small heating job (pricing)

[blwsparko]

hi all,

obviously im new too the forum.

ive got a small job to do tommorrow night, basically connecting up cylinder stat, valves etc...

ive found the source for power so thats not a problem.

i reckon itll take 30 mins to an hour to do.

my question is how much should i charge?

thanks

ben

 

[a1]

Welcome to the forum BLW.

Where abouts are you?

 

[blwsparko]

thank you

im from the beautiful north wales !!!

 

[batty]

Hello Blwsparko,

I have wired up quite a few heating systems. They usually take a lot longer than half an hour. But if you think you can do the job in half an hour just charge what you would charge as a minimum charge. Also welcome to the forum.

Batty

 

[seajayess]

If all the cables are in place butyl to pump , valves , tank stat , boiler and three core to room stat and you have all the boxes on the wall to connect it all together you may do it in one hour, but if you are having to connect everything up you are looking more at 4 hours plus and even longer if it all isn't together in one room. If you need to connect a room stat and you cant gain excess to the room where you want to put it use a remote one bit more expensive but could save loads of disruption, last thing make sure it works how it should. If you have never done one before you could be in for a long night :z :z CJS

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

I would price it at at least half a day !

 

[kme]

As would I. Checking the "logic" of everything working, as it should, under all conditions can be VERY time-consuming.

However. To answer your question. IF I estimate a job at 30 mins, I`d charge for 1 hour. Cover travelling (I`ve no idea how far you have to go).

If you book another job after, what time will you get there? What percentage of the day have you spent on this job?

You alone know what your daily rate needs to be (you`ve read the business page, yes?)

QED

KME

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

hi all,obviously im new too the forum.

ive got a small job to do tommorrow night, basically connecting up cylinder stat, valves etc...

ive found the source for power so thats not a problem.

i reckon itll take 30 mins to an hour to do.

my question is how much should i charge?

thanks

ben

welcome!

Night shift work?????

that will be your hours at 1.5xday shift rate. ?:|Blushing

 

[blwsparko]

thanks for the replys everyone,

took me 3 hours to do the job in the end lol!

basically it was a honeywell y plan system quite simple really until i came across a few problems such as, plumber installs pump in a brilliant place, had to use a stubby phillips to get the cover off and a mirror to see the connections (i love my job) good job there push in connections otherwise no pump,

simple problem took friggen ages!!!

all worked spot on first time!

 

[batty]

They are never simple. I did one once plumber had put pump at back of airing cupboard. No flex connected to it. The only way I could get to it was on a set of steps and swinging off the tank. It took me over an hour to get flex in. I would not want to be the person who has to change it when it packs up. The only way it could be changed is by taking cylinder out big problem as it was a pressurised system so loads of pipes.

Batty

 

[jl-heating]

i would of looked at 150 for the wiring of a Y plan. a little less if the plumber drops the cable in place room stat/programmer etc.

i prefer the old fashioned way with a 10 way box then the push in honeywell boxes.in fact the last few i have fitted i pull out the boards and drop in some blocks.

remember also to add 3 core & earth to the boiler in case it has a SL, sometimes even a pump over run so an extra wire for the pump and pinch a neutral.

dont sell your self short m8 not many people can wire an s and y plan correctly.

 

[a1]

Pinching a neutral is a No no, Mate.

 

[jl-heating]

well its not really pinching 1, i run a 5 core to the boiler and use the LNE and SL and flag for the PL.

terminate in the 10 way picking up on the neutral (usually no 2) and 3 core to the pump.

so not really pinching a neutral so no worry of an isolation fault. its just not from the neutral on the boiler ie: pinching a neutral.

sorry wrong word chose. well spotted admin. :0

 

[jl-heating]

you have me thinking now...... would it be a better install to bring the neutral/Earth from the boiler ?

just checked a few install manuals some have pump LNE and some just have PL. mmmmmm.

might to re think my design skills.

 

[PC Electrics]

Well done......however, don't forget this work is notifiable.

 

[Apache]

Well done......however, don't forget this work is notifiable.

Not necessarily!

We don't have enough info to say for sure, but op says

Ive found the source for power so that's not a problem.

for all we know there could be a fused spur sat there and all OP has to do is connect new equipment into existing box. He estimated it would take 30 mins so he's unlikely to have been planning a new circuit from CU.

So what should he notify?

 

[batty]

I did think wiring heating controls comes under the Part P but I could be wrong.

Batty

 

[jl-heating]

dont think so.

 

[batty]

In the building reg book it says (central heating control wiring) New central heating control wiring installations are notifiable even where work in kitchens and bathrooms is avoided. But I suppose if he did not install wiring maybe he would not need to notify. But if I had done job I would probably notify to be on the safe side.

Batty

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

In the building reg book it says (central heating control wiring) New central heating control wiring installations are notifiable even where work in kitchens and bathrooms is avoided. But I suppose if he did not install wiring maybe he would not need to notify. But if I had done job I would probably notify to be on the safe side.Batty

Indeed so Batty...

page 9, Approved document P, additional notes paragraph n.

It was my understanding that this is why a lot of heating guys have the "defined scope" part P registration,

often they will use an existing supply spur or socket, (no new circuit installed from CU)....

But they do re-vamp the heating thermostat control wiring, which can be 230v!

approx 18months back I was doing a rewire while plumber was doing combi boiler, he wouldn't wire the thermostat cuz said he hadn't done his part P bit yet????

So I wired it...... but it was a low voltage thermostat not 230v

so don't know why he didn't do it!!!? ?:| ? :|