Kitchen Extractor Safe Zone

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I'd do it the same as Polarity intends, metal capping,TBH , there will be an RCD somewhere no doubt, I think we can become paranoid sometimes, especially with conjuring up mythical future people who may or may not move in and may or may not decide to fix a shelf bracket over your cables .

Plug it in , in cupboard, 3A fuse.

 
so sfcu on the ring in the kitchen near the extractor, in a unit or socket height then cable into the loft and down to the extractor using rods, is that an option?

 
Am I missing something here.One of the phrases in the 17th says something like any cable NOT in a safe zone must be protected by a 30mA RCD (regardless of depth etc)

So although not what it was perhaps intended to say, it does in effect say you can run a cable anywhere outside a safe zone, providing it has 30mA RCD protection.

So if this cable is RCD protected, just fit it as you intend.
Something not really like that at all. Read 522.6.6 and 522.6.7. RCD only needed if cable is in safe zone and does not have mechanical protection or enclosed in an earthed conductor.

You can run a cable with mechanical protection or enclosed in an earth conductor outside safe zones with or without an RCD.

 
could it be argued the cable is in a safe zone it is directly below the item of equipment creating the safe zone? or have i misunderstood?

 
so sfcu on the ring in the kitchen near the extractor, in a unit or socket height then cable into the loft and down to the extractor using rods, is that an option?
Nope, the chimney does not go all the way to the ceiling, therefore would need to conceal the cable above the chimney... which would not be a safe zone so back to square one!

I can get power to it easily from the kitchen ring or hob (will use ring), it is just what needs to be done to comply with the regs to run the cable behind the glass - either make it a safe zone or protect it. Seems to be some differing opinions!

 
could it be argued the cable is in a safe zone it is directly below the item of equipment creating the safe zone? or have i misunderstood?
That was part of my original question, - does the appliance create its own safe zone?

 
what will you do if you bury the flex in the wall to the cupboard and then find in 2 months time the extractor packs up and needs to be replaced ? chop the wall and glass out again :|

 
the diagram in the osg show the zone as wide as the equipment or accessory , if this was a light fitting on the wall would be be having this discussion? id argue its in a safe zone.

 
what will you do if you bury the flex in the wall to the cupboard and then find in 2 months time the extractor packs up and needs to be replaced ? chop the wall and glass out again :|
Nope, thought of that, - chop the plug off the end and pull the cable through (with a mouse line attached of course!) As it will be secured top and bottom but left loose behind the glass....

 
Then if you put in through conduit, it'll be a piece of pee to pull through:put the kettle on

 
Then if you put in through conduit, it'll be a piece of pee to pull through:put the kettle on
Would the conduit not have to be earthed to the appliance supply though? Meaning cutting into the cable and attaching it to the conduit ....(would have to destroy hood internals to get to its earth stud).

At the moment I have the following answers :

Use capping

Capping no good, use 20mm earthed steel conduit with RCD

Dont need anything because of RCD regs

Dont need anything because of appliance position.

Use a JB

Could use a dummy JB

Good to see the regs (that I am trying to comply with) make it nice and clear then! More confused than when I asked the Q... :|

 
Would the conduit not have to be earthed to the appliance supply though? Meaning cutting into the cable and attaching it to the conduit ....(would have to destroy hood internals to get to its earth stud).Why not run a 4mm single cpc back to the point of connection of the hoods supply to earth the conduit?

At the moment I have the following answers :

Use capping No point as it offers no protection

Capping no good, use 20mm earthed steel conduit with RCD Best option

Dont need anything because of RCD regs Absolute rubbish

Dont need anything because of appliance position. Not sure thats true

Use a JB

Could use a dummy JB

Good to see the regs (that I am trying to comply with) make it nice and clear then! More confused than when I asked the Q... :|
In Red.

Is the fake chimney part removable (as I know some are)? Could you put a sfcu behind it?

If you can get an accessory behind the hood somehow then you could surface clip to the part of the wall that has been helpfully chipped away so the cable is flush to the wall. As long as you are not fitting the splashback then how are you to know someone else will cover over your surface clipped wiring?

 
Tried looking for one of those new invisible JBs but no matter how hard I looked I couldn't find one:^O

At one point, thought I was going mad suggesting using a couple of lengths of conduit. Don't know why it was seen as such a big task to install. :innocent

 
If you can get a JB or similar in the hood/chimney then just use fp200 or similar (as I suggested above) for the run in the wall as that can be run out of safe zones.

 
At one point, thought I was going mad suggesting using a couple of lengths of conduit. Don't know why it was seen as such a big task to install. :innocent
Not if you are a sparky and have 80cm of it in the van along with your wall chaser - however if you have to buy it specially (only in 3m lengths guv) it's a PITA , ditto fp200 - 30m roll and I need 80cm! Much easier for a "visible if you look for it" JB justabove the top of the chimney, to re-iterate this is ONLY for reg compliance as 6mm tempered glass will cover the wire.

Thanks for all the ideas and input!

 
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