Wrong Halogen Downlight Connections?

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Strudel

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Hello,

I'm not an electrician and I'd be really grateful if one of you pros could help me out:

I recently moved from a property that I was renting.  When I first moved in to this property 4 years ago I noticed that my halogen downlights were failing to work after as short a period as 1 or 2 weeks.  I told my landlord about this and he said 'that's just the way it is with downlights' and didn't investigate the problem.  I got fed up with the expense of having to replace these downlights continuously and got to the stage of living in semi-darkness.

About 3 years into my tenancy I bumped into my landlord's assistant and told him about the downlights.  He told me that they'd had a similar problem with another property and that I probably had the wrong 'connections' (I'm not sure if this is the right word I should be using).  An electrician came around and did something to my connections and replaced the halogen bulbs which had 2 pins in them with bulbs that had 2 knobs in them that were twisted in (I believe these are called GU10).

Please would someone tell me what they think was the problem and the implications of this.  My landlord has always been very difficult and now that I've left my property I'm preparing myself for him to be unreasonable when it comes to returning my deposit.  Will this give me a card up my sleeve if he does cause me any problems?

Thanks for any help and advice.

 
You had 12V downlights initially.  These are IMHO horrible things.  They have two issues, a transformer that can go wrong, and silly little pins on the lamps and matching lampholders that are unreliable.

He replaced these with mains voltage downlights, by removing the transformer (which removes that potential unreliability) and the mains voltage downlights have much larger pins and much more robust lamp holders that tend to last a lot longer. 

 
Thanks for all those replies.

Does the fact my downlights kept failing so often imply there was a problem with the transformer?

Thanks for the replies!

Does that fact my downlights had such a short life imply there was some sort of problem with the transformer?

 
Not really, it does imply the there might have been another issue, perhaps with the lamps plug connector, though.... but it could also be that you have bought the cheapest replacement lamps that you could find, not saying that you did though ;)

 
You had 12V downlights initially.  These are IMHO horrible things.  They have two issues, a transformer that can go wrong, and silly little pins on the lamps and matching lampholders that are unreliable.

He replaced these with mains voltage downlights, by removing the transformer (which removes that potential unreliability) and the mains voltage downlights have much larger pins and much more robust lamp holders that tend to last a lot longer. 

Just  to clarify the above, GU10 lampholders (and the lamp mountings ) are more robustly made  but the life expectancy of the light bulbs is less than a 12v. Also a GU10 gives out up to 45% less light whilst consuming the same energy as a 12 dichroic.

From your OP it seems it was the lamps that were failing as "you got fed up with the expense of having to replace these downlights " &

not the connections, lampholders or transformers ?

Now you have GU10 lampholders try some LED replacements light bulbs. They will cost you more but last a long long time and run on about 1/8th of the electricity, EBay is a cheap place but dimable ones still cost a lot.

 
Just  to clarify the above, GU10 lampholders (and the lamp mountings ) are more robustly made  but the life expectancy of the light bulbs is less than a 12v. Also a GU10 gives out up to 45% less light whilst consuming the same energy as a 12 dichroic.
you sure about that slips, I was under the impression that 50w is 50w? In theory 12v should last longer as tranny protects from surges, but all halogens are prone to failing due to overheating - loft insulation being main cause.

 
If you have 12v lamps and the pins of a failed lamp are no longer shiny and bright looking then you must replace the ceramic plug as well as fitting a new lamp otherwise the new lamp will have a short lifespan.

 
you sure about that slips, I was under the impression that 50w is 50w? In theory 12v should last longer as tranny protects from surges, but all halogens are prone to failing due to overheating - loft insulation being main cause.

Yes. Just because  2 types of lamp both use the same wattage, doesn't mean they produce the same lumens

 
I think lamp life depends on the fittings. I put 4 open downlights in my daughters bedroom at least five years ago. I think I have replaced only about two lamps in that time and they are 12 volt. You certainly get a better light output from 12 volt lamps than GU10. I generally fit LED these days halogen is old hat these days.

 
Having spent time last week burrowing around like a mole under a foot of loft insulation above a 12 month old kitchen extension.  ( 3 foot headroom at best, not a lot in the corners)   I can confirm that A***** Insulation Covered Fire rated 12 V downlights don't last too well once the supplied aluminium reflector lamps are exchanged for supermarket dichroic lamps.    Absolutely no labelling etc visible from below to alert the householder to this risk of course . .

2x toasted/broken lamp bases,  1 x frittered  transformer,   Removed insulation cover from all  of them after balancing ongoing revenue stream vs fire risk vs reluctance to go up there ever again :)     Contemplated 240V LED recommendation but too expensive x12 and would still have risked someone swapping back to Halogen later.    For all that I like the light quality of 12V halogen but their time has to be limited . .

 
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