Switching A Switch… Sounds Simple Enough!

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FATCAT DESIGN

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Hi and happy new year!

First time user of the forum so hope I have posted it in the correct place.

Need advice on if this is a simple job or not. Basically I have changed all the sockets and switches from white ones to black nickel ones, all except the switch outside the bathroom. 

I have now decorated the landing and the bit of wall with the switch on is the last bit to finish, I dont really want the ugly white switch and thought it would be as simple as swapping it for a fused switch spur and a light switch but when I took the face plate off to look at the back, there are a lot of wires.

The switch is a 'rack' switch I think they call it that, where you can clip in various switches. This one has one switch for the light, one switch for the extractor fan and a fuse. The switch has its own fuse in the main fuse box which if you turn it off, it kills the power to the lights and extractor fan. 

Hope this is enough info to give you an idea of what I am trying to do.

Thanks in advance.

John

Sorry… I didn't mean 'rack' I meant 'grid'!

 
First and most important, BEFORE you do anything (with the power off) take photographs of how it's connected now, and in the case of there being several wires the same colour, label each one with a unique identification and draw a diagram of which one goes where.

Then we won't later be trying to solve "which red wire does what"

By the sounds of things, you have a very unusual setup, where the bathroom light and fan are on their own circuit.  Can you confirm first what is the rating if the MCB that feeds this circuit, and if that circuit feeds anything else other than the bathroom light and fan?

What you have is a "grid system" where as you rightly say, you have two switches and a fuse clipped in.  you can replicate exactly that same setup if you choose a decorative grid switch of your liking with the same 3 units clipped in, and then wire the new one EXACTLY the same way as the old one.

But report back on the rating of the MCB and if that MCB feeds anything else first.

Of course if you feel uncomfortable with the extra level of complexity with this one, it might be a lot simpler, and shouldn't be very expensive, to get a local electrician to change the switch for you. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Guys

And thanks for the very fast responses. 

I have looked at the grid systems, but nothing matches what we have which is why I had hoped I could swap for a couple of separate switches so they match.

As far as I can tell the fuse feeds the lights and extractor fans in both the bathroom and the ensuite. The fuse has VB06 B6 on it, which I am guessing from that you experts will know what size fuse it is.

I got a couple of pics of the back, but couldn't post pics for some reason.

Yes would prefer to call someone in, dont really know anyone though and other half has said just to leave it as it is and wants the decorating finished tomorrow!! You know what women are like, so thought I would just ask the question if the grid switch can be swapped for separate switches.

Thanks

John

 
Ah okay, that sounds promising. I have a single switch and a fused spur with a switch on, but there just isn't enough entry points on the back of them to match how they have wired the grid switches up.

Thanks

John

 
so if you know you have 2 switches, 1 for the fan & 1 for the light... why did you buy a single switch?

and the wiring will be different. you need to figure out exactly what it is now, and how to connect to the new (once you go get a 2g switch)

 
Hi 

Andy… I didn't buy the switches for this project they are just what are left over from when I did the rest of the house. But having looked I having even got a fused spur its a neon double pole switch, so god knows why I picked that up. But in my mind the 1 switch would swap for the light switch and the switch on the fused spur would turn the fan on and off, but thinking about it the fused spur has to be on all the time or the lights won't work, so I realise now why it wouldn't work.

I think it is going to be a bit too tricky for me, if its not just a matter of swapping over, but thanks for the help.

Onoff… thanks for the link, ours are screwless flush plates, and the switches are black nickel too so still wouldn't match.

Thanks anyway guys...

 
I am in Upton, Pontefract WF9.

Just looked on line and it seems stock of the switches are very limited must have stopped selling them, I am going to see if I can get a double switch and a fused spur, then at least if there is someone able to do it asap then I have the bits they would need.

If there isn't anyone on here, I suppose I could post the pics (if someone tells me how) of what it looks like now and what I need it to go to and you guys might be able to give me a pointer.

Thanks for your help.

 
I am in Upton, Pontefract WF9.

Just looked on line and it seems stock of the switches are very limited must have stopped selling them, I am going to see if I can get a double switch and a fused spur, then at least if there is someone able to do it asap then I have the bits they would need.

If there isn't anyone on here, I suppose I could post the pics (if someone tells me how) of what it looks like now and what I need it to go to and you guys might be able to give me a pointer.

Thanks for your help
When you reply click the "More Reply Options" box and you can attach files to your post. Or if you have a Photobucket account post links to that.

 
Here you go...IMG_0603.jpg

The first block on the left as you look at is is the fused spur, then the middle one is the extractor fan then the one on the right is the light switch.

Thanks

 
Just been looking and (unless I have got it wrong) my original idea of using a switch connection and a single light switch should work. 

If this diagram I have done is right, you can switch the switch connection on or off to turn the fan on or off, and the light will just turn on or off no matter if the switch connection is turned on or off...

IMG_0605.jpg

 
yes, going to swap it tomorrow for the switched fused spur, so the diagram looks right to you?

Thanks again for all your help, I thought it should be simple, just wasn't thinking properly.

Onoff… Thanks for looking, but I think I would rather go with the two switches and have it all matching 100%. Now I know it will work.

 
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