Temporary Supply for renovations

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All they need is a couple of double sockets all mounted close to the supply. Do I get a small CU box and include main breaker, RCD and 20A MCB or can anyone recommend a more efficient way of setting this up?

I t is an old house and I doubt the existing CU will be safe to use

Thanks

Mouseman
That sounds good to me, but will the 20A supply be sufficient (MCB tripping due to start up) for all tools in use whilst renovations take place?

A 32A supply (via RCD) might be a better option, use 4mm T&E.

Don & His Boys

 
id put 2 20A mcbs in 4mm feed to 2 double sockets all under the fuseboard one on each mcb if that makes sense

all on an rcd main switch with 25 mm tails and 16 mm earth,

 
i have a few temp boards, from 16A single to 63A 3 phase

heres the one i keep in the van. its a 32A TP input, but i have an adapter so i can use it as 32A SP. i have a lead which is tails-32A MCB to 32A socket, which distro then plugs into. also has accessible earth terminal so i can ditch supply earth and connect rod and any other bonding as required

(and the 32A blue socket isnt labelled because it got changed from a 16A and i didnt have time to print new labels)

DSCF1371.jpg


 
Fit a small consumer unit (2 way) with RCD main switch to a piece of blockboard, two twin sockets wired in 4mm from a 32 amp MCB. Builder's transformers tend to trip small breakers when first switched on. Should be plenty for a house re-furb.

Deke

 
i have a few temp boards, from 16A single to 63A 3 phaseheres the one i keep in the van. its a 32A TP input, but i have an adapter so i can use it as 32A SP. i have a lead which is tails-32A MCB to 32A socket, which distro then plugs into. also has accessible earth terminal so i can ditch supply earth and connect rod and any other bonding as required

(and the 32A blue socket isnt labelled because it got changed from a 16A and i didnt have time to print new labels)

DSCF1371.jpg
That's a bit keen Andy:)

 
As evans said 20amp MCBs can get tripped often by 110v transformers.

If your interested (if you havnt got a old board sitting about) electric fix do a 30mA RCD MK board with two spare ways for

 
a Ctype would be better, as andy says, its not like you are going to have problems meeting the Zs!

 
Welcome to the forum Mouseman, whatever you do set up, don't forget to allow for it becoming clogged or messed up if building renovations are in progress. Make suitable provisions to protect against builders with generous helpings of building rubble, water, mortar, cement, plaster etc.. They don't always care wherever their mess goes.

Doc H.

 
Welcome to the forum Mouseman, whatever you do set up, don't forget to allow for it becoming clogged or messed up if building renovations are in progress. Make suitable provisions to protect against builders with generous helpings of building rubble, water, mortar, cement, plaster etc.. They don't always care wherever their mess goes.Doc H.
mines almost builder resistant... the front cover has a small removable strip on the bottom, so the main cover can be put back on with everything still plugged in

 
mines almost builder resistant... the front cover has a small removable strip on the bottom, so the main cover can be put back on with everything still plugged in
That sounds a good design Andy, as I don't think I have heard of a clean and tidy builder.

Doc H.

 
Thanks for all the replies. I have a spare garage unit so will probably go along the lines suggested by Evans Electric.

Andy, your unit looks great but I think the builder would be confused by all those sockets.

Cheers

Mouseman

 
Thanks for all the replies. I have a spare garage unit so will probably go along the lines suggested by Evans Electric. Andy, your unit looks great but I think the builder would be confused by all those sockets.

Cheers

Mouseman
Thats the way to go Mouseman!

I have an old wylex jobbie that I took out of a job somewhere and I used a metal clad socket.

bit more robust! :D

 
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