but he posted 0.00 Meg ohms, he did have a dead short but put it over incorrectly. I have had Electricians say to me its a dead short, when I ask what is it they say 0.0 Meg ohms !! I smile and say really, look again.

I think the OP has been given a hard time here, I'm not sure of his age and we all make mistakes, and anyone on here who claims not to are talking bull****

 
Please forgive me but, and this is NOT aimed at this current post but ALL posts in general

You can have all the test equipment known to mankind . You can take all the measurements / readings that you want. FFS you can even 'call' them what you want i.e. Zdb.....Zdb is not 'defined' so it doesn't 'exist'. BUT if you cannot interpret/understand the results then you are only kidding yourself and/or fooling the customer!

You can see water

You can smell gas

Unfortunately you can feel Electricity, this is very rarely a good siuation to be in. This quite often ends with the relatives/loved ones using the expression ' Thank you Vicar, what a lovely service '. OK I know that this is a touch light hearted BUT the stuff we work with everyday kills people when done wrong... :coat

 
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I would assume the OP posted without thinking, his reading was 0.00 ohms but he posted 0.00 Meg ohms, he did have a dead short but put it over incorrectly. I have had Electricians say to me its a dead short, when I ask what is it they say 0.0 Meg ohms !! I smile and say really, look again.I think the OP has been given a hard time here, I'm not sure of his age and we all make mistakes, and anyone on here who claims not to are talking bull****
if it was 0.00 ohms, then it would trip the MCB. which the OP said it didnt.

 
Nick try this method to find the fault; safely isolate the cu. You mention that it is the kitchen ring final with the fault. Remove conductors for kitchen from the terminals in the cu and meg the rest. If clear then confirm that the kitchen ring has a fault by IR test not forgetting L/N together to E. Unplug all appliances from circuit and disconnect any other loads and retest. If fault still on remove all DSO/SSO's and from there break the circuit down and test from point to point until the faulty leg is revealed. Obviously there are other tests that you must do (end to end, R1+R2). Fitting RCBOs will not help you in any shape or form to find the fault. Hope this helps.

 
You have to remember that some people are out there doing electrical work that is far above their knowledge, this puts Part P of the building regulations into question, and puts the whole of the electrical installation trade in bad light.Had the OP phrased the question differently it may have had a better response. Being competent you must have full knowledge and skill to do all of the work that you are being paid to do.

Trading without those core skills is borderline fraudulent. If I had encountered those reading during any test I would know instantly what was or is a possible cause, and gone on to rectify it.

So do not get defensive for those who are out there doing really bad work and getting paid for it.

If any post is not to your liking you can report that post and the Admin team will deal with it as they see fit, by discussion and agreement. No member is immune to infractions as some of our longer members can attest. Even I am not immune so I doubt any member would be either.
and so do not meet the requirements of the EAWR ....

Is it really right for an individual to charge for their services and then seek information on basic fault-finding on a forum?

If the 5DW`s are so sure of themselves, inform the customer of your lack of training and experience and let them decide to employ you on THAT basis, not just the belief that you are an experienced spark.

 
and so do not meet the requirements of the EAWR ....Is it really right for an individual to charge for their services and then seek information on basic fault-finding on a forum?

If the 5DW`s are so sure of themselves, inform the customer of your lack of training and experience and let them decide to employ you on THAT basis, not just the belief that you are an experienced spark.
why a licencing system would be so good, in big letters on the front, along with the date of the course.

 
Whilst we can call those who clearly show a lack of knowledge we have to remember some self confessed short course electricians are very good at their job, I can think of some members of this forum and would have them carry out any work in my own home I am so confident in their capabilities.

I can also name some very qualified but ignorant friends of mine who I would not allow to put the kettle on without supervision.

 
May be there should be a dislike button. For people who are insulting.
We used to. I was a fan of it, but it did cause some upset and was dropped with one of the upgrades. I actually think the forum is better without it.

