What to charge?

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whazza2

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Hi All!

Just after some guidance on pricing please.

Been asked by a client if I could replace some light switches and sockets so they all look the same, at the moment they have white ones and brass ones dotted around.

Also, they would like approx. 5 light fittings taken down and not replaced and making a 2 way lighting circuit into an intermediate circuit.

Would you charge by the hour or fixed price?

If so, how much?

Im newly qualified so wouldnt charge the same as experienced electrician.

 
charge by time. either tell them itll be x per hour and approx how long it will take, or guess the hours and times by hourly rate and give them that

 
this is where potential for profit is.

if you say by the hour they will be thinking hmmm he could drag it out

where as a fixed price is comfortable for them as they have a known figure/cost.

and ultimately your fixed price should be a good estimate on your part and some for issues. you then get on with the job pronto and finish it much faster and hence ch ch ching

 
Cheers, how much would you charge per socket and switches just for replacing with new?

 
we are notorious for it binky. not sure why! i've been doing it donkey's years look at a job estimate and then holy batman where did the time go

:eek:

 
If estimating the time rerquired for this kind of thing, I allow the following:

20 mins per socket for straight swaps (there's often just one conductor that needs extending though, so have your crimping set to hand).

15 mins per switch, plus 5 mins per extra gang (don't forget your flying earth if fitting metal switches).

I generally allow 40 mins per light unit for swaps. You're not swapping, but you will have to do something with the cables you disconnect, particularly if there's a loop through at each point (again have your crimping kit to hand).

Adding the intermediate switch is something only you can assess as you've seen the job and can assess the likely cable run, type of walls etc etc.

Then add 30mins for set up and pack away.You should then have a fair indication of how long the job will take assuming it goes reasonably smoothly.

Probably fair to charge

 
If estimating the time rerquired for this kind of thing, I allow the following:20 mins per socket for straight swaps (there's often just one conductor that needs extending though, so have your crimping set to hand).

15 mins per switch, plus 5 mins per extra gang (don't forget your flying earth if fitting metal switches).

I generally allow 40 mins per light unit for swaps. You're not swapping, but you will have to do something with the cables you disconnect, particularly if there's a loop through at each point (again have your crimping kit to hand).

Adding the intermediate switch is something only you can assess as you've seen the job and can assess the likely cable run, type of walls etc etc.

Then add 30mins for set up and pack away.You should then have a fair indication of how long the job will take assuming it goes reasonably smoothly.

Probably fair to charge
 
If estimating the time rerquired for this kind of thing, I allow the following:20 mins per socket for straight swaps (there's often just one conductor that needs extending though, so have your crimping set to hand).

15 mins per switch, plus 5 mins per extra gang (don't forget your flying earth if fitting metal switches).

I generally allow 40 mins per light unit for swaps. You're not swapping, but you will have to do something with the cables you disconnect, particularly if there's a loop through at each point (again have your crimping kit to hand).

Adding the intermediate switch is something only you can assess as you've seen the job and can assess the likely cable run, type of walls etc etc.

Then add 30mins for set up and pack away.You should then have a fair indication of how long the job will take assuming it goes reasonably smoothly.

Probably fair to charge
 
If estimating the time rerquired for this kind of thing, I allow the following:20 mins per socket for straight swaps (there's often just one conductor that needs extending though, so have your crimping set to hand).

15 mins per switch, plus 5 mins per extra gang (don't forget your flying earth if fitting metal switches).

I generally allow 40 mins per light unit for swaps. You're not swapping, but you will have to do something with the cables you disconnect, particularly if there's a loop through at each point (again have your crimping kit to hand).

Adding the intermediate switch is something only you can assess as you've seen the job and can assess the likely cable run, type of walls etc etc.

Then add 30mins for set up and pack away.You should then have a fair indication of how long the job will take assuming it goes reasonably smoothly.

Probably fair to charge
 
personally if I was a paying customer I would think that a rip off.sorry, just MHO ,

I would expect a more experienced man/woman/lady/boy to not only do me a more efficient/orderly and better job, but also to be out of my home sooner so I would expect to pay him/her much more than a beginner, that is why apprentices are called so.

if you dont know what you are doing and are still calling yourself a beginner/learner then you should be charging beginners rates.

sorry if this sounds harsh, but would you pay someone who didnt know how to do this or charge for it the kind of money you expect to get for it.?
Round our way decorators charge

 
the guy that cuts your grass knows what he is doing, the guy wallpapering your hall stairs and landing is good at his job, the 'improver' connecting your living room light switch up is not competent by the actual definition and could therefore electrocute your 6year old so you feel OK giving him
 
Hi Wazza , what do you mean by take lights down and not replace ? What ever you do I'd put a price in , customers in my experience like to know how much exactly it will cost them .

cheers

Ste

 
They have 5 lights that are wall mounted that they no longer want. Is it best to crimp/put the cables in connector blocks or disconnect both ends and leave in place? (they will be plastering over so obviously better to pull cables up but not possible)

 
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