Testing A Cooker Circuit And Cooker/ Appliance

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HeartovaHero

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Hi all,

I am a gas engineer and I install cookers/hobs for a living, I also install electric cookers/hobs and want to make sure I am being as safe as possible when installing these appliances.

When installing a cooker/appliance which is going on its own electrical circuit, what tests do you recommend I do on the circuit and the cooker/appliance.

I currently, do: --- Safe isolation is used when not doing any live testing.

Voltage, polarity test - if polarity fails after I swap cables in spur I then advise the customer to get an electrician.

Zline - if it fails, advise to get an electrician - do not install the appliance << should it be Zloop or is that from consumer unit?

RCD test - if it fails, do not install appliance and get electrician

Insulation test at 500v and 1 Ohm resistance < - need advice if this should be 0.5

Wire up cooker / use safe isolation

Rlow test for the earth on the appliance << I do this after it is wired in.

For appliances on a plug I use a socket and seed on the plug and do an Rlow test on the appliance

Also can you, if diversity allows it, use a duel connection spur and one tail goes to the appliance fused at the board and the other tail goes to a socket and a 13amp plug is used. for instance when installing a 8Kw electric hob and a 2.4Kw single oven.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

 
if your doing any installation of the circuit then you must do all the tests required by 7671. which if you are doing this you should already know

but it does read more as though its just connecting to existing supply? if so, your probably doing a lot more than most 'cooker installers' are of just connect and switch on. as minimum, i would test polarity, Zs and trip times

you can use a dual outlet with cooker connection & single socket - i usually fit this as standard on kitchens / rewires.

 
if your doing any installation of the circuit then you must do all the tests required by 7671. which if you are doing this you should already know

but it does read more as though its just connecting to existing supply? if so, your probably doing a lot more than most 'cooker installers' are of just connect and switch on. as minimum, i would test polarity, Zs and trip times

you can use a dual outlet with cooker connection & single socket - i usually fit this as standard on kitchens / rewires.
Thanks for your reply,

As a qualified electrician what tests would you recommend?

Cheers :)

 
You should do the full range of tests

Continuity

Insulation resistance

Polarity

Loop test

Pfc test

Rcd test

As a minimum the above tests need to be done but the results need to be interpreted correctly to ensure the ccircut complies.

Hope this helps

:)

 
but if he is just connecting to whats there, there is no need to do a full test on the circuit. he's only connecting a cooker, not doing an EICR on it. the circuit should already be done correctly, but i agree some basic tests (as i said earlier) should be done. anything other than that, or something not right, get a sparky in

 
as above but re-emphasising you need to know what the numbers actually mean. The number of times I've been called out to a failed cct that turns out to be on a TT system.... :facepalm:

 
as above but re-emphasising you need to know what the numbers actually mean. The number of times I've been called out to a failed cct that turns out to be on a TT system.... :facepalm:
been to many of them myself. then you get the odd one that when you arrive and tell them that it isnt really a problem, you then get told 'but the monkey form BG said it was illegal and dangerous, so it must be!'

 
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as above but re-emphasising you need to know what the numbers actually mean. The number of times I've been called out to a failed cct that turns out to be on a TT system.... :facepalm:
Yes had the same.................them currys delivery blokes are spot on.

 
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