Sparking emersion heating switch

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That's what I thought at first, but I don't think light switches show red on the toggle when on, only higher rated switches.

I did wonder if the immersion heater was starting to short due to corrosion, but the Experts say the sparking is normal.
 
That's what I thought at first, but I don't think light switches show red on the toggle when on, only higher rated switches.

I did wonder if the immersion heater was starting to short due to corrosion, but the Experts say the sparking is normal.

When breaking a live circuit there will always be some element of arcing and sparking until the contact gap is sufficiently wide to stop the current flowing.

Think about how lightening, or spark plugs, or gas hob ignition etc.. which illustrate the principle that electricity will jump across gaps when specific conditions are met. (And the advice if you smell gas do NOT switch anything electrical on or off).

Basic rules are:-
Greater loads = larger potential sparks.
Cheaper switches = more visible sparks.
Smaller loads and better quality switches = very difficult to see the spark, (but almost certainly there will be one).

Older switches with a more mechanically robust toggle operation and thicker and darker bakelite construction, typically made it difficult to see any sparks, and early white plastic, "UK manufactured", switches also concealed any sparks produced during normal operation...

However many modern switch brands typically have cheaper quality switch mechanisms and contacts..
and thinner plastic moulded front plates, so any sparking can be more visible especially if the room is dark.
 
That's what I thought at first, but I don't think light switches show red on the toggle when on, only higher rated switches.

Obviously if its a 2-way or intermediate light switch, a "red-on" indication could be either way?
hence not really much use on a light switch unless it is a 1-way!

And excluding those in-line table lamp sort of switches.. e.g.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Profile-Torpedo-Through-Bedside-Electrical/dp/B098NNQ4ZQ/ref=sr_1_5

I would tend to agree with you that its the typical 20A D/P switch or 13A fused spur upwards that have a red-on indication on the switch itself.. (and the 'clunk' on the video does sound louder than the average 6A / 10A light switch).
 
I'd agree that a certain amount of sparking would be normal and with it being an isolator switch that's probably only used occasionally I wouldn't worry about it. If for some reason you're using the switch on a daily or regular basis I'd probably just spend the few quid and replace it if it was mine.
 
Had a sparky out to be on safe side.
Property is tenanted and tenant is quite a worrier.
They confirmed just arcing as tenant was turning off switch before water was hot so being turned off under full load.
The heating element checked out ok.
The switch was appropriate for application and no faults.
Swapped with a 20amp switch to minimise/stop the flashing and basically to appease tenant (negligible additional cost)
 
Thanks for letting us know. Didn't realise it was a rental, it's good to err on the side of caution and replacing it it sounds like a sensible resolution. Hopefully it wouldn't have cost much more if the electrician was already on site to do the testing.
 
Had a sparky out to be on safe side.
Property is tenanted and tenant is quite a worrier.
They confirmed just arcing as tenant was turning off switch before water was hot so being turned off under full load.
The heating element checked out ok.
The switch was appropriate for application and no faults.
Swapped with a 20amp switch to minimise/stop the flashing and basically to appease tenant (negligible additional cost)
I find 16A immersion switches don't seem to last long.
 
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