Switching Off Timer Fan

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I'm installing an inline timer fan connected to bathroom lighting so will be using 3 pole isolator in loft next to fan for isolation.

Client wants to be able to turn fan off at night.

Obviously the permanent Line (connected to fan L1) is usually powering the fan during overrun.

Currently all accessories in house are chrome flatplate.

Can I use a matching 2 gang switch (external to bathroom) - one switch for lighting and one to switch what would normally be the permanent Line to the fan to achieve this or will the lighting Switch Line (connected to fan LT) still trigger the fan to run without a feed to fan L1?

Hope thats clear!

I guess what I'm asking is does the fan always use the feed connected to L1 to run even when not overrunning? or does is swap between the feeds to L1 and LT?

 
Why not make things simple.

Put the 3 pole isolator on the wall outside the bathroom instead of in the loft. High up the wall but reachable.

Then they can turn it off at night if they want to.

Or (in my own home) I much prefer a 2G switch, one for the light, one for the fan, no timer.  Fan only gets used after a shower, or a dump.

 
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Why not make things simple.

Put the 3 pole isolator on the wall outside the bathroom instead of in the loft. High up the wall but reachable.

Then they can turn it off at night if they want to.

Or (in my own home) I much prefer a 2G switch, one for the light, one for the fan, no timer.  Fan only gets used after a shower, or a dump.
I wanted 3 pole by fan so anyone working on fan in loft can safely isolate the fan without it possibly being switched back on outside bathroom.

 
Most manufacturers make fancy fan isolators these days why make work for yourself just put it outside bathroom if you really want to add expense put a further one next to the fan.

 
Most manufacturers make fancy fan isolators these days why make work for yourself just put it outside bathroom if you really want to add expense put a further one next to the fan.
Then I'll need to either have a single plate for the light switch and another for the fan, or a dual or a grid. Outside of bathroom all nicely decorated thought one single plate would be less disruptive and has to be done for light switch anyway.

 
I wanted 3 pole by fan so anyone working on fan in loft can safely isolate the fan without it possibly being switched back on outside bathroom.
If you are really that worried about someone turning the switch back on while you are working on it, then have a second isolator in the loft.

Or lock off at the CU.

Oh this is starting to sound like........  I'll shut up.

See other thread for the arguments.

 
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I wanted 3 pole by fan so anyone working on fan in loft can safely isolate the fan without it possibly being switched back on outside bathroom.
Put the 3-pole easy to use switch in an accessible location for the customer....

Put a J/box in the loft next to the fan with some lever wagos..

so if a competent person doing maintenance wants to belt & braces their isolation they can quickly remove the feed from the fan!!

Simples!

:popcorn

 
Why does the customer not want the fan on at night ? The  sound level should be almost inaudible withe the motor being up in a loft space.
Agreed and I did tell them this - but they want what they want - dont they always!

Especially if it isn't mounted on the ceiling joists
Yep agreed!

I guess the fact that most of you guys are encouraging me to approach this in a different way means I cant rely on the fan to work the way I want it to!

Many thanks for all the input.

 
Ask him my question in post #3   :D

I guess the fact that most of you guys are encouraging me to approach this in a different way means I cant rely on the fan to work the way I want it to!
Your method in post #1  will work and why not do that, but still fit the 3 pole isolator adjacent to the fan for maintenance. As seen on other threads you can argue its not needed but whats an extra £4 plus a 3c and earth should not really be taken into the fan, but a flex so the switch replaces a junction box. Once again certain people will argue thats not correct with a fixed fan but its good workmanship.

 
Could you not put the fan on a time clock so it doesn't run after 11pm and comes on again at 7am?

 
Ask him my question in post #3   :D

Your method in post #1  will work and why not do that, but still fit the 3 pole isolator adjacent to the fan for maintenance. As seen on other threads you can argue its not needed but whats an extra £4 plus a 3c and earth should not really be taken into the fan, but a flex so the switch replaces a junction box. Once again certain people will argue thats not correct with a fixed fan but its good workmanship.
As you can see from original post always intended to also have 3 pole iso adjacent to fan.

Thanks - I will go with this method.

 
Why not make things simple.

Put the 3 pole isolator on the wall outside the bathroom instead of in the loft. High up the wall but reachable.

Then they can turn it off at night if they want to.

Or (in my own home) I much prefer a 2G switch, one for the light, one for the fan, no timer.  Fan only gets used after a shower, or a dump.
Should we have a rule for ...." Too much information" ?

Picking up on Loonie Toon's post .......  as he says , use a timeswitch  that switches the trigger wire from the switchwire off during the night , save remebering to switch fan back on every morning.

 
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