main bonds.

[wozz]

Could there ever be a good reason for wanting to do this?

?:|

the only thing i can think of is this situation (that does not apply to you as you have a plastic tank) is bonding a metal oil tank down to true earth as you could have made the potential of the tank rise with a TNCS bond at the house.

i had a discussion about this on my assessment.

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

Pretty much as I thought then, he was just padding the quote!

X(

 

[Andy™]

the only thing i can think of is this situation (that does not apply to you as you have a plastic tank) is bonding a metal oil tank down to true earth as you could have made the potential of the tank rise with a TNCS bond at the house. i had a discussion about this on my assessment.

whilst it may help with the voltage, a rod there will never get the voltage to true earth - there will always be some difference

i cant see any reason for wanting to add this. although if house supply is TNCS, then a non-conductive pipe should be used where pipe enters house so it cannot introduce a potential to outside

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

i cant see any reason for wanting to add this. although if house supply is TNCS, then a non-conductive pipe should be used where pipe enters house so it cannot introduce a potential to outside

Think my supply is TNS from what I remember.

Certainly no neutral/earth connection noticeable.

 

[boltonsparky]

bonding of lightening conductors is required.

I know your supposed to and that there will be a reason for it but it seems incredibly dangerous to introduce the voltage of a lightning strike onto the electrical installation of a building... wouldn't the metal casings of every appliance be at a couple of hundred thousands of volts for the duration of the strike? Maybe I'm missing something here though headbang

And - the NICEIC frown upon the "Pigtail" effect that we are used to doing.

Could somebody explain to a younger spark what pigtails are please ?:|

 

[Apache]

Could somebody explain to a younger spark what pigtails are please ?:|

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

I know your supposed to and that there will be a reason for it but it seems incredibly dangerous to introduce the voltage of a lightning strike onto the electrical installation of a building... wouldn't the metal casings of every appliance be at a couple of hundred thousands of volts for the duration of the strike? Maybe I'm missing something here though headbang

Yep, they would likely all go bang.

I have read of the aftermath of a lightning strike where the conductor wasn't bonded (an arc between the conductor and the mains occurred). Nearly everything went bang, even stuff that was not connected. Even electricals still packed in boxes were destroyed.

Plus a full rewire was needed.

 

[Andy™]

If you get a direct strike on your house, i dont think the bonding is going to be of much use.

 

[green-hornet]

Well done Apache, a picture is worth a thousand words.

 

[a1]

Took me ages to try and find a pic. But I didn't realise there was a 4th page to the thread.

Patch did that pushy shovey thing. :^O

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

Is there a specific type of clamp available for the smaller pipes used for oil?

I have used a standard Tenby on my oil pipe and it looks as though it will be impossible to route the 10mm earth cable through the cable clamp the angle it sits at means there just won't be a gap... will see if I can upload a photo.

Edit added pic. Lighting is not very good but that lower metal plate in the foreground needs to be used to clamp the cable between it and the upper plate, but there is no room at the back of them as the plate is tight up against the pipe.

Also if I were to tighten that right hand set screw, it would cut right into the oil pipe...

 

[NozSpark]

Haven't found anything yet myself..

get a plumber to fit 6" of 15mm????

 

[Andy™]

drill a hole through pipe and bolt it?

 

[steptoe]

You are correct Sir.Apparently the NICEIC are frowning upon the use of lugs too. They want the terminated end split and put each side of the screw on the BS951 Earth Clamp and tightened.

Like I say, That is the NICEIC's ruling.

never used lugs in my life, another joint to fail.

not NICEICs ruling, just simply good practice, less joints, less to fail.

No I think that is more hearsay than factual, it as long been the NICEIC's view that a cable not terminated properly ie split and passed between the bolt or screw on a clamp, can easily be removed or loosened by accidental pulling of the cable.I think its one of those myths of the trade started by some other provider :^O

Big red book is the only guide you need:^O

remember, the NIC although they like to think they do , do NOT make the rules.

as an aside, I dont think using the same 10mm for the rod as well as a main bond is acceptable,

you should have an earthing conductor, and a separate main bonding conductor, but I have no problem whatsoever in using the same UNBROKEN 10mm for both gas and water.

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

The most sensible answer so far on Google has indeed been to fit a section of 15mm! But that's not going to happen.

Personally I think earth clamps are pretty rubbish and it amazes me that no one has come up with a better design or refinement so far.

As far as I can see the only way out is to use separate bonds on oil and water, which I was trying to avoid as it will use nearly twice as much cable - I don't even know if I have enough on the roll.

But I can't envisage getting a through connection on that clamp at all, certainly not without damaging the pipe. So I will use a lug onto the side of the clamp that does not tighten onto the pipe. Shame the water comes in on the wrong side of the run...

headbang

 

[sparkytim]

Try the EC 14 with a single screw that you can wrap a stipped section of 10mm round without cutting it.

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

Try the EC 14 with a single screw that you can wrap a stipped section of 10mm round without cutting it.

Is the EC14 suitable for external use?

 

[sparkytim]

I think its the Tenby EC15 thats non corrosive, Blue label instead of red.

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

I think its the Tenby EC15 thats non corrosive, Blue label instead of red.

Right yes, that would make sense as it's the only one I don't seem to have. Damn Screwfix and their lack of sufficient illustrations!

X(

 

[AAAMUSEMENTS]

When installing main earth bonds, is it acceptable to have them terminate in the meter cupboard in an earth block, which has a 16mm tail going into the CU and another 16mm tail going into the PME connection block? Or should the 10mm go all the way into the CU?