Mains or extra-low voltage downlighters?

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IMHO

ELV (MR16) give a much nicer whiter light... however the installation costs are a little bit more and the lamp fly leads do fail from time to time

Mains (GU10) give a slightly orange tint... the installation costs are lower, the lamp connector is much more substantial and (dependant on the fitting) you can fit CFL or LED lamps (without any alteration to the wiring)

as for running cost (we'll assume 50w lamps used) the mains ones will be slightly cheaper to run as you do get transformer losses with ELV

But if I were installing some in my house I'd go for ELV or possibly LED

 
mains every time for me unless it has to be 12v as i hate the things, more expensive to buy, more expensive to run, more awkward to install, more to go wrong and if running multiple lights from one transformer then every cable has to be the same length otherwise you get variations in brightness.

RE the colour issue is that not just the K rating of the lamp?

 
+1

Had more problem with transformers and LV lamp holder burn outs then anything else, so go with 230 v every time.

If correct IP rating and RCD protection in bathroom/ shower rooms then see no advantage of LV.

 
I always fit mains . I do agree that the 12v lamps seem to be a bit crisper/whiter or is it imagination?

The quality of some of the transformers worries me TBH , especially when the builders have buried them under 10 ft of lagging .

I changed a load of tiny trannies at some offices, made in Italy , size of a box of matches, encpsulated. Kept exploding with a loud bang and flash, worrying.

 
are dimmers better with 12v, the switchs have to be down rated for 240v

I put a dimmer in the other day and in the instructions it said that the max number of transformers is 4, anybody know what that is all about?

 
Generally I prefer the ease of GU10s - but in bathrooms - subject to any wiring alteration being surface mounted/above the ceiling - 12v lights could be added without the necessity for RCD protection as any 240v connection is actually not in the bathroom but above it and inaccessible. May make it easier for customer who doesn't want to upgrade their old Wylex board!

Note 12v LED's are available - but most transformers have a minimum load - so there can be problems.

 
For halogen I will generally use snaplite as they seem best on market for gu10will only use jcc low energy megaman or similar. I personally think standard gu10's are a waste of time due to light output but thats just my opinion.

 
For halogen I will generally use snaplite as they seem best on market for gu10will only use jcc low energy megaman or similar. I personally think standard gu10's are a waste of time due to light output but thats just my opinion.
I'm with you on that - how these lights are deemed to be more energy efficient than the 100w filament lamps is beyond me. In some bathrooms and kitchens it's like putting a radiator in the ceiling! However - as always the customer gets what they want!

 
I always go for 240v. The cheaper lamps are somewhat yellow, but I always fit the new xenon filled ones from Osram, they are 40W (50W equivalent) and give a good white light.

I've replaced no end of 'blown' transformers and even had a couple of customers ask me to get rid of them cos they're fed up of them failing (and it's not always the cheap ones either).

 
I always go for 240v. The cheaper lamps are somewhat yellow, but I always fit the new xenon filled ones from Osram, they are 40W (50W equivalent) and give a good white light.I've replaced no end of 'blown' transformers and even had a couple of customers ask me to get rid of them cos they're fed up of them failing (and it's not always the cheap ones either).
Not sure why that would be as an example fitted four downlights in my daughters bedroom about five years ago in that time have replaced only one lamp and never any transformers they were only cheap fittings also. My general take on 240 volt ones from customers the lamps only last for very short time. I am not saying you do not get problems with low voltage because you certainly can but generally it will be because of insulation but this can be improved by using alutech lamps. Over the years I have fitted hundreds of low voltage and have rarely had problems although some of the IBL fire rated ones have been a problem with burnt out lampholders but this generally will be because people have used standard dichroics rather than alutech lamps. As said I am moving more towards low energy stuff these days apart from bathrooms were I use snaplite low voltage.

 
To me lamp l;ife seems to be much better with lv. At one company that i do work for they have about 40 240v GU10 fittings and the lamp life is very poor. They are in a suspended ceiling with no insulation and the life is very poor even with good quality lamps fitted.

 
I have had complaints about GU10 lamps going to often

I prefer low voltage myself usually with open lamps except of course in bathrooms

the 12volt lamps should be alu and heat projecting forwards then the lampholders do not suffer and the lamps seem to last 2/3years I always use the fire rated units and if under

insulation the ones I use have to down size 50 watt to 35 watt lamps

biggest problem is customers go and buy cheapest lamps not suitable for the fitting and then the lampholders suffer but are easy to replace and cheaper than GU10 lamps

so ?

 
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