Kitchen Ring Spurred From A Socket.

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I have seen that fuse i'm not sure average cartage, listen the socket from responses just seems a grey area even from my previous post. I mentioned earlier I thought the idea I liked the best was to maybe put connection blocks behind it or a junction box in the loft just to improve the wiring. Everything else I am sure is fine.

Some people don't quite see how he even got three cables in there. I personally mentioned this to the electrician today. He then mentioned the problem is (thought probably rare), if it starts to arc one day it can start sparking one day. This is just my logic it just isn't quite right.

This is a let flat bare in mind I could go done if someone one day kills themselves via that socket... I have signed a deceleration to say the flat is safe. The first thing that came to my mind when it blew is that...

I had a potential fire before. The connection box on the back of the cooker melted but this was down to not being down rated properly!

 
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I remember that day by the time the fuse blew (relatively loud bangs/sparking)... the alarm went off and it smelt of a wired smell (not obvious burning electrics smell) vague smoke in the atmosphere. The cooker was under warranty so a guy same to replace the back connection box it was melted with black flame marks going up the back of the cooker, that was what shocked me.

That took about a week to blew the fuse. When the cooker was turned on that was when the slow damage was happening. It smelt like burning hair if anything... no obvious sign until I was in the garden and I heard the banking from the fuse box.

 
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Sorry Andy, I don't know what he is going to do fully. He is going to put a small quote together. I guess as you can tell i'm concerned about making that first socket slightly safer. I have a feeling no electrician will sign it off as circuit as it currently stands? The original fuse as no additional protection.

 
I have seen that fuse i'm not sure average cartage, listen the socket from responses just seems a grey area even from my previous post. I mentioned earlier I thought the idea I liked the best was to maybe put connection blocks behind it or a junction box in the loft just to improve the wiring. Everything else I am sure is fine.

Some people don't quite see how he even got three cables in there. I personally mentioned this to the electrician today. He then mentioned the problem is (thought probably rare), if it starts to arc one day it can start sparking one day. This is just my logic it just isn't quite right.

This is a let flat bare in mind I could go done if someone one day kills themselves via that socket... I have signed a deceleration to say the flat is safe. The first thing that came to my mind when it blew is that...

I had a potential fire before. The connection box on the back of the cooker melted but this was down to not being down rated properly!

you won't get 2 x 2.5mm and 1 x 6mm into a standard 2G socket.

OP - why don't you post your location and see if anyone is local?

 
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Na i'm sure this guy is fine... I think he is honest. He could tell I was concerned about that socket... I figured most people would not alter it without making sure it is right up to current safety standards. So maybe this is his best solution with out going all the way back to the main board.

 
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you won't get 2 x 2.5mm and 1 x 6mm into a standard 2G socket.

OP - why don't you post your location and see if anyone is local?
You can, but only if you buy a RPP one (CEFs finest :eek: ).... They used to have 2 x termination points per conductor

However I haven't bought any for a long time so they may have changed the design

 
You can, but only if you buy a RPP one (CEFs finest :eek: ).... They used to have 2 x termination points per conductor

However I haven't bought any for a long time so they may have changed the design
Ahemmmm

Look,at the post before yours!

For he must truly be a sage amongst men

Just saying

 
Yes he is going to install small consumer 32A unit in kitchen and sign off the kitchen circuit issue cert. This also takes care of the socket.

 
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This is a let flat bare in mind I could go done if someone one day kills themselves via that socket... I have signed a deceleration to say the flat is safe. The first thing that came to my mind when it blew is that...
And as a non electrically skilled person how can you be sure of that?

This is a get out letting agents try  in order to cover their backs while avoiding getting into the need to have a condition report and remedials carried out (because a lot of places on their books would need a fair amount of remedials)

My house had previously been let out by the same estate agent that sold it to me, they told me that because of this, there was a gas safety cert available for the boiler, I asked them if there was also a PIR available, and was told the owner had signed a declaration saying it was safe. Now considering there was no means of earthing at all (zs at a socket was 100 odd ohms through various paths) and there wasn't even the saving grace of an RCD (all re-wireable fuses)....he might have ended up in a sticky situation if an earth fault had occurred!

 
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OK i have personally seen all electrics wiring, i am no electrician obviously. but i did know all the circuits well. You can tell that i know enough to know that that socket is of my concern. The only thing is the older main board doesn't meet current safety standards but i have been told it perfectly usable/safe...

in all honestly even that first socket in the kitchen will blow the fuse if it shorts out. i'm more worried someone will plug something in and get a shock. i must admit i didn't like plugins in and out knowing what is behind there

 
a 3036 / 1361 fuse is still compliant, so i could fit one today if i wanted. but the main problem is these boards do not have any RCD's, or capability to add them, other than into an external enclosure, so its not really practical, and if RCD protection is required, usually easier to replace the board than fit many separate RCD's

 
Andy, I did speak to him today. The 6mm cable is protected by the original 30A fuse. Instead of having the plug socket as the junction box he is going to put a small CU just above it at accessible hight in the corner at the change over between 6mm to 2.5mm with RCD and addition used at 30A. It seems a good way to take care of the socket and to sign the ring off altogether.

The original cable really is that bad to replace it is caulked up and painted shut. If it wasn't a a can of worms I would have said take it away. I would have assumed if you replace at the original board then you may as well go the whole way and replace the whole cable as to make a regular circuit. But I really don't know.

 
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