I'm not sure of his age
I'd have a stab at ~26 years old going from his username.

It does scare the faeces out of me as a homeowner who could employ someone trading as a fully qualified electrician who lacks such a basic understanding. As has been pointed out a dead short would be tripping the MCB.

 
Thanks for being rude most of you! Thanks to the people that wasn't secondly I wasent charging him I was doing a favour for him.

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 16:45 ---------- Previous post was made at 16:38 ----------

Yeh I disconnected it from the neutral bar I haven't been doing testing for long and I've only just got a tester most people have ripped in to me on here but you have to start somewhere.

 
Nick, I think if you had taken a moment longer to explain the context and your experience then you would have got a lot more help. People on here are very keen to help those learning the trade (by whatever means) but (understandingly) scathing of people who are supposedly qualified and working outside their depths. Does that make sense?

It has been debated before having the ability to select your level of experience eg DIY/learner/electrician etc to help iron out some of these confusions.

Ok, so did you check to make sure EVERYTHING was disconnected? No neons wired into the ring?

 
We used to. I was a fan of it, but it did cause some upset and was dropped with one of the upgrades. I actually think the forum is better without it. I'd have a stab at ~26 years old going from his username.

It does scare the faeces out of me as a homeowner who could employ someone trading as a fully qualified electrician who lacks such a basic understanding. As has been pointed out a dead short would be tripping the MCB.
Hahaha, so where does that put me with my user name then
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Thanks for being rude most of you! Thanks to the people that wasn't secondly I wasent charging him I was doing a favour for him.
and people wonder why our trade is so de-valued?

dont get me wrong, I wired my mates kitchen and garage for him FOC,

he plastered my kitchen for me in return,

the another small difference is Ive known him for almost 30years(he was my best man and is godparent to my kid) and we race bikes together.

the thing is, doing favours is one thing, doing freebies where you are out of your depth is something completely different,

I suppose this shows the shortcomings of a short course, they show you how to test an ideal installation, they dont teach you how to interpet the results or fault find.

 
Thanks for that. Yeh I unplugged everything disconnected timers and the spurs I found didn't have neons disconnected the loads it was only on the final ring circuit so no lights dimmers or nothing but I only tested between L-E where I know where I went wrong I should of linked L+N and tested to E i know people on here say that because it's a smart home it don't matter I was just abit worried to blow everything up. Thanks so much for not ripping me to bits

 
Thanks for that. Yeh I unplugged everything disconnected timers and the spurs I found didn't have neons disconnected the loads it was only on the final ring circuit so no lights dimmers or nothing but I only tested between L-E where I know where I went wrong I should of linked L+N and tested to E i know people on here say that because it's a smart home it don't matter I was just abit worried to blow everything up. Thanks so much for not ripping me to bits
if you really want one piece of advice about IR testing, it is this , and I always do it,

test at 250V first, then if you have left something plugged in/switched on it hopefully wont get zapped, you are after all simply sending 'mains' voltage down the cable.

 
Thanks for that. Yeh I unplugged everything disconnected timers and the spurs I found didn't have neons disconnected the loads it was only on the final ring circuit so no lights dimmers or nothing but I only tested between L-E where I know where I went wrong I should of linked L+N and tested to E i know people on here say that because it's a smart home it don't matter I was just abit worried to blow everything up. Thanks so much for not ripping me to bits
For future reference whenever you are doing any IR testing always use the lower voltage first, this will show up any faults that you witnessed. If you get a bad reading then investigate the circuit properly, you will always find something that has been missed.

Always test with L+N connected together to earth first, so that you limit any possible damage, unless you are fully convinced any load has been removed. Get to know your tester more, use the self calibrating devise and note how the readings change for each resistance, a decimal point in ohms law is a very critical issue. Testing will show up all and any fault, and interpretation of the results will help you locate them faster and safer, without causing any damage to any connected loadings.

 
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