Running 1.5mm wire from 2.5mm ring for lighting

[Evans Electric]

I can’t imagine trying to some of the conduit work without running couplings, it would be like trying to wrestle a snake, wonder what the blokes logic was not putting them in.

I'd guess he inherited it from an even older spark .     If theres an easier way then I'm for it TBH  .   

Blokes get some strange ideas in our trade .     We did a boiler room with lots of pumps ,   instead of  flexible conduit with the old bare  earth wire spiralled round the outside ..we used the more modern Kopex , PVC covered with an earth inside . 

The consultant turned up and said where,s the earth wires ...Inside we said ..... but we can't see them says he .     We ended up having to have traffolite labels made & fitted  , that read  " Earth wire inside "    Or words to that effect .   

The same man made us fit bonding jumpers to that flimsy , Baco foil covering on the pipe insulation ...his words were , " It conducts electricity so it must be earthed "  

 

[myksterx]

Completed electrics in outdoor build. 3amp fused spur worked a treat. I think i have 16x 7watt led bulbs. 
 

thank you for the information - wouldnt have done it without finding out first..
 

1) is 3amp fuse ok? They are running ok so im assuming it is?

2) the bulbs are dimmable, has anybody any experience with the wireless modules that controllable via an app?

 

[Bruspark]

If you do indeed have 16 x 7Watt LED fixtures that is a total specified of 112 watts and at 230V that is theoretically 0.5A.  In practice Amps or VA matters and so it could all run at somewhat more or a bit less then 0.5A ...

More important is that Each fitting will take a great big gulp of current at switch on and that surge is notorious for tripping or blowing breakers , dimmer switches and fuses.   
(If you proceed with your dimmer idea check the spec of the dimmer unit carefully - not just for watts but for any maximum number of fittings in the specification.  Many say 'max 10 LED lamps' alongside a maximum wattage due in part to start-up surge issues. )

Your 3A BS plug fuse in the SFU is designed not to blow before 5A ever and may well carry a surge of 10A + for a fraction of a second.  So a 3A fuse is unlikely to blow despite the switch-on surge.
If however you went down to a 1A fuse (especially without a soft start /dimmer) it may well blow at some inconvenient moment due to the effects on the tiny fuse wire of repeated switch on surges.

 

[myksterx]

If you do indeed have 16 x 7Watt LED fixtures that is a total specified of 112 watts and at 230V that is theoretically 0.5A.  In practice Amps or VA matters and so it could all run at somewhat more or a bit less then 0.5A ...

More important is that Each fitting will take a great big gulp of current at switch on and that surge is notorious for tripping or blowing breakers , dimmer switches and fuses.   
(If you proceed with your dimmer idea check the spec of the dimmer unit carefully - not just for watts but for any maximum number of fittings in the specification.  Many say 'max 10 LED lamps' alongside a maximum wattage due in part to start-up surge issues. )

Your 3A BS plug fuse in the SFU is designed not to blow before 5A ever and may well carry a surge of 10A + for a fraction of a second.  So a 3A fuse is unlikely to blow despite the switch-on surge.
If however you went down to a 1A fuse (especially without a soft start /dimmer) it may well blow at some inconvenient moment due to the effects on the tiny fuse wire of repeated switch on surges.

thank you for the in depth reply , that makes perfect sense , i have soft start dimmer switchs in the house designed for low voltage dimmable led gu10 bulbs , and your answer is in line with what i was trying to ask in simpleton terms (im a newbie to all the electrical terms)

respect, thank you, will update were necessary on build on this thread

 

[Evans Electric]

I look upon domestic dimmers with a degree of scepticism  .....we install a load of light fittings in , say, a kitchen  which adequately  lights the room , then we dim them down   :C    

 

[Murdoch]

There would have to be a very good reason to persuade me to use 1.5mm

Some push fit connectors on downlights are far easier to used with 1.5mm ...................

Numpties installing huge layers of insulation is another.

I look upon domestic dimmers with a degree of scepticism  .....we install a load of light fittings in , say, a kitchen  which adequately  lights the room , then we dim them down   :C    

I advise people to install "banks" of lights then they can use as many or as few as required ........... then dimmers aren't required ......... and of course these days people putting non dimmable LED's and trying to dim them doesn't help either.

 

[myksterx]

For the record,

i have the outer edge on its own “bank” or “daisy chain” as i call it (probably not the right term)

and the inner bank of lights on its own too..

the dimmable aspect is purely for certain use, ide have it fully lit if its not in use so it looks nice, but sometimes its nice to dim things down. 
 

my house livingroom and kitchen has 2x banks of 4, both dimmable, and the rooms are split in half (lights are split in half)

more so the point, i get migraines, so i thought ahead in the house with dimmable bulbs etc, and i will say, it works an absolute treat when i have a migrane, the brightness doesnt strain my eyes when dimmed right down.

so basicly, thats the logic behind wanting this feature on the build at the bottom of the garden too, ide probably have the outer edge fully lit and the inside dimmed if i had a migraine coming on

 

[myksterx]

Thanks for all the input lads. This job was completed safe and sound. 
 

i now have another snag on this job

i have purchased what i think to be 2x inline wifi switchs. 
 

i thought to myself simply adding it in as a “break” in the circuit operated by the power going to my leds would do it. Evidently not. Ive never done a switch before. I am confused. 
 

this is my scenario;

1.5mm coming out of fuse spur. 

i just snipped the 1.5mm wire.
added Live to L

added Neutral to N

(Coming from the fuse spur)

then i need to recouple the wire going to my daisy chain of gu10 leds that i snipped. 
 

the other 2 available slots on my Wifi switch is

L-

S

ive tried alsorts. None of which brings any power to my switch to turn on any lights in the module which then would let me connect via wifi app on my phone. 
 

no power to the module = cant go any further

is there something i am doing wrong?

i always thought if i add live to live and neutral to neutral then the switch or module should show some signs of life
 

this is the link to item:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124339761252

im aware its a dimmer switch etc. 
 

i just dont understand why no power is going to it?

 

[Sidney]

I take it the manual is in Chinglish? Do you have the manufacturers details?

Possibly supply live into L, outgoing live into S and both neutrals in N. But I can't be 100%.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Is there no wiring instructions with the switch?

What type of switch is it you have bought?

e.g. single gang / two gang / one-way / two-way  etc..

As that would have some relevance around what the terminals designations are meant to be doing..

I thought all electrical products sold in the UK should include wiring instructions?

If its a two-way switch you would definitely need to know which terminal is the common.

Guinness

 

[binky]

more people are saying 1mm over 1.5mm, i will use 1mm no problem, its only for some spotlights in a build at the back, it also saves me buying 1.5mm and hitting the issue of it not going in

you could run your cable to small junction boxes before entering light fitting if you find 1.5mm is too big for the terminals. Some Downlighters come with a terminal block that has a length of flex running to it, making it possible to chop off connector block and wire that into JB.